What did you do for your Terminator today?

@Stage 4.6

Did you or does your magnum have some of the case ground down for clutch fork clearance?

Not sure if AED installed the adj. pivot ball but after looking in there today, pretty sure mine isn't modified. I can actually see the fork hitting the front of the case, and it's tight against the PP. I kind of knew this was coming as I could run the firewall adj. until the cable was loose and the fork was sandwiched. Considering I just found this article, they must have had a rookie doing the install.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/project-vehicles/1406-tremec-magnum-swap-project-smog-legal-killer/

IllCobra said:

Did you have to loosen any of the header studs first or was removing the trans from the bellhousing first all you need to do?

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I know I'm not the one you quoted but my car has long tubes and I recently replaced the clutch and trans and I did not have to loosen the headers at all. Just separate the trans/bellhousing and it'll come out. Removing the shifter from the top side can help with clearance as well.

MG0h3 said:

@Stage 4.6

Did you or does your magnum have some of the case ground down for clutch fork clearance?

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The trans comes with a little bit of clearancing for the clutch fork but not nearly enough. I tried installing the trans as-is and the TOB hit the PP and I couldn't even seat the trans on the bell housing. I don't think you can totally fix this by adjusting the pivot ball. I ended up removing a bunch of material from the trans to finally get enough rearward movement out of the fork. I wish I had taken pics of the material removed but I didn't.

olympic said:

The trans comes with a little bit of clearancing for the clutch fork but not nearly enough. I tried installing the trans as-is and the TOB hit the PP and I couldn't even seat the trans on the bell housing. I don't think you can totally fix this by adjusting the pivot ball. I ended up removing a bunch of material from the trans to finally get enough rearward movement out of the fork. I wish I had taken pics of the material removed but I didn't.

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T4. I'm pretty sure my clutch would still be fine if AED or the PO had done this. No biggie...I'll bust out the grinder.

MG0h3 said:

T4. I'm pretty sure my clutch would still be fine if AED or the PO had done this. No biggie...I'll bust out the grinder.

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https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...um-im-getting-conflicting-info.1052764/page-3

Post #56.

Another reason I love my DYAD, no grinding of the clutch fork.

cj428mach said:

https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...um-im-getting-conflicting-info.1052764/page-3

Post #56.

Another reason I love my DYAD, no grinding of the clutch fork.

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Ya just wish it used an aluminum flywheel.


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MG0h3 said:

Ya just wish it used an aluminum flywheel.


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I assume thats because of weight? The flywheel on a DYAD has a large recess machined into it I wonder what the weight difference is between it and a RXT? In this magazine they list the DYAD setup as weighing 9.8lb more than the stock clutch and flywheel assembly.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...rive-system-on-a-2003-cobra-dual-personality/

Just ordered my lethal budget system with aeromotive stealth 340s. Id1050x next. Should work out good with the new tvs going on in a month or so.


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cj428mach said:

I assume thats because of weight? The flywheel on a DYAD has a large recess machined into it I wonder what the weight difference is between it and a RXT? In this magazine they list the DYAD setup as weighing 9.8lb more than the stock clutch and flywheel assembly.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...rive-system-on-a-2003-cobra-dual-personality/

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I’ll try and remember to weigh my 1200 when it gets here. But ya, I want the aluminum for the weight. It’s 12.5lbs vs @22lbs for the lightened steel according to what I saw posted on here.


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MG0h3 said:

@Stage 4.6

Did you or does your magnum have some of the case ground down for clutch fork clearance?

Not sure if AED installed the adj. pivot ball but after looking in there today, pretty sure mine isn't modified. I can actually see the fork hitting the front of the case, and it's tight against the PP. I kind of knew this was coming as I could run the firewall adj. until the cable was loose and the fork was sandwiched. Considering I just found this article, they must have had a rookie doing the install.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/project-vehicles/1406-tremec-magnum-swap-project-smog-legal-killer/

Click to expand...

I don't have a magnum. Sorry to here about the issues.

olympic said:

I know I'm not the one you quoted but my car has long tubes and I recently replaced the clutch and trans and I did not have to loosen the headers at all. Just separate the trans/bellhousing and it'll come out. Removing the shifter from the top side can help with clearance as well.

Click to expand...

What he said ^^^

I ordered the engine and console tags today. For anyone who has them, where is the best placement?

I got the car back on the dyno to make sure it's all good for this season, hopefully within the next 2 weeks I'll be making passes again.

TK1299 said:

I ordered the engine and console tags today. For anyone who has them, where is the best placement?

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I put one on the spot on the radiator cover that looks like a tag or something was supposed to be there. The other I put on the shifter bezel opposite of the cigar lighter.


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ITSTOCK said:

I got the car back on the dyno to make sure it's all good for this season, hopefully within the next 2 weeks I'll be making passes again.

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I see you updated your sig. Curious what you made auto vs manual and did you spray on the dyno?

MG0h3 said:

I see you updated your sig. Curious what you made auto vs manual and did you spray on the dyno?

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The N2MB box being used as a window switch was not working, not sure what's going on, but for safety sake I just put pilling for a 30 shot in. It put down a whopping 545rwhp through the TH400 and picked up 30 more on a conservative nitrous tune (should be able to lean it out a little and add timing back in at the track and turn that 30 jetting in to more of a 50-75 shot).

I was actually amazed at how much the TH400 ate up, along with the 9" eating up a couple percent more. either way, the 545 should be enough for 9.7's.

Damn so down like 100hp? Been awhile since I read up on this but you won't see 100hp worth of reduced ET correct?

MG0h3 said:

Damn so down like 100hp? Been awhile since I read up on this but you won't see 100hp worth of reduced ET correct?

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Correc, it should be much faster! I should be able to go 9.7's at 136ish. 25-27% loss through a TH400 vs 10-12% loss through the T56, and another couple percent going from 8.8 to 9" is what he said. It's just a number on the dyno at this point.

Got the car dyno tuned finally. Car made 450/465 on a notoriously conservative low reading dyno. Tested the SCT tune for A/F while we were at it and with the fuel at 14% richer base timing at WOT was 13; cars a/f was 10.0.
Car now has 18-19 degrees of timing and runs 11.9 at first tip in and at rev limiter is at a 11.5 and constant.
Dyno said a 1175 rwhp hellcat only made 1050 rwhp. But I’m still happy with 450.

909venm said:

Got the car dyno tuned finally. Car made 450/465 on a notoriously conservative low reading dyno. Tested the SCT tune for A/F while we were at it and with the fuel at 14% richer base timing at WOT was 13; cars a/f was 10.0.
Car now has 18-19 degrees of timing and runs 11.9 at first tip in and at rev limiter is at a 11.5 and constant.
Dyno said a 1175 rwhp hellcat only made 1050 rwhp. But I’m still happy with 450.

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Congrats. Even though there are a lot of insane musclecars coming out right now (for a lot of coin), 450 rwhp still makes for a very fun and reliable street Terminator.