Resonator delete on gt350

galaxy

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Has anyone done a dyno before and after resonator delete? I’m guessing for you guys that have done it, the butt dyno probably didn’t reveal any net change good or bad?
 

Tob

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Pericak commented when the car was introduced that the R had a slight bump due to the reduced restriction but that the gain was insignificant such that there wasn't additional certification work done or necessary.
 

TaraFirma

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After seeing the stock R exhaust and a regular GT 350 exhaust, it looks like they are all made like the R exhaust is, then the pipes are cut in the resonators are added for the non R GT 350 some time before they are put on the car.
The welds on my resonators look like they were done by hand.
 

GT Premi

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Has anyone done a dyno before and after resonator delete? I’m guessing for you guys that have done it, the butt dyno probably didn’t reveal any net change good or bad?

As Tob referenced, Dave Pericak stated that the R has a slight HP bump over the non-R, but nothing worth noting. If you happen to be curious about an intake/exhaust/tune setup on a non-R, checkout Youtube channel Obsessed Garage. He did before and after dyno videos. I believe he said he picked up 30 or 40 HP at the wheels. That's a big jump considering the minimal mods.
 

galaxy

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Sometimes (actually, 100% of the time for me), it’s more about doing it myself than any other factor. Money/cost is usually at the bottom of the list of factors on reasons to do/not do something.
 

ANGREY

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As Tob referenced, Dave Pericak stated that the R has a slight HP bump over the non-R, but nothing worth noting. If you happen to be curious about an intake/exhaust/tune setup on a non-R, checkout Youtube channel Obsessed Garage. He did before and after dyno videos. I believe he said he picked up 30 or 40 HP at the wheels. That's a big jump considering the minimal mods.

It's not an apples/apples comparison. There's a string on another forum where a guy did full on apples/apples, as in, mod component, tune, mod component, tune.

What we find is what you'd expect. Most (an overwhelming majority) of the power gains are from the cat delete and the tune. Headers help a little and the CAI is largely snake oil.

Things like long tubes will yield bigger benefits under forced induction, but N/A, the factory shorties aren't all that bad or restrictive for the HP levels and flow rates at the n/a levels involved here.

Bottom line for anyone reading this, if you're gonna do headers or resonator deletes, the impact is going to be small to negligible. You're doing it more for the sound.

I have 2" primaries and Lund actually told me he cans the same tune for 2" vs. 1-7/8" primaries because it's negligible at n/a levels.

If you want to wring out the most power for $ spent, simply throw the cats in the dumpster and get a custom tune (or even better an E-85 tune, which will bump about 20-30hp more).

If you don't insist on having the n-guage, you can probably get a cat delete and a resonator delete done (tastefully) for less than $500 and the tune will cost you around $400 (if you insist on having a shop install it for you). If you want the n-gauge + tune, and you can still find some specials being offered you can get it for around $800.
 

JimT

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It's not an apples/apples comparison. There's a string on another forum where a guy did full on apples/apples, as in, mod component, tune, mod component, tune.

What we find is what you'd expect. Most (an overwhelming majority) of the power gains are from the cat delete and the tune. Headers help a little and the CAI is largely snake oil.

Things like long tubes will yield bigger benefits under forced induction, but N/A, the factory shorties aren't all that bad or restrictive for the HP levels and flow rates at the n/a levels involved here.

Bottom line for anyone reading this, if you're gonna do headers or resonator deletes, the impact is going to be small to negligible. You're doing it more for the sound.

I have 2" primaries and Lund actually told me he cans the same tune for 2" vs. 1-7/8" primaries because it's negligible at n/a levels.

If you want to wring out the most power for $ spent, simply throw the cats in the dumpster and get a custom tune (or even better an E-85 tune, which will bump about 20-30hp more).

If you don't insist on having the n-guage, you can probably get a cat delete and a resonator delete done (tastefully) for less than $500 and the tune will cost you around $400 (if you insist on having a shop install it for you). If you want the n-gauge + tune, and you can still find some specials being offered you can get it for around $800.

A resonator delete isn’t going to do anything (HP+) that can be measured on a Dyno. It’s for the sound, not performance. The GT350 is a balanced car. It doesn’t need excessive HP to do it’s job, it takes HP, Handling and well placed tweets to make this car. I’ll take on any ‘Judge’ in a race and beat him on the first turn! Don’t see many Dodges at road course tracks...

Enjoy the car, Balance is key.


Sent from my iPad using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

galaxy

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A resonator delete isn’t going to do anything (HP+) that can be measured on a Dyno. It’s for the sound, not performance. The GT350 is a balanced car. It doesn’t need excessive HP to do it’s job, it takes HP, Handling and well placed tweets to make this car. I’ll take on any ‘Judge’ in a race and beat him on the first turn! Don’t see many Dodges at road course tracks...

