01 twin turbo

MrYellowSVT · Dec 31, 2018

I'm thinking about doing a twin turbo build on my car. I want your thoughts and hopefully help

I spun a rod bearing in my car so I have seen it as a reason to rebuild my bottom in going with forged pistons rods and crank I know I have to have to handle power.

I'm not sure on what kit of forged internals to get or to piece the rods pistons and crank together from different brands

I'm not sure what's a good compression ratio to run was thinking 8.3 to 1 or in the 8s but want your opinion want to add boost trying to get 700-900hps if possible

Have you done a build if so send some pictures and what you got.

I talking to a guy that sales twin turbo on3 kits said he could get me good price for a complete kit not sure what size turbo to run and what I would need in addition to this kit. Like fuel pump injectors etc..

Basically asking if you guys could help build my list. This will be a daily driver but a weekend warrior drag car.

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9397SVTs · Dec 31, 2018

First things first. What is your budget?

52merc · Dec 31, 2018

Assuming your 01 is fairly stock, you will also need to upgrade clutch, transmission, and axles. You also need to upgrade the IRS if you haven't already done this, including the reinforced rear cover setup for the diff housing. I would also look at upgrading brakes as this should be done with any major power increase.

Sounds like a neat project. Hope you have lots of money. I think this will be very expensive and, you probably already know this, you'll never get that money back out of the car if you sell it.

I like the colour of your car.

01yellercobra · Dec 31, 2018

What kind of fuel are you planning on using? You'll need race gas or E85 to see 900.

700-900hp in a daily is hard. Mine was well north of 600 as a daily. It was fun, but you have to worry about things breaking and making it to work the next day. If you really want something that beastly look into a cheap daily before tearing this apart. If you already have a daily then ignore this paragraph. I did drive mine for a long time with the stock 3650 and only upgraded cradle and diff bushings in the IRS. Oh, and the Billetflow brace. But it never saw the track with that set up. I went to a T-56 later on and ran DSS level 5 halfshafts.

Get the engine apart first. Find out what's damaged and what isn't. If your crank and block are still good you're ahead of the game. Manley or Oliver rods would be your choices. A lot of guys use Manley with no issues. I ran Diamond pistons in a previous engine with no problems. But Gibtec seems to be coming up in the mod world. When it's time for me to rebuild my other engine I'll probably give Gibtec a call. As for compression, that's way too low. Go with a minimum of 9:1. Otherwise the engine will be a dog out of boost. I ran 9.5 on my last engine that was built for a centri set up.

My opinion on turbo kits is if you really want a turbo drop the coin on a custom set up. Start with something like the CG Fab hot side and build from there. I looked into a turbo set up before going to the F1A. It seemed every kit ends up needing mods and upgraded parts before it ends up working the way it should. I helped a buddy install a Hellion kit on his 97 GT. It came off a 97 or 98 and we still had to move and modify things to make it work. Thankfully it already had an upgraded wastegate and BOV. But for your goals custom would really be best. And I'd skip the twin set up. You can make the same power with one. Which means less piping and fewer headaches. Oh, and don't forget any turbo kit requires a whole new front suspension.

Lastly, what's your mechanical skill level at? If you're planning on dropping the car off somewhere and having the work done you're looking at an easy $20k to have it done right. If you can pull the engine and install some parts you'll save money. The reason I ask is the questions you're asking are pretty basic and broad. You might need to do some more research before jumping in.

KEVINS · Dec 31, 2018

Is this a 2V motor or 4V motor? You need heads that FLOW. If this is a 2Vmotor then either port some PI heads or buy TFS heads.

From experience 700-900hp is easy and perfectly streetable as a daily driver if you have custom cams made (2V motor) but you have to plan for every detail to make sure you have a ROCK SOLID combo. Remember 700hp is extremely brutal on parts and 900hp is even worse. When buying parts and planning the build buy them for a car making 1000hp. If you skimp on them you'll spend more $$ replacing broken parts and in the end you WILL end up with the best/strongest parts that you should have purchased the first time around.

-Either run E85 or better yet make it a flex-fuel car so you can run anything you want, this is what I did but requires standalone computer.
-Compression should be 9:1 to 9.5:1. Gibtec's are real nice pistons but there are others.
-I love my 4R70 (no expense spared!), Precision multi-disc converter (no expense spared) and Quick4 controller.
-I made my own turbo system but On3 will get you started just plan on things not fitting and have to re-fab up parts just in case the kit doesn't fit quite right...I have NO experience with them.
-I preferred to have custom turbos made for my combo and they were cheaper than off the shelf units.
-Injector size will vary depending on what fuel you run. I need 160's for the E85 and they run like stock even with 91oct.
-I run three 340 fuel pumps from On3 along with their fuel hat for the gas tank, but only use one pump for driving around then the other two are turned on at 7psi.
-I run 1/2" feed line and 1/2" return line.
-Duel Widebands, one for each turbo/bank.

Kevin
My build with pics:
Project BALROG

ShootyMCstabby · Dec 31, 2018

Even if you have dealer accounts with everybody and their moms and doing 75% of the work your self. Still probably looking at 20K. Blood, sweat, and a handful of emotions.

You can find a lot of car right now for 20k-25k cash. That would cost you 40K plus to build. Just something to think about.

MrYellowSVT · Jan 1, 2019

slo984now said:
What kind of fuel are you planning on using? You'll need race gas or E85 to see 900.

700-900hp in a daily is hard. Mine was well north of 600 as a daily. It was fun, but you have to worry about things breaking and making it to work the next day. If you really want something that beastly look into a cheap daily before tearing this apart. If you already have a daily then ignore this paragraph. I did drive mine for a long time with the stock 3650 and only upgraded cradle and diff bushings in the IRS. Oh, and the Billetflow brace. But it never saw the track with that set up. I went to a T-56 later on and ran DSS level 5 halfshafts.

