Had a Bendpak XPR-10AXLS lift installed today (pics and process)

Today was lift install day... finally! I had been putting this off for a long time. I had to solve the delivery and weight issue (almost a couple thousand pounds). This thing is close to a couple thousand pounds shipped! If you accept delivery, YOU have to remove it from the delivery vehicle. I spoke with a Bendpak rep who gave me a local installer's info. For a fee, the installer took delivery of the lift and then came out and made it all happen. The fee was WELL worth it. This lift is MASSIVE and is seriously heavy. Plus, all of the drilling and cable/hose installation was best left to the professionals in my case.
I chose to go with a 2-post lift initially (I have another outlet wired for a possible 4-post lift addition). I went with this lift:
Super-Tall Two-Post Lift - High Rise Lift - XPR-10ASLX
It was their tallest 2-post lift. I'm not sure I'll need the extra height, but since I had the space, I went big. I also wanted the option to be able to lift stuff high enough to transfer to my loft (possibly from the back of my truck)
Now for pictures of the process...
First off, the 3 Cobras got relocated to the house garage:

Once the installers arrived, we discussed options and decided the best option for me was to have the lift installed "backwards." This would allow me to back the vehicles into position vs. driving into the lift forward. The reasons I went with this option were:
1. I normally back all of my vehicles into the garage.
2. The lift motor is on the passenger side tower. Installing it "backwards" more closely aligned it with my 220 prewired power source.
3. By backing the vehicles into position, the mirrors never pass between the towers. This allowed me to use the narrow setting of the lift and still be able to lift my F-150.
4. By installing the lift backwards, it deconflicted with the door on the nearby wall.
Back to the process...
I pulled my truck into position and we mapped out an exact position of the lift:

Since I have foam sprayed walls, the installer measured off the front garage door to find "square."

Next was tackling the monster on the trailer. They expertly used an engine hoist:

They pushed/pulled the lift into the garage while the heavy tower balanced. Fortunately the nylon wheels didn't mar my floor:

They put down cardboard to protect the floor... winning the battle:

In with the second column/tower:

At this point, the columns were free-standing. With the above cross-beam in the narrow setting, they connected the 2 towers:

They assured me their measurements were good, but I still requested to drive my truck into position for one final check before we started drilling. They were right... the fit was perfect:

Next it was time to drill 12 anchor bolt holes. These are the massive anchor bolts that get hammered into position. They then crank on the nuts with a large driver and the anchor end part spreads and grabs the concrete. The installer dude said the instructions state to drill the holes just deep enough for the bolts, but he said they always drill completely through the slab. This allows them to hammer the anchor out the bottom (into the dirt) if any of them give them problems. More on that later...

One guy used a large hammer drill while the other sucked-up the dust with my shop vac:

After checking for level, they inserted "U" shaped washers to level-out the columns:

Seriously cranking down on the nuts that hold the lift:

Drilling the other column bolts:

Hammering the anchor bolts into position:

This is where we ran into a problem. Drilling hole #12 of 12 (the last freak'n one), they hit rebar. Their drill bit was a dual-purpose concrete/metal, but the driller ended up spending about 10-15 minutes drilling through the rebar. During this process, the hole got slightly elongated and the anchor bolt would not grab enough for them to be happy with it. They ended up hammering it out the bottom (into the dirt) and went with "plan-B." The options at this point are to move the lift and start drilling all new holes (HECK NO!) or use a 2-part epoxy with a new anchor bolt. We went with the epoxy option. They mixed the epoxy in the hole and hammered another (extra) anchor bolt into position. They will come back later to tighten the nut after the epoxy has cured.
Back to the process...
Checking column 2 for level in both axis... a magnetic level was handy!

Running cables and hydraulic lines:

Installing the motor and hydraulic fluid reservoir:

Filling approximately 3 gallons of hydraulic fluid:

Installing the arms. Short ones in the front, long ones in the back:

Adjusting the arms so they go up uniformly:

Screw-extending lift pads installed. They also have "stackable adapters" pictured lower-left:

The installers temporarily wired the lift to ensure everything functioned properly, but permanent wiring is up to me. They showed me what needs to be done, they just don't do it. I'm thinking of tackling it myself. I have a 30-amp breaker supplying 220 to raw wires in a box nearby. I plan to install a 220 plug in the box and then wire-up the lift with a plug that can be removed from the wall socket. The wiring also has to run through the safety shutoff circuit that is activated by a lever in the cross beam.
So, items that remain:
1. Wiring
2. Secure anchor bolt #12
3. Contact Bendpak for touch-up paint. It is common for these massive lifts to sustain battle scars during shipping and mine was no exception.
I look forward to lifting my first vehicle!

