This is a appendix to the post telling you how to upgrade your 2011 or 2012 Cluster to the Track Pack enabled cluster from a donor 2013 or 2014 if your happen to have an automatic.
The gist of this is - when you do the PCM flash to 2013/2014 to get the sensor data onto the bus - your 2011/2012 auto transmission is now expected by the PCM to be wired up as a 2013/2014 Select-A-Shift system. Most of this information really comes from jim010 over at the mustang source (and LEXiiON here)... but while there's a lot of information out there about the actual CLUSTER upgrade process - the auto-transmission part is not as well documented as it could be...
So - here's the skinny - once you update the PCM as part of the cluster install - you need to either add a physical block to stop you shifter from moving to the 3-2-1 settings - OR - you need to replace the actual shifter box with as 2013/14 and run a line to the PCM to make the Select-A-Shift work correctly.
REPLACING THE SHIFTER BOX
Expect to jack up the car to get underneath.
Inside the cab, you will remove the center console top part (lots of information out there on how to do that and how to unplug the buttons)
This opens up access to the entire shift box setup.
Now you go under the car.
I then used some of the instructions for the TCI shifter change to help guide how to remove the shifter.
When you are under the car an looking up - look for this.
The image you see is the "locked state" - using a screwdriver inside the open area inside the lip - press outward to allow you to push the part of the clip that is lower up so the entire clip face facing you is flat. No indentation in the clip. That is the "released state - then you will use a larger screwdriver to pry the clip off the shifter arm... it's not easy - it will stick. Work it hard and it will pop off - when it does make sure you DO NOT CHANGE the length of the line... (again - this is following the TCI instructions in general)
you also need to release the clips at the front of the shifter body -
Using 2 small screwdrivers you will push in following the arrows to push out small locking tabs - then you can gently pull down and the until will release... you are done! Now back inside the car.
Inside the car take a 10mm deep socket and remove the 4 bolts on the shifter and unplug it from the wiring harness... and REMOVE it.
Now - again - the assumption here is you will follow the instructions for the TCI to reinstall... the rest of this post is about how to do the 2011/12 upgrade.
Remove the gray female connector from the shifter box... and using a 2012 wiring diagram and a 2013 diagram - map the pins from the 2012 male that is part of the harness in the car to a connector you should have acquired ahead of time that matches the 12 pins on the new 2013/14 shifter. I basically built a female - male mini harness to accommodate the existing connector on the chassis harness to the new female plug on the 2013/14 shifter box. Once you get all the pinning right - you will have 3 leads left open from the shifter box - those 3 leads will be what you need to run to the PCM for the Select-A-Shift.
From those 3 leads you will run a set of 3 wires - I found trailer flat wire with 4 wires (removing one) to make this process simple!
Feed the wire along the right side of the center console down to the passenger foot area.
Run it along the carpet over to the right.
Remove the right fuse panel in the passenger foot area and you will see the firewall pass-thru.
Assuming the car is still jacked up - remove the front right tire and the 2 wheel well liners. Now you can work the wire through the firewall seal and follow the factor ywiring harness run along inside the wheel well all the way up the the front and up to the PCM.
Then - it's as simple as splicing the wires in the cabin to your mini harness and adding 2 new pins and splice into one at the PCM (per the information out there).
The part in the exiting writeups was the "how to run the line" - here are some pictures.
The wire in this pic gets pulled along the inside of the center console down to the carpet.
The wire from the center console runs along the carpet - behind it - so you don't see it over to the right. In the upper right - you see the rubber plug in the firewall that the chassis harness runs through - that's where we are going! Once you push through it - you are in the wheel well...
You can see the yellow wire running along the chassis harness... follow that along inside the wheel well to the front by the windshield wiper container and then up into the engine bay where the PCM is located.
When you get it all set - I wrapped mine in electrical tape as its in the wheel well so it's getting a beating from road debris... and then I also used a few zip ties to secure it in place. Then you reinstall all the trim and - you are repinning the PCM and are good to go!
