2001 cobra transmission removal

if you have pulled all the other bolts already and left that one only tight, then it could be carrying the stress of the trans. put 2-3 of the other bolts back in and retry.
you should not need an impact for this, keep in mind the trans and block are aluminum so I would not recommend beating on them excessively as those threads will shear easily
torques spec is only 36 ftlbs or something like that

The cross member is still in place so there should be stress on the bolt I wouldn’t think. I think these bolts were over torqued by the old owner and the reaction between the aluminum and steel is seizing the bolts. Plus I think the bracket is rusted to the bolt too. I had the same situation with aluminum and steel with the water pump on my foxbody awhile back and I had to replaced the timing cover.


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So I got time to attempt the top bolt removal and it’s not budging. I used the swivel attachment sockets from harbor freight and they’re excellent. I also put the jack under the tail shaft of the tranny to see if the bolt was stressed with weight and nothing. I’m almost thinking the bolt is rusted to that black bracket above the tranny. I’m at a lose here 22 inches of extensions just to get to it and I can’t break it loose. Any suggestions?


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Well, I got my bolt and transmission out! It was that stupid upper bracket it somehow was caught on the thread of the bolt. I wiggles it out of the way and the bolt came right out.

Are you able to get the car high enough with jack stands to remove and swap a new trans in?

jasonpalamar said:

Are you able to get the car high enough with jack stands to remove and swap a new trans in?

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Yes, no problem! I have 1.5 ton jack stands that don’t even go that high and I had no problems. The transmission isn’t that heavy really. Now removing the irs full assembly by myself was a different story but still managed.


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I have had similar experiences. I had a fox body starter bolt that was seized - not a bracket. That was a real joy. In the end after hours screwing around a LONG extension and an impact were the solution. I used to swap the transmission on that car in the driveway on jack stands and blocks. I went through a few of them. Way too much power for a T5 and too much fun smoking Vettes and Porches.

But I don’t know about doing a TR3650 that way - a lot more weight combined with not enough room for me and a few more years now.


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PhaidOut said:

I have had similar experiences. I had a fox body starter bolt that was seized - not a bracket. That was a real joy. In the end after hours screwing around a LONG extension and an impact were the solution. I used to swap the transmission on that car in the driveway on jack stands and blocks. I went through a few of them. Way too much power for a T5 and too much fun smoking Vettes and Porches.

But I don’t know about doing a TR3650 that way - a lot more weight combined with not enough room for me and a few more years now.


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Click to expand...

T5=junk I totaled a foxbody due to a junk t5. I went to shift into 4th and it fell into 2 due to bad synchros. I spun off the road and bent the frame.


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Well, I got a new clutch fork and pivot stud and I put the transmission in today. The rattle can sound and squealing is gone. It would’ve been nice to have a helper but I was able to do it by myself.


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Once you do it the first time it gets easier each time after that.

Exactly, now I I threw that upper bellhousing bracket in the trash. Lol


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I just did this the last couple of weeks. Doing it on my back with not a lot of extra clearance. Here is what I have learned in case anyone else actualy uses the search in the future.....

SK tools makes a very long extension 1/2" drive down to 3/8", I also used SK swivel impact short socket 13mm 3/8" drive. That helped TREMENDOUSLY in reaching the top bolts. I had a 1/2" drive 13mm socket and 1/2" impact swivel, but the socket was too thick to really seat well on the bolts. I didn't want to strip them. Unbolt the transmission crossmember and let it drop, You can then snake that in and hit the two uppers without having to put a lot of extnesions together.

Those bolts were on tight!! I hammered them for a long while with both my old IR air impact and my new Dewalt Battery one (both 1/2: drive). I even managed to break the socket (side wall of socket) on one of the side bolts.

Drop the trans crossmember and do the top bolts first... then you can support with trans jack and take the rest out.

Be careful when you put it back together that the o2 sensor sockets don't end up in the bellhousing. %$@*&$^&%&$