Intercooler pump......13-14 vs. 07-12 cars

I'm pretty sure the factory IP from a 13-14 car flows more GPH than the one from the 07-12 cars. What I'm wondering about is whether the electrical connection from the vehicle harness to these pumps are the same plug.

For ex. if I have a 12 Shelby and I get a pump from a 13 car will the plug from the harness plug in to the pump?

Tony

BJ at VMP sells a kit to upgrade to the 13/14 IC Pump. Specifically the wire harness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if your going to swap keep in mind to check amp draw between the 2, make sure the wire is sized accordingly

Cman01 said:

I'm pretty sure the factory IP from a 13-14 car flows more GPH than the one from the 07-12 cars. What I'm wondering about is whether the electrical connection from the vehicle harness to these pumps are the same plug.

For ex. if I have a 12 Shelby and I get a pump from a 13 car will the plug from the harness plug in to the pump?

Tony

Click to expand...

The 2013/14 pump does flow more gpm. The plug connectors are different. There have been a couple of owners who have installed the higher flow 2013/14 pump on their earlier car and experienced turbulence and cavitation (air getting into the fluid flow), at their reservoir. The 2013/14 IC cooling system also included a bypass hose at the reservoir which restricted the flow to the reservoir and allowed main fluid flow a path around the reservoir, where the air is. Air in the fluid diminishes the effectiveness of the cooling system, and the SVT engineers found that bypassing the reservoir with the main fluid flow was the best option for cooling the system. I have picture I can add when I get home.

The best way to add the 2013/14 pump to an earlier car is to install the 2013/14 pump in the oem location (oem brackets, fasteners, etc.), use the VMP to extend the wiring from the oem 2007-2012 location to the driver side timing cover pump mounting location and then add the oem 2013/14 bypass hose/restrictor system at the reservior. <<This is virtually a plug-n-play on a 2011/12 with electric P/S, if you have a 2007-2010, the P/S steel line needs to be relocated, I have pictures of this also, and then the 2013/14 pump can be installed and look like it came there from Ford on an early car.


R

Ok thanks for the explanation. I have a 13 car and was just wondering about the electrical connector.

I've been asking about Steeda's HE which they say only fits up to 12 cars, knowing the connector is different between IP means the plug & play harness from the kit won't work on a 13 car.

Cman01 said:

I've been asking about Steeda's HE which they say only fits up to 12 cars, knowing the connector is different between IP means the plug & play harness from the kit won't work on a 13 car.

Click to expand...

If its only the plug is different (pins are the same) you could push the pins out and swap the connectors. I can't say if the pins are the same style but just throwing it out as a option --- this would keep it looking factory.

Cman01 said:

Ok thanks for the explanation. I have a 13 car and was just wondering about the electrical connector.

I've been asking about Steeda's HE which they say only fits up to 12 cars, knowing the connector is different between IP means the plug & play harness from the kit won't work on a 13 car.

Click to expand...

The 2013/14 oem harness/pigtail that plugs into the main engine compartment harness is like $11 from Ford. The easiest way to do it is to buy the VMP harness, and splice (solder and heat shrink) the 2013 end on that harness which would make it a plug-n-play extension cord harness from the oem 2013/14 location to the oem 2007-2012 location and vise versa. <<But this should not be needed on your car since the I/C pump does not mount on the H/E. The only thing electrical related should be the fans on your 2013.

Also, the wiring diagram colors changed between the 2007-2012 pump harness end 12V and Ground and the 2013/14 pump harness 12V and Ground, somewhere I have the colors and which wire goes to which for a correct connection between the two harness ends.

As I mentioned above.....I would guess that the only reason the Steeda HE is only listed to 2012 is because it has the mounting for the 2007-2012 IC pump bracket, that would not be an issue since your pump does not mount in that location.......but I would verify this with Steeda.



R

^^^^^^To add to my previous reply.......You will also want to verify the H/E hose connection positions between the 2007-2012 and 2013/14.



R

The hose connection I don't think is much of an issue. The outlet on the Steeda one is pretty well in the OE location like the stock HE but the inlet is on top pointing towards the pass side (makes sense since the 07-12 cars mount the IP on top of the HE in the middle area).

The VMP actually has inlet/outlets in totally different areas when compared to stock or even the Steeda HE (inlet is on the bottom of their HE pointed diagonally towards the LF corner of the car, the outlet is on the top where you have to reroute the hose from below the bumper support to above it).

It seems kinda weird that VMP wants the IP to push the coolant from the bottom of the HE to exit at the top whereas stock and Steeda has the flow from the top going to the bottom of the HE on the other side (in essence allowing gravity to help in moving the fluid through the exchanger).

