Replacing the Mach 460

52merc

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Winter is just about over here which means I can move the '01 into the garage and get to work on it. One of the projects will be replacing my old Mach 460 system since I'm having some issues. After a lot of research and looking at alternatives I have decided on the following:
Pioneer AVC-8201NEX GPS receiver (comes with rear camera); Pioneer GM-D9604 4-channel 100 W amplifier; and two pairs of Rockford Fosgate T1615-5 speakers.

1. I don't need to have enough bass to be heard 10 blocks away so I'm not planning on a sub.
2. I'm planning to install the amp where one of the factory amps are currently.
3. The speakers should be mountable in the stock locations so it will still look factory. With the 6.75" woofers and using the OE sound box in the back, I'm hoping the there will be enough bass (see 1. above).
4. I'm planning to run all new wiring as the factory stuff is pretty marginal.

Original Mach 460 head unit has a volume control issue and one amp is foobarred causing the battery to drain if I plug it in.

Any thoughts out there?
 

shurur

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Sorry no input..but thanks for posting.
Your set up looks like what I want to do "soon."..someday..
 

NoahConstrictor

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I recently installed a pioneer AVH-2300NEX. I would look into one without a built in GPS. Many head units have android auto/apple car play. When you plug the phone in, it allows you to answer your phone, and access the navigation app in your phone on the stereos screen. Saves a lot of money over a built in receiver.

I opted for a subwoofer install, and personally, even if you don’t want to “bump”, it will improve the sound of the other speakers by isolating the low frequency bass to the woofer.

That being said, I used a pioneer GM-D9605 5-channel amplifier to power everything, and mounted it to the under side of the rear deck. Most amps are too large for the factory locations, so I drilled pilot holes out and mounted it dead center on the box.

For the doors, I used the JL Audio C2-525 component kit. Contains two crossovers, two tweeters, and two 5-1/4” mid-bass woofers. The hardest thing to do here is mount the crossover. They are not small, and our cars offer little extra room. The stock tweeters are also not true tweeters(2-1/2” I think). When I mounted mine, I destroyed my stock tweeters, by removing the cone and magnet from the metal frame, and superglued my new 3/4” tweeters onto the frame and mounted them in the stock enclosures. The 5-1/4” woofers also require an adapter to fit the 5x7 hole($7).

In my rear deck I used JBL GT7-86 5x7’s. Direct fit.

In the trunk, I built a sealed enclosure for a 10” sub. I prefer sealed enclosures because the bass is tighter and they take up much less space. I used a JL Audio 10w3v3-4.

Running wire is a serious pain in this car. There is not much room to spare. I’m 6’ tall so I found myself a practicing contortionist crawling around the back seat to remove the trim.

The kick panels, door panels, rocker panels, and all the trim around the rear seat and rear window need to be removed(or at least undone and pushed enough out of the way). The bottom bolt on the floor for the front seat belt also needs to be undone. Otherwise you won’t get underneath the carpet. If I did it again, I would also remove the front seats, to make the job easier.

I made my own rca cables, as I couldn’t find any that were really up to snuff for me, and I wrapped them in copper tape and then soldered a ground to either end of the tape to aid in interference.
I also ran a ground between the amp and head unit to level them out. If you do this, be sure to put a fuse in this wire towards the amp for protection.
Beware of purchasing wire online. A lot of what is being sold now is not copper wire, but is actually copper clad aluminum and many sellers misrepresent their products. If the price seems good, it’s probably CCA.
You will most likely have to drill a hole in the firewall to run the power cable. I would seal this very well to prevent water from getting in the car.

Overall my set up looks stock, short of the small sub box and larger amp centered under the bottom side of the deck. It performs very well, and can reach volumes I would never subject my ears to. The apple car play/android auto is extremely convenient. I ran a USB port into my center console underneath the factory power outlet, and it looks like it came that way. I didn’t install the rear view camera, but it wouldn’t have been much more difficult. It took me about a week of afternoons to get it done, but I could’ve done it in a weekend. I probably spent close to $1,200 for everything. I used crutchfield to source the parts that fit, and then took those part numbers on amazon to save about $300.

I will post you some pictures when I get my car back from getting tuned later this week.
 
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52merc

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Thanks for the comments. Data plans are expensive in Canada so I don't use my phone for much of anything (except phone calls and text) when I'm not on WiFi. Hence the GPS. The backup camera would be nice as I've gotten used to having the 360° view on my F150.

I've used Crutchfield for a lot of my research but plan on buying most of the stuff other places as Crutchfield is just too expensive and I wouldn't probably use the customer support.

I plan on pretty well gutting the interior of the car to do the install. I'm 63 years old and I'm not about to try and climb over seats, etc. My past experience has taught me that at least removing the seats is a good start for any big interior work. It just makes it so much easier. I'm also going to rebuild the IRS later this year so I'm planing on putting in some sound insulation material under the back seat to cut down on the NVH that I'm expecting to get with the aluminum housing bushings (I'll do the Full Tilt Boogie treatment). I might also get rid of the OE clutch cable set-up while the interior is gutted and get that out of the way since I've been procrastinating that mod for ever.

