I’m stumped, replaced 2 thermostats and each time it seems the problem resolves for a bit. I recently replaced the thermostat with the OEM and followed the burping guidelines. Car drives well and doesn’t overheat. I double checked it again today after doing a couple of WOT runs and I can see water dripping from the cap as if pressures are high inside the tank. Temp is normal, heater blows hot air. I’m stumped. I did a leak down test recently and no signs of a blow head gasket. I watched the car cool down and heard air escaping from the cap as if was burping and the water level dropped there after. No idea what to do at this point.
Radiator reservoir overflow problems
- Thread starter VNMUS03
- Start date
How old is the radiator cap? Are you still using the plastic reservoir? If so has the engine ever over heated with that reservoir?
Id vote for bad cap or bad tank first
has radiator been replaced?
Change the cap.
I'm not sure if a leak down test will register the same results as testing for the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant, but my understanding is that that's something you need to rule out based on the symptoms you've described.
Sorry, that’s the test I meant to say. Not a leak down test. It didn’t indicate it had gasses in the coolant so I ruled it out.
Radiator is still the original one. What’s a good indicator of a bad radiator?
I just ordered a new cap. Hope that’s the prob
Hopefully it works out for you brother and it's cheap so it's worth a shot.
when i went through this.
once car got hot it would never cool down.
when sitting at idle. temps would just climb. 210 plus. ac on it would pass 230 and blow out cap.
if i ran garden hose over radiator. temps would fall like a rock.
replaced to sve 3 core. now 170s/180s in the 100plus heat
I would hook something up to see your actual coolant temps, not just the dummy gauge on the dash to help verify whats going on. I know you can have a wide swing of temps before itll move
i had to move abs bracket.
intercooler tank moves back i used large washers to hold.
ac line i had to lean on just to not touch.
i have blow coolant many times at cap. still have original cap in place
i went thru lmr.
there maybe more options now.
if you dont have a scanner to read temps. the instrument cluster has diagnostic mode. and can set odometer to temps.
the stock gage. straight up. is where mine sits. it will start to move at 228deg. which is already overheating in my book
Ive got an aeroforce so I see actual temps. Rides at 190-195 all the time even after a few hard pulls.
Yeah you definitely want a real temp gauge. I use an aeroforce also. But the stock gauge reads right in the middle from like 160-240 degrees. So pretty much useless.
I think I found the problem. This morning on the way to work the heater never actually blew hot air. The drive to work is short enough to where the car reached its optimal temp according to the shitty stock temp gage.
That would indicate a bad water pump right?!?
That would indicate a bad water pump right?!?
I have an aftermarket expansion tank. I was getting leaks after normal driving. I bought new caps, gaskets, etc. I figured out it was by overfilled by 6-8oz. The tank had no fill line.
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Try burping the system again. You may have trapped air.
Another thing to check... make sure your thermostat is not installed backwards.
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