Terminator Engine Blocks

comprepsvo

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Ok, need some help guys. On the cast iron 03-04 blocks, what is the maximum clean up of the bores? ON the aluminum blocks, can you clean the bores up and if so what is the maximum? If you had a choice which block would you buy if you had to buy a new block for a Terminator motor? What heads are best and what do I look for? thanks in advance.

Ben
 

GodStang

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This is such an open ended questions and depends on your goals. Also which Aluminum block are you talking about? Teksid, WAP, Aluminator? Heads again depends on $$$ and your goal. Are you sticking with the 03-04 casting heads or do you want the best?
 

GodStang

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stock heads, goal is 500+ to the wheels. Looking for reliability for both block and heads

If that is your goal then I would stick with the stock iron block. .020" is what most max out bore at. IF you did want Aluminum for the weight savings then Teksid or Wap are great options. As far as heads Jan 05 heads and later they have all the cooling passage updates, oil passage updates, 9 thread spark plug holes.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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just rember going 20 over leaves you basically zero room to clean it up if something goes wrong
 

GodStang

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Thanks GodStang, is there a certain marking for the heads you mentioned? Easy identifier?

Yes on the side of the head they have the part number stamped:

7C1AE628-1568-4F16-9DB6-2E58D69369B7.jpeg
 
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roy_1031

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These engines are a lot stouter than you think. A pulley and intake exhaust and of course a tune will have you knocking on 500rwhp. That’s with the factory bore, factory 4 thread heads and factory compression. Add a twin screw, injectors and some fuel pumps to the mix and you’re at 600. E85.... ha 700+


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Quick Strike

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^ that's what mine is sans the crank. My original forged crank was fine with just a polish. Might as well do ARP studs and bolts while you are in there. Then billet oil pump gears are nice and ............ it is easy to get carried away with while you are at its.
 

roy_1031

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So would you guys, run a block that has been cleaned up 0.20 on the bore with new pistons and crank, all forged?

I’d rock it all day. 020” doesn’t leave any room to rebuild down the road if you need to bore again but at the point if you ever need to rebuild, step up to an aluminum block shave some weight off the nose as well.


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Shadow Grey 03

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If I was doing it from the jump, I'd go 0.010 over first so I would have options later. I wouldnt reject a 0.020 motor if it was already done. I'd look for other options first though. That's just my opinion though.
 

SlowSVT

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So would you guys, run a block that has been cleaned up 0.20 on the bore with new pistons and crank, all forged?

That's what I would do. Iron blocks have some advantages over aluminum. If .010" cleans-up the cylinders take that route and hone for .0025 - .0035" clearance. If not go to .020". The bottom-ends on the Terminator motors are almost indestructible you won't due much better. CP or Gibtec are a good choice for pistons but expensive. Manley are a good lower cost alternative.
 

comprepsvo

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So how about this question for you guys, and I appreciate all of your input, I really do. Ford has a 5.2L cast iron block for the terminator replacements. Has anyone built one of these up for a supercharged, 4 valve head application? Ford says it will take the 4 valve head and looks like a Termi block, hope you all have some info on this as a possible substitute. With more CI, and with proper compression ratio, it should make more HP also, correct?
 

SlowSVT

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a 5.2 cast iron mod motor block? That would be news to me. Are you looking at a Boss 5.0 mod motor block which has a 3.700" bore? If I was looking for a new block I would consider a used 3V 4.6 aluminum block
 

roy_1031

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The 3V block is considered one of the strongest aluminum blocks called the aluminator if I’m not mistaken.


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