I've done some research on the amplifier wiring kits that are available and found a couple that include sealing grommets for the firewall and true oxygen-free copper wire instead of the CCA. I agree that you need to be careful when looking at these kits.

I was kicking around the ideal of going with the GM-9605 and putting in a TS-SWX2502 10" subwoofer. This is a small compact unit, but I just hate to use more trunk space, as I'm thinking about relocating the battery to the trunk and I still want to be able to get my golf clubs in there.

The T1675-S speakers are component with 1" tweeters, 6.75" woofers with crossovers. Crutchfield says the woofers are a direct fit and Rockford Fosgate includes some interesting multi-size adapters with them. I plan on making some adapter plates for the tweeters and mounting them in the original positions.
 

NoahConstrictor

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I would definitely consider whether or not move the battery to the trunk before I did the installation of the amp. It’ll save you from drilling through the firewall, and running the power cable all the way through the car.
I’ve considered saving trunk space by using fiberglass to mold a box that form fits to one side of the trunk and wrap it in factory colored carpet but I haven’t pulled the trigger yet, as I’ve never used fiberglass myself(I believe these may be available from some manufacturers, but I tend to do things myself if I can).
Another thing that helps with wiring, is really good tape, particularly in the trunk. I used gorilla glue duct tape(serious stuff) to mount wires flush underneath the carpet and keep them hidden up top running towards the amp.
10”subwoofers are way more than enough for the car, and I’d have gone with an 8” had I known just how much power mine would be capable of.
Good luck with your stereo build and your “while I’m at it” projects.
 

mysticsvt

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As mentioned....a good sounding system will require the appropriate drivers getting the appropriate frequencies at the appropriate power levels. A sub.....is required. Just get a 10" zen enclosure which takes up little no room and gives an amp rack as well. Just installed one in mine and it's perfect for my needs.

https://www.zenclosures.com/Mustang-s/59.htm
 

Hunter98SVT

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I would definitely consider whether or not move the battery to the trunk before I did the installation of the amp. It’ll save you from drilling through the firewall, and running the power cable all the way through the car.
I’ve considered saving trunk space by using fiberglass to mold a box that form fits to one side of the trunk and wrap it in factory colored carpet but I haven’t pulled the trigger yet, as I’ve never used fiberglass myself(I believe these may be available from some manufacturers, but I tend to do things myself if I can).
Another thing that helps with wiring, is really good tape, particularly in the trunk. I used gorilla glue duct tape(serious stuff) to mount wires flush underneath the carpet and keep them hidden up top running towards the amp.
10”subwoofers are way more than enough for the car, and I’d have gone with an 8” had I known just how much power mine would be capable of.
Good luck with your stereo build and your “while I’m at it” projects.
It's pretty easy once you figure it out. I've restored a couple boat decks and it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.
 

52merc

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Zen Enclosure will cost me about twice what they sell it for by the time I pay for shipping and customs clearance. I would just build it myself or go with the compact TS-SWX2502 instead. I'm still not convinced I need a sub.
 

98 svt

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Zen Enclosure will cost me about twice what they sell it for by the time I pay for shipping and customs clearance. I would just build it myself or go with the compact TS-SWX2502 instead. I'm still not convinced I need a sub.


Its 2018, we no longer need 2 massive subs to get great, correct, smooth bass. I'd save those Zen things for someone else. I remember using 2 RF subs back in the early 90s, and they needed a huge box like those zen boxes.
1 properly chosen sub, in a small sealed enclosure will get it done. Build your own, it's much more rewarding, and always looks better.
 

NoahConstrictor

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I built my own box, measured 17-7/8"W x 11"H x 9"D, for a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure.
For an 8"sub, I'd build something about the size of a 10"cube. These can still be quite powerful, but all it takes is a small adjustment of the output levels on the amplifier to get it where you like it.
I believe you can buy a 6.5" sub from JL audio, others may make one in this size as well, but I prefer JL. they recommend an 8-1/2"H x 8-1/2"W x 6-1/4"D enclosure. I've never seen one of these set up in a car, so I can't offer any feedback to how it would sound, but it would be quite small.
I’m not sure I could convince you how “necessary” a subwoofer is without you hearing the difference. I would recommend at least buying the 5-channel amplifier, in case you change your mind after install. The pioneer gm-d9604 will not fit where either of the stock amps are located, and is only marginally smaller than the gm-d9605.
 

52merc

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The speakers I'm planning on using have 1" tweeters and 6.75" woofers. Don't think the 6.5" sub would do much for me.

I have built a subwoofer box before for my son's TurboCoupe when he had that. If need be, I can easily build another one. I have all the tools.

