False knock solved, and new winter build questions

Hey All,

I'm sure some of you followed a couple of my past threads about a false knock issue i was dealing with for roughly 2 years. The knock would only show up on hard shifts and when flooring the throttle.

So a little over a month ago i was doing a pull and the front of the crankshaft broke off. So i'm assuming the false knock all this time was the crankshaft slowing coming apart or something. Must say it was pretty crazy when it snapped and sent the balancer bouncing around under the hood.

So i'm in need of a new motor, and i'm thinking the MMR 1000 longblock is my best option.

I have a procharger d1 w/ wastegate setup, 93oct / meth, thinking aiming for around 700rwhp for now..

Few questions -
* What compression would you guys go with?
* What boost should i be aiming for?
* I have the stock manifold now, i'm assuming the boss intake would be better?
* I need to stick with shorty headers, which ones / size would you guys use?

MMR 1000 Long block - There are a lot of potential upgrades for it on their site. As i said i'm aiming around 700rwhp for now, i doubt i'd ever want more than 800 in the future as it's a street car and those i know who have over 800rwhp are always spinning..

Having said that, which engine upgrades would you all recommend? I'd like some advice before i call and order the engine.

Huge thanks for any guidance!
Jesse.

Unless you plan on throwing a ton of boost at the car, I’d leave the compression at 11:1. Talk to your tuner of course, but if they are good, they’ll probably say the same thing.

I stuck with shorties and used the Kooks ones.

As for upgrades, go with as many ARP bolts as you possibly can. Make sure you get a billet OPG and crank sprocket.

Not the first time i've heard that with the procharger. They add a lot more stress on the crank snout and tend to do what happened to you. A boss intake is best for a boosted application. You have options out there for a built motor. I would take a look at MPR and TKM for an engine build also but get with your tuner and see what he suggest.

if 7-800rwhp is all you want go with a gen short block from ford-15-17 replacement there under 2100 with shipping and tax after the core- I hope your crank breaking wasn't as catastrophic as mine was- crank broke- send timing component to a tissy- broke both heads at the cam towers broke two cams- timing chains- timing cover- oil pan- radiator- had about 11k with labor in it- and the short block was 2k- but gen 2 heads that I wanted to upgrade to were un available so I had to buy a set of 13 boss for 3200$ also destroy crank pulley and ati dampener