Get the engine apart first. Find out what's damaged and what isn't. If your crank and block are still good you're ahead of the game. Manley or Oliver rods would be your choices. A lot of guys use Manley with no issues. I ran Diamond pistons in a previous engine with no problems. But Gibtec seems to be coming up in the mod world. When it's time for me to rebuild my other engine I'll probably give Gibtec a call. As for compression, that's way too low. Go with a minimum of 9:1. Otherwise the engine will be a dog out of boost. I ran 9.5 on my last engine that was built for a centri set up.

My opinion on turbo kits is if you really want a turbo drop the coin on a custom set up. Start with something like the CG Fab hot side and build from there. I looked into a turbo set up before going to the F1A. It seemed every kit ends up needing mods and upgraded parts before it ends up working the way it should. I helped a buddy install a Hellion kit on his 97 GT. It came off a 97 or 98 and we still had to move and modify things to make it work. Thankfully it already had an upgraded wastegate and BOV. But for your goals custom would really be best. And I'd skip the twin set up. You can make the same power with one. Which means less piping and fewer headaches. Oh, and don't forget any turbo kit requires a whole new front suspension.

Lastly, what's your mechanical skill level at? If you're planning on dropping the car off somewhere and having the work done you're looking at an easy $20k to have it done right. If you can pull the engine and install some parts you'll save money. The reason I ask is the questions you're asking are pretty basic and broad. You might need to do some more research before jumping in.

I'm highly mechanically inclined. Have degree in automotive and chassis fabrication just haven't dont alot and not to much info I can find on the 4v builds maybe I'm not looking in the right spot. My father is also going to be helping as a son father project he's built classic cars for 35+ years. I already pulled the engine its spun 1 and 5th rod bearing but everything is stock internals and won't handle any power. Why I want some opinion on parts. I appreciate the long write up and hopefully we can build this up how I plan. I didn't think about getting a cheap beater car to drive as a daily that's a good idea

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KEVINS · Jan 1, 2019

You're on the wrong website for good 4v build up articles. Try these:

Building a new engine! Going Teksid!

Aluminator Gibtec Build

At the above website do a search for Teksid and all kinds of buildup threads appear.

ks

biminiLX · Jan 1, 2019

What fuel?
That helps you answer the compression question.
These 4V DOHC Mod Motors like compression and rpm to make up for their small size.
The replacement for displacement is boost.

-J

01yellercobra · Jan 1, 2019

MrYellowSVT said:
I'm highly mechanically inclined. Have degree in automotive and chassis fabrication just haven't dont alot and not to much info I can find on the 4v builds maybe I'm not looking in the right spot. My father is also going to be helping as a son father project he's built classic cars for 35+ years. I already pulled the engine its spun 1 and 5th rod bearing but everything is stock internals and won't handle any power. Why I want some opinion on parts. I appreciate the long write up and hopefully we can build this up how I plan. I didn't think about getting a cheap beater car to drive as a daily that's a good idea

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Stock block and crank will handle your power goals with ease. Thats why I said if they're good you're ahead of the game. Upgrade rods and pistons and you're good. The 4V heads flow well enough in stock form. Clean up and a valve job if needed. Even the stock cams will get you where you want to be.

MrYellowSVT · Jan 1, 2019

slo984now said:
Stock block and crank will handle your power goals with ease. Thats why I said if they're good you're ahead of the game. Upgrade rods and pistons and you're good. The 4V heads flow well enough in stock form. Clean up and a valve job if needed. Even the stock cams will get you where you want to be.

Oh ya I forgot the crank is trashed tomich filled away from the bearing

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scottydsntknow · Jan 4, 2019

Then another stock Kellog crank, you can get them for $400 shipped on here or other sites. Molnar power adder rods, Diamond and Gibtec make great pistons as do others. Stock 99/01 heads are fine, full rebuild and valvejob, the 01s mostly had WAP blocks, some had Teksids, either block is fine, stock cams can get you there, aftermarket cams will be better... Trans will need to come out and I'd put a 6R80 in it... if you are staying with the 3650 get a built one from Stan at Pro Force Performance. IRS will need a full going through and axles which will be about $2k total if you get Termi axles, closer to $3k if you go with DSS shafts... suspension, fuel, a lot of other shit. Plus the cost of the power adder you will be into it for $20k+ plus the cost of the car.

If you are dead set on keeping this car and going through it then make sure you do a lot of reading, a lot of research, talk to ppl locally who have big power cars if you can and don't run into anything or buy cheap parts.

The other option and one I would think real long and hard on is to just fix the engine and drop it back in as is and then sell the car and put that $20-$30k plus the money you get from the sale of the car towards something newer that is already at the power you want and reliable. Fixing the engine would be as simple as a new crank/bearings and drop it back in. Lots of options in the mid $20k-$40k range at the power you want already done from 07+ GT500s with upgraded blowers, 11+ GTs with power adders or buy a new 2019 GT with a warranty, do exhaust/tune/slicks and run 10s.

03 Cobra DSG · Jan 4, 2019

There’s a lot of good points being made here you will never get that money back, however if this is more of a learning experience and father son building bonding time then maybe the money spent is worth it. It’s a good feeling when people ask you about your car and you can say you built it, or you and your dad built it.

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01 twin turbo

MrYellowSVT

New Member

9397SVTs

Well-Known Member

52merc

Well-Known Member

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now

KEVINS

Well-Known Member

ShootyMCstabby

Brownie Hound.

MrYellowSVT

New Member

KEVINS

Well-Known Member

biminiLX

never stock

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now

MrYellowSVT

New Member

scottydsntknow

Well-Known Member

03 Cobra DSG

Well-Known Member

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