The GM-9604 should fit in the spot where one of the Mach 460 amps are placed. The only problem is the length. At 315 mm I will need to fabricate a bracket. It will stick out farther into the trunk area more than the Mach does and be slightly lower (room for the bracket), but it shouldn't protrude any farther into the trunk than the trunk opening. I think I can make that work. The GM-9605 is the exact same dimension as the 9604. I might just get the 9605 in case I decide I need a sub.
 

52merc

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Pulled the trigger on a complete setup:
Pioneer AVIC-8201NEX from Amazon
Metra 95-5026 from Amazon
Metra 70-5701 from Amazon
Rockford Fosgate R600X5 from Amazon
Rockford Fosgate T1675-S (2 sets) from Crutchfield
KnuKonceptz KOL-AKA4 Amp Wiring Kit from Amazon
KnuKonceptz Klarity 4 x 6m RCA Cables from Amazon

I went with the R600X5 instead of the GM-9605 because it is quite a bit heavier due to the heat sinks and is supposed to run much cooler.
I probably wont use all of the connectors in the 5701 since I'm running new speaker wires to all 8 speakers.
The crossovers for the door speakers should fit nicely between the door frame and the door panel. All that should be needed is to remove some of the foam insulation.
I'll have to fab a mounting bracket for the R600X5 but plan on mounting it about where the driver side stock amp is. It is longer so I will need to drop it down a little when I make the mount.
I'll run everything I need for a sub but I'm going to wait and see if I really want to put one in.
 

NoahConstrictor

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That’s a good looking amp. Another plus, is all of the inputs and speaker outputs appear to be on one side, unlike the pioneer. Makes hiding cable much easier. Take a picture of your bracket and what it looks like when it’s installed. I’m curious to see how well hidden it will be.
Keep in mind if you decide to buy a sub, to go with a 4ohm rated about 150w RMS. 4 ohm will produce a cleaner, less noisy sound compared to a 2 ohm.
 

52merc

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Thanks Noah. I'm still thinking the Pioneer TS-SWX2502 which is a 10" at 4 Ohms, but that could change. I'm currently gutting the interior in preparation for the install. All the parts should be here by mid-week. It might take me a couple of days to design an fab a mount for the amp but I'll be sure to let you know how it turns out.
 

zPipes

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If i recall when i did mine you can run thru the firewall thru a grommet thats already there
 

52merc

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Well, after a lot more work than I was expecting, the Mach is out and the new system is in. I gutted the interior, ran all new wires, mounted the amp (in the same place as the right side Mach amp), made 8 speaker mounting plates, mounted speakers and crossovers, mounted the new head unit, and re-assembled the interior. So far it sounds OK. I know the speakers need to break-in and I need to "tune" everything as the amp has adjustments, the crossovers have adjustments, and the head unit has an equalizer.
 

NoahConstrictor

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The difference in sound before and after breaking in the speakers will hardly be noticed. I would recommend trying the high pass filter if the speakers sound distorted at greater volumes and turn the frequency up on the HPF until the distortion is gone. If that cuts too much bass out, I would turn it back off and try using the active control in the head unit. It will allow you to slope the volume of the lower frequencies by 12-24db. The crossover should be set to 0db at first, and should only be switched if you feel the tweeter is too loud relative to the mid bass woofer. Some crossovers have a +3db switch if you want the tweeter louder, but most are 0,-3 & -6. I adjusted the EQ in the head unit by finding the factory setting I preferred and then adjusting the individual frequencies to fit my preference. When you do so on the pioneer it should create a custom EQ automatically. Make sure the setting for the sub output is turned off in the head unit since you’re not running a sub.


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52merc

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I have 4 tweeters, 4 woofers, a factory head unit (the 6 CD changer version) and 1 amp. I have a second amp but it has a fried resister which causes a battery drain when parked (although it still works). The head unit has a minor problem with the volume which does not always act the way it should when you turn the knob. I have no need for these items and would be willing to let them go cheap. The parts are in Canada and if they go to the US you may end up paying for customs clearance on top of shipping (I would use the postal service).

I got around to tuning the amp today and sound is better yet, although it wasn't bad before. It is much crisper than the Mach and the channel separation is more apparent. This is likely due to the woofers (aka: mid-range) speakers being on 4 distinct channels instead of on two. Right now the system will go loud enough without appreciable distortion. I have to turn it down before it starts distorting as it is just too loud to listen comfortably.

I will probably get a sub-woofer at some point. I'm looking at the shallow mount type and planning to build my own enclosure when I get time. I want to maintain as much truck space as possible.
 

NoahConstrictor

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If you have any Mach system parts you would like to get rid of, please let me know. I need at least 1 tweeter.

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I still have my tweeters in the rear, and the head unit. The head unit has displays “CD error” when you switch to CD, but otherwise it’s fine. I may also have the door speakers still, but I’ll check later this week. They’re not plugged in currently. I’m in GA as well. When I get the car back from the machine shop, I can probably pull them out in no time.


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