Adapting dual mode exhaust ideas?

biminiLX

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Anyone else interested in dual mode exhaust like all the new cool kids' cars have?
Really, my current setup is killer (2" ARH 3.5" collector 3" full off road SW) but 'might' be a tad illegal in addition to wife scowling.
Looking at the dual mode offerings I've seen, I think I can adapt a valve to the existing piping, or a dual mode muffler at the back.
I'm assuming it should be straight forward to wire and I'll put a switch next to my existing switches for line-lock, WOT box 2-step and ice tank pump.
Comments? Suggestions?
-J
 

sleek98

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Only easy way I can see it working would be put your quiet exhaust on as the catback and have a cutout that either dumps straight out or goes through another muffler.

Otherwise you would need to find a muffler that would fit before the axle that has a chambered design and then a straight through.
 

Bad Company

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Anyone else interested in dual mode exhaust like all the new cool kids' cars have?
Really, my current setup is killer (2" ARH 3.5" collector 3" full off road SW) but 'might' be a tad illegal in addition to wife scowling.
Looking at the dual mode offerings I've seen, I think I can adapt a valve to the existing piping, or a dual mode muffler at the back.
I'm assuming it should be straight forward to wire and I'll put a switch next to my existing switches for line-lock, WOT box 2-step and ice tank pump.
Comments? Suggestions?
-J
J

Behind the X-pipe and before the mid-pipe you can add a set of 60mm turbo wastegates as dump valves. This would allow you to adjust the opening point by boost pressure in the intake manifold. It would be completely automatic or you could also install a boost controller to shut them off when on the street. I don't know if there is enough room under the car to do this. I like this thought over electric cutouts due to the fact a wastegate is easily rebuilt if it starts leaking, plus I like how the valve closes which will seal against exhaust gases better than an electric exhaust cutouts. I also like the Corsa mufflers as they have a 3" through pipe in the core of the muffler. They flow better than any baffled muffler design, yet are extremely quiet under standard driving conditions. The only thing is you'll have to cut off the 2.75" ball joint connector and weld a 3" pipe to match your existing piping. Yet with the internal piping in the Corsa being 3" then you'll have a complete 3" exhaust with a high flow muffler that will not drone at cruise conditions

The cross sectional width of the 3" exhaust piping and the 60mm wastegates will actually be larger in diameter than your current 3.5" collector of your headers, it will be the equivalent to having a 3.75" exhaust system when the wastegates are open under boost conditions. To limit some of the noise under the car when the wastegates are open you could do custom piping from the wastegates to the front of the tires in a similar manner as to the 2012 Boss 302 cars. I don't know if there is enough room under the car to do this in the 2.25" piping that would be required after the wastegates to flow the exhaust volume of doing a short turn down under the car at the wastegates

The only downside is how much the wastegates cost. It is an idea that remedies a lot of problems associated with electric cutouts, leaves you the option of adjusting when they open at what boost point in the intake manifold by changing springs. And you could add a boost controller to keep it shut for street use.
 

biminiLX

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BC: crazy to think of the WG idea! I have spare 60mm JGS sitting here, but would be funny to have a boost controller on here just for exhaust.

The QTP cutouts are the basic, old-school plan, and I still may do that while reinstalling the stock OEM mufflers.

I guess I was looking for pics of some OEM dual mode exhaust, specifically mufflers from like theCamaro, Corvette, etc. that could potentially be adapted.
The GT350 has twin muffler exists and basically, one of the 2 pipes leaving the muffler is closed by a valve in quiet mode. Doesn't look like it could work as easily in the GT500 valance.

Another option is that it appears some of the new systems have inline valves in the main pipe. Borla makes a 3" version that could potentially work. Buy an OEM valve motor actuator, wire it in, and use a performance 3" Borla valve. Can kind of see it here:
http://www.southerncarparts.com/201...-140648.html?gclid=CKjR9IS6pdICFVtWDQodxVwIxQ

Anyone have knowledge of any of these OEM systems? Pics?
-J
 

Bad Company

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BC: crazy to think of the WG idea! I have spare 60mm JGS sitting here, but would be funny to have a boost controller on here just for exhaust.

-J
J..........where does it say that I think in conventional terms? LOL

Whenever I get my car put back together I'm going to see if this will work with 2 60mm gates. I am going to come off the back side of the X-pipe with the wastegates, so the exhaust is going to have a straight shot from the X into the opening for the wastegate. This should increase the flow through the wastegates when they're open. I'm hoping there is enough room under the car to do this. Mathematically the cross sectional area of the 3" exhaust, mufflers and gates would be the equivalent of running a complete 3 7/8" exhaust system from the header collector back to the muffler when the gates are open.
 