Welcome to the world of 2013 / 14 Select-A-Shift!
The gist of this is - when you do the PCM flash to 2013/2014 to get the sensor data onto the bus - your 2011/2012 auto transmission is now expected by the PCM to be wired up as a 2013/2014 Select-A-Shift system. Most of this information really comes from jim010 over at the mustang source (and LEXiiON here)... but while there's a lot of information out there about the actual CLUSTER upgrade process - the auto-transmission part is not as well documented as it could be...
So - here's the skinny - once you update the PCM as part of the cluster install - you need to either add a physical block to stop you shifter from moving to the 3-2-1 settings - OR - you need to replace the actual shifter box with as 2013/14 and run a line to the PCM to make the Select-A-Shift work correctly.
REPLACING THE SHIFTER BOX
Expect to jack up the car to get underneath.
Inside the cab, you will remove the center console top part (lots of information out there on how to do that and how to unplug the buttons)
This opens up access to the entire shift box setup.
Now you go under the car.
I then used some of the instructions for the TCI shifter change to help guide how to remove the shifter.
When you are under the car an looking up - look for this.
The image you see is the "locked state" - using a screwdriver inside the open area inside the lip - press outward to allow you to push the part of the clip that is lower up so the entire clip face facing you is flat. No indentation in the clip. That is the "released state - then you will use a larger screwdriver to pry the clip off the shifter arm... it's not easy - it will stick. Work it hard and it will pop off - when it does make sure you DO NOT CHANGE the length of the line... (again - this is following the TCI instructions in general)
you also need to release the clips at the front of the shifter body -
Using 2 small screwdrivers you will push in following the arrows to push out small locking tabs - then you can gently pull down and the until will release... you are done! Now back inside the car.
Inside the car take a 10mm deep socket and remove the 4 bolts on the shifter and unplug it from the wiring harness... and REMOVE it.
Now - again - the assumption here is you will follow the instructions for the TCI to reinstall... the rest of this post is about how to do the 2011/12 upgrade.
Remove the gray female connector from the shifter box... and using a 2012 wiring diagram and a 2013 diagram - map the pins from the 2012 male that is part of the harness in the car to a connector you should have acquired ahead of time that matches the 12 pins on the new 2013/14 shifter. I basically built a female - male mini harness to accommodate the existing connector on the chassis harness to the new female plug on the 2013/14 shifter box. Once you get all the pinning right - you will have 3 leads left open from the shifter box - those 3 leads will be what you need to run to the PCM for the Select-A-Shift.
From those 3 leads you will run a set of 3 wires - I found trailer flat wire with 4 wires (removing one) to make this process simple!
Feed the wire along the right side of the center console down to the passenger foot area.
Run it along the carpet over to the right.
Remove the right fuse panel in the passenger foot area and you will see the firewall pass-thru.
Assuming the car is still jacked up - remove the front right tire and the 2 wheel well liners. Now you can work the wire through the firewall seal and follow the factor ywiring harness run along inside the wheel well all the way up the the front and up to the PCM.
Then - it's as simple as splicing the wires in the cabin to your mini harness and adding 2 new pins and splice into one at the PCM (per the information out there).
The part in the exiting writeups was the "how to run the line" - here are some pictures.
The wire in this pic gets pulled along the inside of the center console down to the carpet.
The wire from the center console runs along the carpet - behind it - so you don't see it over to the right. In the upper right - you see the rubber plug in the firewall that the chassis harness runs through - that's where we are going! Once you push through it - you are in the wheel well...
You can see the yellow wire running along the chassis harness... follow that along inside the wheel well to the front by the windshield wiper container and then up into the engine bay where the PCM is located.
When you get it all set - I wrapped mine in electrical tape as its in the wheel well so it's getting a beating from road debris... and then I also used a few zip ties to secure it in place. Then you reinstall all the trim and - you are repinning the PCM and are good to go!
Welcome to the world of 2013 / 14 Select-A-Shift!
