IRS Drag Racing Coilovers Selection?

03terminatorcobra

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I have been searching a lot on here and a few other sites but it seems like all the threads are now around 2-3 years old and have not been updated. A few double adjustable coilover setups are now available that are direct bolt in (viking, qa1, mm, afco).

I am looking for real world experience as there are a few guys now running in the 7's and 8's with the IRS. These guys are running really well but I cant seem to find out what coilover setups they use.

My car is no where near that level - 1.5/6 60ft, low 10's at the moment with ftbr bushings, 373's, hoosier qtp's, stock halfshafts, stock shocks and springs. Getting my 60 to a 1.3 would be ideal and thats where i think i need the double adjustable settings.

I want to make the upgrade and dont mind spending the extra cash for an amazing setup that works and wont have to be upgraded in the future. I know its better to race on a solid axle but i really enjoy the IRS and want to focus on making this combo better.

What would be the best double adjustable coilover to go with for all out drag racing?
 

black-plasma

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Not many guys still drag racing with the IRS and I’m not aware of anyone (at least online) that has been a 1.3 in the last 10 years. I know 2 guys that have done it, both had coil overs front/rear so it’s possible. I don’t have details on their setups anymore.
 

ITSTOCK

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Not many guys still drag racing with the IRS and I’m not aware of anyone (at least online) that has been a 1.3 in the last 10 years. I know 2 guys that have done it, both had coil overs front/rear so it’s possible. I don’t have details on their setups anymore.

I did a 1.36 last fall with the IRS without coilovers, the setup was as follows;
Viking VIK-J303AP in the front with AP valving and VIK-B225AM with AM valving in the back

the car was full weight and running 10.3's on a 28x10x17 hoosier slick with front runners.
 

03terminatorcobra

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I did a 1.36 last fall with the IRS without coilovers, the setup was as follows;
Viking VIK-J303AP in the front with AP valving and VIK-B225AM with AM valving in the back

the car was full weight and running 10.3's on a 28x10x17 hoosier slick with front runners.
thats impressive with the 17'' slick. gives me hope.
 

Reload469

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Hopefully someone chimes in about the Viking coil overs. I'm almost in the same boat, and there so new I can't find any feedback on them.

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I hope someone chimes in on the Vikings as well. I pulled the trigger on their coilover kit and it's currently being installed. Would like to see some real world success with em. If not, I'll be sure to post up in here after I've made some passes on them. Probably won't be much use since I've never tracked my car before though lol
 

ITSTOCK

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thats impressive with the 17'' slick. gives me hope.

Once you get in to the low 1.4's/1.3's, you start breaking a lot of parts. So I hope you don't still have the stock T-56, and are planning on getting your IRS completely built, including a tbird center section.

It's really not that fun going to the track and breaking every time.
 

black-plasma

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Once you get in to the low 1.4's/1.3's, you start breaking a lot of parts. So I hope you don't still have the stock T-56, and are planning on getting your IRS completely built, including a tbird center section.

It's really not that fun going to the track and breaking every time.

1.36 is impressive. I got to 10.08 w/ a best 60’ of 1.44 with stock shock/struts and H&R race springs. Then broke something 3 trips to the track in a row. Haven’t been back since.
 

03terminatorcobra

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Once you get in to the low 1.4's/1.3's, you start breaking a lot of parts. So I hope you don't still have the stock T-56, and are planning on getting your IRS completely built, including a tbird center section.

It's really not that fun going to the track and breaking every time.

I have the expectation I am going to brake something and am prepared lol.
t56 has the 26 spline input shaft, rxt, built with the gearbox stage 2 kit, and the nm2b no lift shift.
my stock half shafts are holding up well with the stiff wall slick. i know ill need to get the pro levels or the other high end kit eventually. ill have to get the t-bird iron center section eventually as well. i guess this is why so many people switch to a solid. much easier to setup and way cheaper.
 

black-plasma

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Definitely a lot cheaper to go SRA, as I have everything you mentioned above. I’d hate to add up what I have in my IRS, lol. I like a good challenge though and still open track mine so no SRA for me anytime soon.
 

Reload469

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I have the expectation I am going to brake something and am prepared lol.
t56 has the 26 spline input shaft, rxt, built with the gearbox stage 2 kit, and the nm2b no lift shift.
my stock half shafts are holding up well with the stiff wall slick. i know ill need to get the pro levels or the other high end kit eventually. ill have to get the t-bird iron center section eventually as well. i guess this is why so many people switch to a solid. much easier to setup and way cheaper.
Where are most of the IRS die-hard guys sourcing the tbird center? I keep seeing references to this part of beefing up the IRS but this seems like it would be a difficult part to get your hands on.
 

black-plasma

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Where are most of the IRS die-hard guys sourcing the tbird center? I keep seeing references to this part of beefing up the IRS but this seems like it would be a difficult part to get your hands on.