Tob

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What's interesting about that kit is that Holley is using OEM exhaust actuators from Kuster. Those are the exact same ones that are used on the GT350. The valve and housing are custom, etc, but the actuators are an OEM proven design. I just pulled mine off of the original exhaust system on my GT350 and swapped them onto an FRP/Borla system. And that isn't a bad price (I'm sure you could find it for less) given what you'd pay Ford for the actuators alone.


http://www.kuester.net/en/products/actuators/59-exhaust-systems/127-exhaust-systems


0219171625_HDR.jpg



0219171615_HDR.jpg



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01performanceredvertsnake

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I apologize if I'm reviving this thread but I'm also wanting to do this but not on a gt500. I was wondering if you could just take a stock GT350 muffler and bolt it on and wire it to a switch? Or would that be a waste since it's a stock muffler? I've thought about doing this on my 01 Cobra and putting the muffler where my mufflers are now and just using a y pipe to go to the existing tailpipe. Then putting a switch by my shifter. Sound like it would work or no?
LMR sells a complete Ford performance catback that are basically the GT350 mufflers.
https://lmr.com/item/M5200MSS/16-17-shelby-gt350-active-sport-cat-back-exhaust-m-5200-mss
 

calebdnehus

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Anyone have an idea how to wire up a switch to the stock gt350 actuators? I’ve got a set of OEM muffler w/actuators but can’t seem to find the wire harness for it. I planned on using the harness to plug into the actuator and cut the plug off the other end to wire up a switch to it
 
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biminiLX

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Funny you revived this as I just called a guy who posted GT350 exhaust on Craigslist. He was keeping actuators for Borlas and wanted too much for stock mufflers but funny on your timing.
I actually just welded stock mufflers into my 3” SW system and it still made 965rwhp and is fairly quiet so I haven’t gone farther.
But I’m worried the WOT box may damage the stock mufflers.
Probably just going to do QTP cutouts but hopefully BC will share that he actually did his crazy ingenious plan!
-J
 

Bad Company

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Funny you revived this as I just called a guy who posted GT350 exhaust on Craigslist. He was keeping actuators for Borlas and wanted too much for stock mufflers but funny on your timing.
I actually just welded stock mufflers into my 3” SW system and it still made 965rwhp and is fairly quiet so I haven’t gone farther.
But I’m worried the WOT box may damage the stock mufflers.
Probably just going to do QTP cutouts but hopefully BC will share that he actually did his crazy ingenious plan!
-J
The plan was executed with a H-Pipe versus the original X-Pipe idea. Unfortunately these cars don't have a lot of room under them. Trying to build a 4" X-Pipe that terminates in the stock location to connect to the mid-pipes that run so close to each other, down along the tunnel area, while also trying to fit 2 60mm wastegates in the area of the X-Pipe where it crosses is impossible. It is a nice idea that may work with a 3" or 3.5" X-pipe. I'm hoping by running the 4" H-Pipe versus a smaller diameter X-Pipe that there won't be a Hp loss that is normal for a H versus an X pipe. The other thing was with the wastegates being installed prior to the crossover of the H the fabricator didn't think the crossover needed to be as big in diameter. In these pictures it looks small, it is 2.5" diameter crossover. The big 4" pipe makes it appear much smaller LOL

A 4" H-Pipe that reduces to the 3" mid-pipes worked nicely. The car is scheduled for tuning in a few weeks. The snow storms that keep hitting the northeast has kept the car in the barn keeping a stackcruiser company for the winter LOL.

IMG_1972.jpg


I was down at the Mod Motor Nationals looking over the data logs of a car that ran with and without electric cut outs that he had in his X-Pipe before the X in the manner I was thinking of doing wastegates. He had a 3" X-pipe. The differences in the AFR was surprising between the runs with it actually leaning out, but still in the safe zone since he was on the fat side to start with. He also was averaging a .1 to .2 faster ETs with the cut outs open.

Here is my exhaust with the 60mm wastegates. The gates are set to open at 5.9 psi of boost. I did install a Parker XM series 4 port electric solenoid with a On/Off rocker switch to stop the boost signal from opening the gates if I desire to be utterly quiet.........like this thing is quiet running through the mufflers to begin with. The Corsa mufflers do have a 3" baffle system to start with. They come from Corsa with a reduced inlet that was very easy to change to 3". The mid-pipes are American Racing Headers standard 3" set up to go to their 3" mufflers. I had the Corsa mufflers and loved the sound with no drone, so I had them modified to retain that sound.

Here is what it looks like.

IMG_1931.jpg
 

calebdnehus

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For anyone wanting to do this with OEM actuators/valves/mufflers... you will need to open the actuator assembly up by prying the sides apart. You will have to remove the circuit board on the inside and wire direct leads to the OEM motor. Run the wires out of the actuator and seal up. You can then run the leads to a momentary reverse polarity DPDT switch to operate the valves without damaging them
 

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