Going to order new wheels next week for my 14. I plan to run MP 4S 295/35/20 for general duty and Mickey E/T Street SS 305/35/20 for playing. Car is lowered with BMR performance springs.
10.5 or 11" rear wheels for GT500?
- Thread starter Thabeast
- Start date
I run 325/30r20 on 20x11 +56 with zero issues with my BMR drag springs. You'll probably want the bumpstop relocation brackets if you don't have those already.
Thanks for your reply, which tire are you running in 325/30/20?
11" and 315/35/20 NT05R for normal street use, yes you'll live in the rain, just drive smart and how often do you drive in rain anyway?
If really against DRs, the Toyo R888R comes in 305/35/20 I believe.
For fun you'll want 18" out back, at your power level you need all the help you can get, those MT S/S aren't enough.
-J
If really against DRs, the Toyo R888R comes in 305/35/20 I believe.
For fun you'll want 18" out back, at your power level you need all the help you can get, those MT S/S aren't enough.
-J
Michelin pilot sport cup 2.
Also, I agree with Bimini. Get some 17s or 18s to put that power down.
Nice wide tires i have a 2014 GT500. I have 295/35/20 up front 315/35/20 in the back. I'm running micheMic PS4. They are great tires. I roll race. Do those 325s stick out allot in the back?
^ I have very similar setup.
Front - 20x10 et38, 295/35/20 Continental Extreme Contact Sports
Rear - 20x11 et58, 315/35/20 Continental Extreme Contact Sports
I did remove my bump stops just to be safe but you could probably get by without doing this. Also really happy with the Conti ECS, from what I've been told the sidewalls have a little more flex than a MPSS would but that's cool since I DD this on city roads. Traction is still really good and holds the power as well as any non-DR tire would.
Signature Wheels does custom offset/sizes to fit any application, drop @50 Deep a line if you want more info.
Front - 20x10 et38, 295/35/20 Continental Extreme Contact Sports
Rear - 20x11 et58, 315/35/20 Continental Extreme Contact Sports
I did remove my bump stops just to be safe but you could probably get by without doing this. Also really happy with the Conti ECS, from what I've been told the sidewalls have a little more flex than a MPSS would but that's cool since I DD this on city roads. Traction is still really good and holds the power as well as any non-DR tire would.
Signature Wheels does custom offset/sizes to fit any application, drop @50 Deep a line if you want more info.
I have sve gt7 rims from lmr.20x10 front, and 20x11 back
Also for those wondering about 325's here is a great write-up @Catmonkey did on 315's Vs 325's, I found it very informative.
Making clearance for wide tires
I would have gone with 325's but Dunlop SPSM GT's and MP Cup 2's are the only compounds offered. SPSM GT are stupid expensive at $500 a tire and Cup 2's only last about 10k miles which isn't long enough for me.
Making clearance for wide tires
I would have gone with 325's but Dunlop SPSM GT's and MP Cup 2's are the only compounds offered. SPSM GT are stupid expensive at $500 a tire and Cup 2's only last about 10k miles which isn't long enough for me.
I think I will put 325s out back next time
FWIW, Nitto also has a 325/30-20 in its R888R tire. It has an even softer compound than the SC2s and probably not as wide at the cross section. I hear they're noisier than the SC2s. Michelin adds rubber around the rim edge to protect the wheel, but it adds girth (note in photo below).
To run a 315 or a 325, I strongly suggest removing the bump stop bracket. I purchased some True Forged 3-piece wheels that have a +57mm offset in a 20 x 11. I picked them up with 295/35-20 MPSS mounted on them and that size works with that offset. I would consider it a minimum offset for anything wider. Offset is critical when it comes to mounting wider rubber. You really don't want your fender coming down on the tire at speed. It will burn the paint and probably doesn't do the tire any good. I got some 1/2" wider hoops for the inside of the wheel to make it 20 x 11.5 and get back to my offset of +63mm. I'm still in the process of getting the car back in action, but fighting a few problems. The rims and tires will be the last thing I tackle. I'm also going to take the inner hoops from the rear and mount them on the front to end up with 20 x 10s. Problem is not enough offset is your're done. Only way to remedy rubbing is get a smaller tire. Too much offset and you can use a wheel spacer to move the wheel out.
This is an interesting shot of the both the 295/35-20 and 325/30-20, both mounted on 20 x 11 wheels. The 295 is just as wide as the 325 near the rim, but tapers away from what would be the fender lip clearance. That's one reason I decided to go wider to get more offset and not have a potential rubbing issue with the edge of the fender lip. Can't say how will this is going to work out, but we'll see. I'd probably wear these out first and then try the R888R.
Having run 315/35-20s, these are really tall tires at 28.8". While there are not that many 315/30-20s available, I think it's a much more reasonable diameter. This shot shows the difference in height between the 325/30-20 and the 315-35-20.
The 325/30-20 is just a hair shorter than the stock SVT PP tire (265/35-20). Because of it's height, I believe that had more to do with my rubbing issues, but we'll soon see about that as well. I really think it's the limit for this wheel well.
To run a 315 or a 325, I strongly suggest removing the bump stop bracket. I purchased some True Forged 3-piece wheels that have a +57mm offset in a 20 x 11. I picked them up with 295/35-20 MPSS mounted on them and that size works with that offset. I would consider it a minimum offset for anything wider. Offset is critical when it comes to mounting wider rubber. You really don't want your fender coming down on the tire at speed. It will burn the paint and probably doesn't do the tire any good. I got some 1/2" wider hoops for the inside of the wheel to make it 20 x 11.5 and get back to my offset of +63mm. I'm still in the process of getting the car back in action, but fighting a few problems. The rims and tires will be the last thing I tackle. I'm also going to take the inner hoops from the rear and mount them on the front to end up with 20 x 10s. Problem is not enough offset is your're done. Only way to remedy rubbing is get a smaller tire. Too much offset and you can use a wheel spacer to move the wheel out.
This is an interesting shot of the both the 295/35-20 and 325/30-20, both mounted on 20 x 11 wheels. The 295 is just as wide as the 325 near the rim, but tapers away from what would be the fender lip clearance. That's one reason I decided to go wider to get more offset and not have a potential rubbing issue with the edge of the fender lip. Can't say how will this is going to work out, but we'll see. I'd probably wear these out first and then try the R888R.
Having run 315/35-20s, these are really tall tires at 28.8". While there are not that many 315/30-20s available, I think it's a much more reasonable diameter. This shot shows the difference in height between the 325/30-20 and the 315-35-20.
The 325/30-20 is just a hair shorter than the stock SVT PP tire (265/35-20). Because of it's height, I believe that had more to do with my rubbing issues, but we'll soon see about that as well. I really think it's the limit for this wheel well.
Thanks
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