Junkyards or t-bird forums. Took me awhile to find one and that was a couple years ago. Prolly not needed under 700rwtq. I was 777/744 when my aluminum one started to warp.
 

Reload469

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Junkyards or t-bird forums. Took me awhile to find one and that was a couple years ago. Prolly not needed under 700rwtq. I was 777/744 when my aluminum one started to warp.
I'm hoping to stick with the IRS on my 3.4L build so 800+ ft lbs when I finally get the balls to spin the blower at max. Just trying to plan ahead on my suspension mods and start keeping my eye out for a good tbird center.
 

SVT_Troy

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I think i might have a fully built IRS minus the T-bird center..... FTBR everything, wavetrac diff, OEM 3.55's, G-force axles, corrected, pinion angle, 26 spline input shaft on a mild built T56 (will go magnum once something gives again) and 15" welds. I'm still undecided on the size bias ply i'm going to go with this year. I'm between a 26/27/28" tire. I'm in between going 26 & 27". I've heard the 27" is the best option with 3.55's but still looking into it.

I'm trying to stick with the IRS but if I break something back there again this year I may seriously consider a SRA.
 

Reload469

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I think i might have a fully built IRS minus the T-bird center..... FTBR everything, wavetrac diff, OEM 3.55's, G-force axles, corrected, pinion angle, 26 spline input shaft on a mild built T56 (will go magnum once something gives again) and 15" welds. I'm still undecided on the size bias ply i'm going to go with this year. I'm between a 26/27/28" tire. I'm in between going 26 & 27". I've heard the 27" is the best option with 3.55's but still looking into it.

I'm trying to stick with the IRS but if I break something back there again this year I may seriously consider a SRA.
Has anyone broken a set of the G-Force axles yet? They're made in my hometown so I'd really like to buy a set to support local business. I haven't heard of anyone breaking them but they're definitely pretty pricey.
 

ITSTOCK

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I'm not trying to be debbie downer, but as someone who REALLY tried to make the IRS work, it's not worth it if your goal is to launch hard and do the 1/4.

If you go to auto, you can probably keep the IRS assuming it's built. If you have a turbo, you can probably keep the IRS assuming it's built. If you don't launch hard and want to keep 60's in the high 1.4's to 1.5's, you can make it last.

If you want low 1.4's/1.3's or quicker, here is what happens when you have a blower car, IRS, and 6 speed. You break. Constantly. Your "built" T-56 will break the output shaft unless you upgraded that. It will happen on a hard launch if you have a built IRS. I promise you that. Your IRS is going to need half shafts (the G force half shafts are by far the best on the market, they aren't going to break), a diff cover with preload bolts (this is going to save your main caps and all kinds of other parts from breaking, including to a point, the center section), a center section (this is the next weak point), then you are still going to break the inner workings of the 8.8 (ring gear, spider gears, clutch pack will need to be upgraded to something like a wave trac, etc).

IT ISN'T WORTH IT. Either don't launch hard and be happy with 1.5's, or go to a solid.
 

ITSTOCK

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Has anyone broken a set of the G-Force axles yet? They're made in my hometown so I'd really like to buy a set to support local business. I haven't heard of anyone breaking them but they're definitely pretty pricey.

I had them in my IRS. There isn't a better half shaft out there. They are NOT going to break.
 

Reload469

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I had them in my IRS. There isn't a better half shaft out there. They are NOT going to break.
Good to hear.

Apologies OP, accidentally got a little off topic. I'm personally really excited to test out my Viking coilovers. Even if I don't end up cutting 1.3/1.4 with them, they can't possibly be worse than the stock 100k mile suspension that I pulled for em. Stoked to take em for a spin.
 

ITSTOCK

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I went 1.44 on 100% stock 30k mile suspension.

Another thing to note, if I kept the 2 step below 3800, I could go high 1.4's all day and not break anything. As soon as I started creeping up on 4000+, the 60 would drop but it was hit or miss on breaking parts.
 

black-plasma

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I will just say the pro level half shafts from DSS are a great option also. I have no experience with the g force since they are new. You won’t break the pro’s though. I’ve broke a stock and a level 5, mainly due to my latest clutch setup and not being able to slip it. I never had half shafts issues with the RXT, it just didn’t last as long as I wanted. Im curious what the weak link will be next, probably the T56 itself. I am running the stage 2 upgrade kit and no issues so far.
 

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