Enjoy the car, Balance is key.


Sent from my iPad using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Agreed! 100%. Im doing mine for the sound. My main question about the dyno wasn’t about expecting gains, but also ensuring you don’t lose anything either.

I’d like to have a dollar for every jackass in a blown GT said “I’ll still blow your doors off” (which the number of jackasses around this car has actually been surprising)...to which I respond “oh yea? Well cool...please join me on my next track day. I’ll even pay your registration and we’ll see how that turns out for ya”. To which the response is typically “oh...uummm...welll aaahhhh...uummm....bla bla bla...my cars not made for that...bla bla bla...back pedal, back pedal”.
 

galaxy

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I got the Shifteck. You have to make two cuts (one in each pipe) just behind the rear weld of the resonators. Apparently the x pipe is not welded on the front of it where the clamps are. Just unbolts.
 

jvandy50

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What are you going with? The R assembly or Shifteck?

Also, the Shifteck says “easy bolt on” but don’t you need to cut the resonators out??
bolts right up after you sawzall it off :)
 

Creedog

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Has anyone gone the route of adding the OEM GT350R pipes to their GT350? Tasca has them their website. I’m not sure which one is correct but I believe it is the following. Of course it is way more expensive than just buying/cutting for the mid-pipe and appears it is the entire pipe back to the mufflers.

Muffler Assembly - Ford (FR3Z-5230-V) | TascaParts

Just curious...
The picture shows the resonators on the R version but probably it is the standard picture used for both.
 

Creedog

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People are getting custom cut pipes to delete the resonators. That's why a GT350 with resonator deletes clamped/welded in still don't sound quite the same as the GT350R. The "foreign" pipes and clamps/welds actually attenuate the sound a little bit. If you want the full R sound, get the full R exhaust.

Has anyone here done this for their GT350? The OEM “R Catback” is less expensive than most of the active exhaust systems available. It provides a stock GT350 sound but louder from YouTube videos I have heard. And it appears no cutting is needed. This is the direction I am leaning for my GT350. I just want to know if someone has pulled the trigger and their impressions of the change.
 

Tob

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Your quote of GT Premi is one that simply isn't accurate. Aside from the resonators, the two systems are 100% identical. If you cut the resonators out and weld in two identical lengths of 2.75" SS 409 tubing you will have, in effect, an exact copy of the factory GT350R cat back system (assuming you weld the factory heat shields in place).

It simply doesn't make sense to purchase a new R system when you are so close as it is.
 

Creedog

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I certainly understand they are very similar aside from the resonators. I do not want to cut my stock system!!! Others do not have a problem with it and that’s fine for them. To my ear, I can tell a difference, however slightly, the cut out resonator delete aftermarket x-pipes and the stock GT350R pipe. Buying this car did not “make sense” to many of my friends, neighbors and family members given how well my previous mustang was set up. But I have always wanted a Shelby since I was little kid back in the late ‘70’s. When I first saw one, I can still remember the feeling of how cool it was and it was a rust bucket getting ready to be restored.
I find it hard to believe that I am the only one wanting to do this. But if I am, then so be it and I’ll take the plunge.
 

Tob

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Any "difference" between a stock GT350R system and a regular GT350 system done as I mentioned previously is mere self fulfilling prophecy. Aftermarket X sections may deviate but not systems that retain the stock X section.

I have seen one or two (on different forums) start off on the same path that in the end did nothing.

Out of curiosity, are you keeping the rest of the car 100% stock?
 

ANGREY

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I certainly understand they are very similar aside from the resonators. I do not want to cut my stock system!!! Others do not have a problem with it and that’s fine for them. To my ear, I can tell a difference, however slightly, the cut out resonator delete aftermarket x-pipes and the stock GT350R pipe. Buying this car did not “make sense” to many of my friends, neighbors and family members given how well my previous mustang was set up. But I have always wanted a Shelby since I was little kid back in the late ‘70’s. When I first saw one, I can still remember the feeling of how cool it was and it was a rust bucket getting ready to be restored.
I find it hard to believe that I am the only one wanting to do this. But if I am, then so be it and I’ll take the plunge.

It's all in your head. If you can hear the difference between identical exhausts, with one having smooth pipes and the other having 4 welds (2 insert pipes) then you're either "hearing things" or you should get a job working in acoustical analytics as some sort of human bat savant.

I understand not wanting to hack on the OEM exhaust and inserting delete pipes "SEEMS" trashy to some people and I understand wanting to do things totally the right way, so it's an OCD thing (completely understandable) but there's no difference in the sound of a stock smooth exhaust section, a "kit" delete welded in or even a custom johnny muffler shop couple of equivalent sections welded in.
 

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