Sticking/raising rpms back again! Help!!

bobbystang

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So I was driving my car today and it would not idle below 1100 RPM. When I drive and I shift the RPMs raise to 1800 to 2800 RPM stick and they never go down below 1200. This happened back in 2011 and I remember I had my friend help me with a paper clip and I think a digital multi meter and he tweaked something a couple millimeters and it fixed it for eight years straight but now it came back! Somebody please help me with this headache. Do I need to do to fix this and why did this happen again?


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98 svt

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So I was driving my car today and it would not idle below 1100 RPM. When I drive and I shift the RPMs raise to 1800 to 2800 RPM stick and they never go down below 1200. This happened back in 2011 and I remember I had my friend help me with a paper clip and I think a digital multi meter and he tweaked something a couple millimeters and it fixed it for eight years straight but now it came back! Somebody please help me with this headache. Do I need to do to fix this and why did this happen again?


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Sounds like your friend adjusted your TPS.
 

bobbystang

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I cleaned out my throttle body last fall before I put it in storage/cleaned k&n air filter as my car was having random stalling issues and that seemed to have done done the trick .
As for this rpm issue I’ve cleaned iac before even last summer .

What do U guys recommend?
Clean iac again
And w the tps how do i do it w the tweaking of the number and what number do I need to get it at to idle properly?

Thanks


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01yellercobra

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Check all your vacuum lines. For it to suddenly happen it sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

I'm with 98. I usually aim for .97. But they say .97-1.00 is good.
 

bobbystang

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Check all your vacuum lines. For it to suddenly happen it sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

I'm with 98. I usually aim for .97. But they say .97-1.00 is good.

That’s what I think it could be because I did tweak my TPS and it still sticks… So darn frustrating. And when you say check vacuum lines how would I go about doing that? I’m not a pro at doing things on my car but I have a decent idea. Thank you


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01yellercobra

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That’s what I think it could be because I did tweak my TPS and it still sticks… So darn frustrating. And when you say check vacuum lines how would I go about doing that? I’m not a pro at doing things on my car but I have a decent idea. Thank you


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Mostly it's following the lines and making sure they're not broken and connected where they should be. If you've put vacuum caps on anything make sure the caps are still there.
 

shurur

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Had this..and replaced my pcv, valve cover grommet (added permatex) and lines..also added oetiker clamps.
Been gone since..
 

bobbystang

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Had this..and replaced my pcv, valve cover grommet (added permatex) and lines..also added oetiker clamps.
Been gone since..

I’ll give this a shot too.

Also today I just jjiggled allthe vacuum lines made sure everything was intact and I started my car and the RPMs are no longer sticking. So is this possible for somehow this to fix itself? Or what could it have been?


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shurur

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PCV grommet can leak and rubber hoses start to crack.
Spring clips also get "tired."

Yes... problem can be intermittent. Mine was like that as well.
But it will come back now and again.

I would replace those short rubber lines, the Pcv and that valve cover grommet...and maybe add a thin film of permatex on the Pcv body as well.

I also used a tie wrapp attached to my oetiker clamp and my tower brace ... toward the Pcv end to pull the hose toward the Pcv to keep the hose slack and not pulling on the Pcv body..but that is probably overkill..but may help over time...


Slow98now mentioned this first...and is usually right..
 
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bobbystang

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PCV grommet can leak and rubber hoses start to crack.
Spring clips also get "tired."

Yes... problem can be intermittent. Mine was like that as well.
But it will come back now and again.

I would replace those short rubber lines, the Pcv and that valve cover grommet...and maybe add a thin film of permatex on the Pcv body as well.

I also used a tie wrapp attached to my oetiker clamp and my tower brace ... toward the Pcv end to pull the hose toward the Pcv to keep the hose slack and not pulling on the Pcv body..but that is probably overkill..but may help over time...


Slow98now mentioned this first...and is usually right..

I’m ordering the pcv today as it’s not in stock anywhere and as for valve cover grommets the valve cover has to come off to install these yes 8 of them? I’m not the most tech savvy but know enough lol . Ty


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shurur

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I’m ordering the pcv today as it’s not in stock anywhere and as for valve cover grommets the valve cover has to come off to install these yes 8 of them? I’m not the most tech savvy but know enough lol . Ty


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no...I'm just talking about the one grommet that the PCV goes through in the Valve cover.

...located on the back DS valve cover.
 

98_Undertaker

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Also check the egr I chased similar things for months and it was the cause of mine


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shurur

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Also check the egr I chased similar things for months and it was the cause of mine


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Yup...that's true..
I guess somebody probably should have suggested using starter spray fluid to find it first.
I kinda guessed/assumed (shotgunned) this one..but even should it not fix the problem..those PCV lines should be replace by now anyway...and it's fairly cheap to do.
 

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