'97 Convertible- subframe connectors?

Martin6107 said:

Excellent, please share the data with me.

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Sure, and welcome to the internet.

Here are a quick two links from the top two Mustang suspension companies. One prides itself as being the most rugged for daily street abuse, while the other is probably the most winningest setup you could ever imagine running.

http://www.griggsracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=4332_4310_4348_4321&products_id=216

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_chass_stiff_subframe_connector.aspx

shurur said:

FTBR recommends specifically Stiffler or GW subframes vs MM subframe connectors for the verts.

You will notice the difference... even on a daily driver.

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One race car fabrication shop put a Mustang on a frame table and measured the bending and twisting of the Mustang chassis and based on the results, ladder bar sub frame connecter set ups such as stiffler and Global West do not add additional strength over a Maximum Motorsports type subframe Connectors.

Improvements to the mm set up are possible by cutting up the interior and adding a through the floor sub frame on a car already equipped with mm subs.

Dhughes12 said:

Was just getting ready to place an order for a set of weld on subframe connectors when i happened to read an article on americanmuscle stating that most convertibles have bolt ons installed from the factory. Anyone have any ideas? or if they DO have them; would i be well served by upgrading them? Mine only has 38K miles and is a weekend driver, but it pops and squeeks like nobodys business. I know being an older vert; some of that is just the way it is but i'd like to do anything i can to minimize it

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I have a 98 Cobra vert with Maximum Motorsports (MM) full length subframe connectors installed and modified to include matrix braces out to the pinch seams and fully welded. I highly recommend SFC’s for unibody cars, especially convertibles! I also had the torque boxes plated and welded before I learned about and installed a MM heavy duty torque arm suspension. Worth every penny in my opinion.

Cobra52898 said:

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I have a 98 Cobra vert with Maximum Motorsports (MM) full length subframe connectors installed and modified to include matrix braces out to the pinch seams and fully welded. I highly recommend SFC’s for unibody cars, especially convertibles! I also had the torque boxes plated and welded before I learned about and installed a MM heavy duty torque arm suspension. Worth every penny in my opinion.

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Any NVH with the panhard bar and HD torque arm?
I'm sold on the panhard bar, but don't want too much NVH with the Heavy Duty torque arm. I was considering the standard torque arm.

98 svt said:

Any NVH with the panhard bar and HD torque arm?
I'm sold on the panhard bar, but don't want too much NVH with the Heavy Duty torque arm. I was considering the standard torque arm.

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I haven’t had any issues with NVH and I used spherical bearings in the MM lower control arms, not polyurethane bushings which tend to wear out much faster. Also a torque arm with a pan hard bar eliminates the need for upper control arms which tend to bind under load, resulting in uncontrollable fish tailing and poor launch control. I went with the HD TA due to it’s greater power handling ability. You also should consider fully welding the axle tubes to the differential case. From the factory they are only welded at small holes in the diff case. I also went with 31 spline Moser axels and TracLok diff.
As an example I’ve launched hard from a stand still and my Cobra takes off straight and true with no fish tailing or wheel hop. And that was on 10.5” Nitto drag radials. Hope this was helpful. Good luck.

Cobra52898 said:

I haven’t had any issues with NVH and I used spherical bearings in the MM lower control arms, not polyurethane bushings which tend to wear out much faster. Also a torque arm with a pan hard bar eliminates the need for upper control arms which tend to bind under load, resulting in uncontrollable fish tailing and poor launch control. I went with the HD TA due to it’s greater power handling ability. You also should consider fully welding the axle tubes to the differential case. From the factory they are only welded at small holes in the diff case. I also went with 31 spline Moser axels and TracLok diff.
As an example I’ve launched hard from a stand still and my Cobra takes off straight and true with no fish tailing or wheel hop. And that was on 10.5” Nitto drag radials. Hope this was helpful. Good luck.

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Excellent, thanks for the lengthy response. My car is currently at the Dr.'s for open heart surgery, and a pace maker (turbo). I suspect I would need the HD torque arm setup, but was just afraid of any added NVH.

I had the Kenny Brown matrix braces, jacking rails and sub-frame connectors put in my bar which is a coupe and it definitely made a difference in the squeaks and rattles while driving down the road. And the jacking rails are a dream come true.

If I was doing it now I'd go for the Stiffler's but these weren't available when I had my car done.

Ironmancanada said:

One race car fabrication shop put a Mustang on a frame table and measured the bending and twisting of the Mustang chassis and based on the results, ladder bar sub frame connecter set ups such as stiffler and Global West do not add additional strength over a Maximum Motorsports type subframe Connectors.

Improvements to the mm set up are possible by cutting up the interior and adding a through the floor sub frame on a car already equipped with mm subs.

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was it a coupe or a ‘vert?

deadernie said:

I had the Kenny Brown matrix braces, jacking rails and sub-frame connectors put in my bar which is a coupe and it definitely made a difference in the squeaks and rattles while driving down the road. And the jacking rails are a dream come true.

If I was doing it now I'd go for the Stiffler's but these weren't available when I had my car done.

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I was going to do the Kennedy brown stuff but they had gone out of business so I had mine custom made. I agree that the jacking rails are awesome