Coilover options for my Cobra?
- Thread starter Linus Sjöberg
- Start date
I have Maximum Motorsports on my car.
Max Motorsports, UPR, Viking... there are a bunch, google it man. Just realize that the shock towers on the SN95 are not really made to support all the weight although a lot of ppl run them anyway with big 4 bolt CC plates.
If max motorsports recommends using coilovers on the sn95 (they do) then I wouldn't give it a second thought
I've got coil overs on my convertible and used max motorsports caster/camber plates as well as their strut tower brace (as they recommended).
Plenty of ppl do it like I said but... for a street car on less than perfect streets its not a great idea IMO. You can definitely run a better suspension setup with coilovers but they aren't needed for a street car that doesn't autox or circle course. The stock or Steeda K are beefy units and you can run a real nice coil spring setup that doesn't beat the shit out of the strut towers.
Also, MM is not the end all be all authority on these cars. They make fast race cars and great components... but don't be one of those ppl who swings on MM's nuts... there are a lot of them on here and other forums... They aren't the only game in town and they don't have the best K member available either. That would be the Steeda...
Also, MM is not the end all be all authority on these cars. They make fast race cars and great components... but don't be one of those ppl who swings on MM's nuts... there are a lot of them on here and other forums... They aren't the only game in town and they don't have the best K member available either. That would be the Steeda...
I've put around 15k miles on my coilover set up. The only problem I had is I didn't clearance the tab on the driver side so I get the noise once in a while. My opinion is the coilovers are worth it even on a street car. My car rides the same as it did with the H&R's, but it handles much better and is a little lower. Plus I like being able to adjust the height. Which I spent some time dialing in.
Yes, I have the MM front set up. Mostly because I purchased a parts car that had it. If BMR had come out with their k member I would have picked that up. I'm not a fan of the wheel poke, but it does work. I don't have any experience with Steeda so I'll refrain from judging it. And I have Stifflers subframe connectors as well as FTBR IRS bushings. So I think it's safe to say I'm not a fan of just one manufacturer.
Yes, I have the MM front set up. Mostly because I purchased a parts car that had it. If BMR had come out with their k member I would have picked that up. I'm not a fan of the wheel poke, but it does work. I don't have any experience with Steeda so I'll refrain from judging it. And I have Stifflers subframe connectors as well as FTBR IRS bushings. So I think it's safe to say I'm not a fan of just one manufacturer.
IMO for a street car CO are overkill.
Also you have to ask yourself, how much lower can you afford to go with CO for a street car?
As it is now, in order to clear speed bumps, I have to keep a watch on my tire pressure with H&R race springs.
I'm adding in the spacers that came with the steeda x2 kit next, for that very reason.
And If you plan to add LT later you may want to raise the car a bit..Ironically CO (or a thicker spring space) would be needed for that.
Having said that, whether you are steet or race, CO will make probably make your handling better,
If you do go MM CO, I would make the front to rear spring difference only 100# and not the 150# that MM often recommends..
Also, keep all your parts until you get it all sorted out..don't declare mission accomplished and sell your H&R springs too soon.
Also you have to ask yourself, how much lower can you afford to go with CO for a street car?
As it is now, in order to clear speed bumps, I have to keep a watch on my tire pressure with H&R race springs.
I'm adding in the spacers that came with the steeda x2 kit next, for that very reason.
And If you plan to add LT later you may want to raise the car a bit..Ironically CO (or a thicker spring space) would be needed for that.
Having said that, whether you are steet or race, CO will make probably make your handling better,
If you do go MM CO, I would make the front to rear spring difference only 100# and not the 150# that MM often recommends..
Also, keep all your parts until you get it all sorted out..don't declare mission accomplished and sell your H&R springs too soon.
That's exactly how I feel about it. I'm just doing Steeda Sport springs, BMR A arms with the X2 style balljoints, Tokico D specs and offset rack bushings. For ppl who want aftermarket K members there are a few tubulars like the UPR that have spring perches. The Steeda is every bit as good as the MM K without the oil filter clearance issues and that one can use perches too, or be run in a coilover setup plus multiple steering rack and A-Arm mounting points.
I mean I know some ppl have REALLY good roads and few if any speed bumps. Ppl from Florida often say they have roads that are super smooth. I dunno. I lived in the Northeast all my life and now stationed in Spain. I would not want to be relying on a thin sheetmetal shock tower that wasn't designed for coilovers on some of these roads here or back home. But that's just me.
I mean I know some ppl have REALLY good roads and few if any speed bumps. Ppl from Florida often say they have roads that are super smooth. I dunno. I lived in the Northeast all my life and now stationed in Spain. I would not want to be relying on a thin sheetmetal shock tower that wasn't designed for coilovers on some of these roads here or back home. But that's just me.
I'm running Eibach springs with stock exhaust and k-member. I have to really crawl over most speed bumps because either my sub-frames or mufflers hit depending on how straight the speed bump is and how perpendicular I am to the speed bump. I really want to add LTs but am concerned about the clearance.
I am running FRPP C springs with top and bottom poly isos. I had to add the spacer in that came with my Steeda X2 ball joints. Apparently driveways and speed humps (not bumps) in my area require the extra height. I drug my H pipe over everything. I just needed that extra 1/4-1/2".
I'm not as low as I would like the car to be, but the streets determine the hight.
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You get what you pay for with the KW kit though.
However, which H&R spring is it? (Race? Sport? Super Sport?)
If you have the spring isolators (rubber pads on the ends of the springs), you can remove those and reinstall the spring and the car will sit lower.
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