Magnificent.

Really nice pictures. We have the same one. Very nice piece.

Good thing you dont have radiant in floor heating. I would feel completely comfortable with one of the 12 in epoxy. 12 seems like a LOT (which is good)

Looks good! You’ll be happy with that choice. I opted for a 4post Bendpack and absolutely love it.

Great write up as usual. I have a 4 post in my garage. 2 post lifts are super versatile. That is next on my list.

Are those installers twins, or do they just look a lot alike?

Great write-up with excellent pics and description of the process! I may reference this when I get my Benpak 2 post lift, if I choose to install it myself. Looks great... enjoy!

Nothing not to love about that new lift, Goose. SO good that the installers didn't mar that gorgeous floor. I'm sure you were probably a bit nervous with them wheeling in the posts. But all went well. Even the 12th bolt! Awesome setup.

Nice 2 post. Congrats . Was the best tool i bought for servicing my race car. Im just curious i dont see any threads of you wrenching on your cars or a tool box...what will this lift be used for?

Very cool. Great write up as always.

TooFast98Cobra said:

Nice 2 post. Congrats . Was the best tool i bought for servicing my race car. Im just curious i dont see any threads of you wrenching on your cars or a tool box...what will this lift be used for?

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Anything for my 9 vehicles to include oil changes, coolant flushes, tire rotations, cleaning undercarriages of my collector cars and I’m sure I’ll use it extensively when I do a complete restoration of my 89 GT vert. First project, however, is to install lowering springs on my son’s 2011 Mustang GT. He got the springs for Christmas, but I told him we were going to wait for a lift. We did a set on his previous car on the ground. It should be much easier this time around.

More father son projects. Nice!!!!!!

4 Bendpak lifts here and love them! Had 1 piston leak over 4 years. The XPR-10A we have has been solid and gets used a bunch!

Did the wiring last night and my install dude came by today and torqued the bolt down that we used epoxy on. All is well!

Before raising my first vehicle, I had to do a little project first... I ordered normal profile arms vs. low profile arms. The reason was after reading some reviews, I learned that although the low profile arms work better for sports cars, they don’t telescope as far as the normal profile arms and some owners mentioned they couldn’t lift their extended cab pickup trucks with the shorter arms.

I had to get the front of the Shelby higher to swing the arms under it from the rear. The asymmetric lift only allows the arms to swing in from the rear. You cannot move the front arm forward prior to getting the vehicle in place and then swinging it backwards into position. Soooooo.... I had some old wooden ramps I made awhile back. I cut up some rubber mats and glued them to the bottom. I left a rubber overhang on the front so the weight of the front tires would be on the rubber and keep the ramps from sliding on my smooth floor. These worked like a champ!

Glue drying:



I got the Shelby close to the lift position, slid the ramps behind the front wheels and then backed the Shelby up to raise the front. I could then easily swing the front arms under the car.





I used the pinch weld pucks on the rear and just the telescoping pads for the front. I plan to buy a second set of pinch weld pucks. The rear raised first and then the higher front made contact and the entire car raised smoothly and level. This is a picture at the lowest lock setting:



There are multiple locks along the way as you raise. The idea is you use hydraulics to raise the vehicle, but then relieve the pressure by lowering the vehicle down to a mechanical lock while you work. You then raise it slightly, release the locks and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Slightly higher lock:



Highest lock!







A “walk around.”

Goose what’s the thickness of your floor

Nice video of the lift, Goose! And best choice of song. One of my top two rock groups of all time. You might find your friend base is about to expand. LOL.

nmp1 said:

Goose what’s the thickness of your floor

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5.5” min. We used 2x6s for the edge forms, but there are some seriously deep footings that make a hashtag (#) that are much deeper as well as all the way around the outside.

Damn that’s nice!

The 2 post is great but I think it’d take a while for me to be confident the damn car wasn’t gonna somehow tip over nose first

DSG2003Mach1 said:

Damn that’s nice!

The 2 post is great but I think it’d take a while for me to be confident the damn car wasn’t gonna somehow tip over nose first

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You basically lift the car with 1/3rd in front of the columns and 2/3rds behind the columns. Plus, once the car was a few inches off the ground, I rocked it from the front and from the back to check for stability... All was good.