How is your Cobra's drivability ?

Hey everyone just wanted to see how everyones drivability is with their Cobra. I am just noticing some things that I really cant tell is normal or not, especially considering the parts in my car. I have noticed the following

1. My car hesitates/bogs, then drives normal, coming out of a shift in normal driving conditions. Just wondering if that could be in-part to my COMP XE-R Stage 3 cams?

2. When I start my car, its sounds like a few lifters are ticking then it goes right away, is this just because they are just not loaded yet, not sure if this is the right terminology but I mean the lifters being full of oil.

3. I swapped my supercharges oil and there was arguably about an ounce or two of fluid, and it looked like dirty booger water, after the swap the snout on my VMP got a little cooler but there is a slight rattle sound, not a knock, but a noticeable vibration. Is this normal?

4. After coming out of a shift, and slowly accelerating (normal driving) it feels like there is excess load on the engine and it slows down a little, then smooths out. Any possibilities here?

5. Anyone else have quite a bit of fluid coming out of the rear diff breather? I have a tube that comes up and then takes a u-turn down onto the axel, and there is enough "venting" that it is creating a mess.

6. I changed my TOB and Retainer sleeve and im STILL getting excess sound and vibration, is it time for a cobra bob upgrade?

Granted all this being said, I get my correct lower pulley today so ill be at 19psi and can get a 100% full tune. Maybe this could be it. I am using tr6 plugs gapped at .025 as well.

The drivability stuff sounds like a mix of the cams and tune. I wouldn't worry about those until after the tune is completely done. If still doesn't feel right then talk to your tuner.

What oil filter are you running? I believe the good ones have an anti-drainback valve to keep things like lifters from bleeding down and making noise.

How much fluid did you put in the diff? It only holds around 1.5 quarts. Anymore than that and it'll spew for a long time and make a mess. I learned that one the hard way.

I guess it depends on where the vibration is coming from. Plus the T-56's aren't exactly quiet. I don't have a ton of extra noise from mine. But I have the MGW shifter. When sitting at a light in neutral and the clutch out I can hear the gears turning. But my old T-56 did that too.

slo984now said:

What oil filter are you running? I believe the good ones have an anti-drainback valve to keep things like lifters from bleeding down and making noise.

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I am running some race dinosaur oil, which is what the engine builder suggested due to the rings (Plasma Moly Top) im using DRIVEN HR2 and a WIX filter.

Full Tilt Boogie Racing makes a differential catch can for the fluid leak issue. (Really, its just a universal can but the lines they send you are the right length. I mounted mine in my trunk on the backside of the Mach 460 amp. It will catch any extra fluid puking out of the vent on the differential cover. All you do is mount it in the trunk, run the small black hose to the breather and route it up through the body to the can. the other port on the can just vents to the atmosphere. The kit is $40 through their site.

Here's a pic of mine.

PNWSVT said:

I am running some race dinosaur oil, which is what the engine builder suggested due to the rings (Plasma Moly Top) im using DRIVEN HR2 and a WIX filter.

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I would imagine the Wix filter has the anti-drainback valve. You could always try a Ford filter just to see what happens. If it doesn't go away I would talk to your builder.

Sounds like tuning stuff. I had a hard time tuning mine after the VMP install. I was surprised some of the little bugaboos I had.

Tuning plays a huge part in how it runs especially with cams. Until you get a final tune trying to find out what may or may not be wrong is a bit difficult.

How is my driveability? Other than the standard Terminator stiff clutch, it’s perfect, but my car is 100% original down to the tires. Mods can be fun, but you have to be prepared to chase down things that aren’t quite right and your entire list “isn’t quite right.”

Mine drives perfectly....in fact I'd say better than 100% factory since it has a near effortless RXT clutch. It idles smoother running E85 than pump 93. I daily drove a 100% bonestock '04 mystichrome vert, so I do have a reference point. So, even at 700+ wheel, these cars can function beyond well. But I could definitely see doing things like cracking the motor open, running aftermarket cams could make the tuning much more difficult. These factory motors are flat out insane on E85 for the combination of power potential and retention of flawless drivability. Basically double factory HP and no ill affects putting around partial throttle.

c6zhombre said:

Mine drives perfectly....in fact I'd say better than 100% factory since it has a near effortless RXT clutch. It idles smoother running E85 than pump 93. I daily drove a 100% bonestock '04 mystichrome vert, so I do have a reference point. So, even at 700+ wheel, these cars can function beyond well. But I could definitely see doing things like cracking the motor open, running aftermarket cams could make the tuning much more difficult. These factory motors are flat out insane on E85 for the combination of power potential and retention of flawless drivability. Basically double factory HP and no ill affects putting around partial throttle.

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This!

OP, some of the quirks you're experiencing are very likely related to your cam and package and your tune. What "proper" lower pulley are you switching to? I see in your signature a 4 lb. lower.

CobraBob said:

This!

OP, some of the quirks you're experiencing are very likely related to your cam and package and your tune. What "proper" lower pulley are you switching to? I see in your signature a 4 lb. lower.

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I’m going to a OEM size, with the 4# my car made 27psi on the dyno when attempting to get it tuned so they had to abort the full tune. It’s sitting on my doorstep right now, and if that doesnt bring my boost down I have a underdrive just waiting in my garage

Big cams cause low manifold vacuum which in turn causes erratic operation of the blower bypass valve, poor throttle response, etc. Tuning can help alot but if your bypass valve never opens or it closes/flutters the moment you touch the throttle then it's going to cause driveability issues.

I bought my car with Crower Stage 4 cams and I'm currently taking them out in favor of some mild stage 1 Comp Cams. I loved the sound of big cams but I just got tired of the issues and just want to drive the car.

yeah I know I am going to be paying the price with this thing lol but damn if it aint fun to drive! Just got my pulley in my hands and now its time to finish some homework (yes homework lol) and do the install tomorrow and drop in for a tune friday!

Get it tuned really well, but also check the lash and cam degreeing.

The T56 like mentioned are not quiet. I replaced my clutch this past fall with a new pilot bearing and tob. I've only put 160 city miles on it, but I've adjusted the tob quite a bit. Trying to find the sweet spot. Initially, they can chirp depending on where you have it in contact with the pressure plate.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using the svtperformance.com mobile app

New lower pulley is on, getting a new belt today. I’ll let you know how it all goes when she’s tuned Friday

Goose17 said:

How is my driveability? Other than the standard Terminator stiff clutch, it’s perfect, but my car is 100% original down to the tires. Mods can be fun, but you have to be prepared to chase down things that aren’t quite right and your entire list “isn’t quite right.”

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My clutch is stiff as heck. If there was no back rest on the seat, I couldn't drive it due to the pressure. Sometimes a 6R80 seems like a lovely mod.

Overall, its great though relatively speaking. I just upgraded the sound system to all kicker and JL 10" sub. About 800w and it sounds perfect. Mach 460 is garbage.

Midnight_Cobra said:

My clutch is stiff as heck. If there was no back rest on the seat, I couldn't drive it due to the pressure. Sometimes a 6R80 seems like a lovely mod.

Overall, its great though relatively speaking. I just upgraded the sound system to all kicker and JL 10" sub. About 800w and it sounds perfect. Mach 460 is garbage.

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Mine was the same with an old Centerforce clutch and stock cable. I'm not a small guy and my left leg would get tired after 30 minutes of driving it was so stiff. I always worried the cable was going to snap from the force I had to apply. I replaced it with an RXT and Max Motorsports cable and the first time I pushed the pedal I thought I forgot to hook up the cable to the clutch fork it was that light...lol! Night and day difference!

Tuned?