One other thing, if you see the link to the Steeda one in the original post you'll notice that the HE has those little brackets tig welded on each side of the unit. The VMP and other HE don't have those brackets. They are there I think for the 07-12 cars to remount the little plastic air deflectors to direct air to the rad. I don't think the 13 cars mount the deflectors in the same way and those brackets could get in the way if you try to install the Steeda unit to a 13-14 car. VMP even says to trim off part of the deflectors on our cars to fit their unit in.

edit: anyways, doesn't really matter now. The fact that the Steeda harness won't "plug & play" on a 13 car means even with a better % off sale there's no point getting it. I'm certainly not gonna hack up the harness or HE unit to make it work on my car it would make selling it possibly down the road a pain for the next person (and my chances of recouping some coin back is reduced).

Again, we'll see what happens tomorrow for CM, I just might pull the trigger on the VMP regardless...............****, it's only money.

^^^10-4 on that^^^


R

For ease of install the Revan/C&R/Shelby 1000 unit with fans or the VMP triple are your best options.
Save yourself the headache and go VMP if watching money.
I bought the C&R with fans but ended up just doing a bumper delete mod and adding fans to the stock HE.
-J

Cman01 said:

I'm pretty sure the factory IP from a 13-14 car flows more GPH than the one from the 07-12 cars. What I'm wondering about is whether the electrical connection from the vehicle harness to these pumps are the same plug.

For ex. if I have a 12 Shelby and I get a pump from a 13 car will the plug from the harness plug in to the pump?

Tony

Click to expand...

The '13-14 pump is serious upgrade to the earlier pump and I run TWO in my cooler circuit, they cool like gangbusters. Biggest drop on a pull/run my tuner has ever seen with an ice tank. My trap IAT2s are awesome.
Point there though is your pumps are FAR superior and they do have completely different wiring/connectors.
Keep your good pump and sanity, go with the bolt in HE with fans
-J

biminiLX said:

For ease of install the Revan/C&R/Shelby 1000 unit with fans or the VMP triple are your best options.
Save yourself the headache and go VMP if watching money.
I bought the C&R with fans but ended up just doing a bumper delete mod and adding fans to the stock HE.
-J

Click to expand...

Here is the side-by-side of the Shelby/C&R Shelby 1000 and the smaller C&R H/E that is mentioned above.............





Van at Revan Racing always liked the picture above, it shows the core and also the fan viewed through the core. He especially like that view because it shows how an efficient core does not have to be thick, or shouldn't be thick.

^^^They call that a NASCAR core, hmmm, I wonder why??





At 200mph, trying to push air through a thick core is only going to slow you down. Efficient removal of heat while having the least amount of drag (air flow resistance through the core) is the name of the game.



R

Great post Robert.
Yes I bought the Shelby 1000 as pictured above.
I'll try to lead some pics but the stock '13-14 is very thick and in between the height of the 2 C&R. I believe the larger C&R is 11" fans and I ended up buying the same Spal fans but in 10" and used the 10" fans and C&R spal wiring kit to add them to my stock '14 core.
I have a stock HE and the Shelby 1000 I'll take pics of them together.
-J

biminiLX said:

Great post Robert.
Yes I bought the Shelby 1000 as pictured above.
I'll try to lead some pics but the stock '13-14 is very thick and in between the height of the 2 C&R. I believe the larger C&R is 11" fans and I ended up buying the same Spal fans but in 10" and used the 10" fans and C&R spal wiring kit to add them to my stock '14 core.
I have a stock HE and the Shelby 1000 I'll take pics of them together.
-J

Click to expand...

^^^^Thanks^^^^

I had always heard the C&R cores referred to as NASCAR cores and that they are very efficient at heat removal while being a minimal restriction in the air flow path. When I was watching a race, and saw that crash, I had to grab those Kyle Busch wreck pictures when I saw them............with a big C&R right there on the front of the core............PERFECT example!


R

The VMP Triple Pass H/E design is by far the best design out there. The reason the water inlet is at the bottom and the outlet is at the top is to try to minimize trap air inside the H/E. Justin at VMP is NOT stupid and he understand this.

If you look close to the GT500 intercooler water flow direction on our car. The water inlet actually is at the bottom and the outlet is on top for the same reason – minimize trap air.

Just go get the VMP Triple Pass unit and be done with it. I have the original VMP dual Pass H/E and upgraded to the 13/14 I/C pump and KB Bigun intercooler. Before the upgrades I can see the trapped air in the system ALL THE TIME (the original I/C pump is in good condition) when running. After the upgrades, no more trapped air.

Poisonous West said:

Just go get the VMP Triple Pass unit and be done with it.

Click to expand...

Yes sir, I look forward to seeing the VMP show up (ordered it Monday) along with the BMR K member and Rad support chassis brace.