Disappointing Track Results

I'll try not to make it too long, but basically, I have a '14 GT M6 with 3.31 gears. When I was stock with Roush axlebacks, I ran 8.70s@89mph in the 1/8th at my track. Then I put used 265/40-18 MT ET Streets on, and ran 8.0s@89mph with a 1.8 60ft.

After I wore those out, I switched to some 17x10.5 Weld RTS rears with 315/35-17 NT05Rs, and ran identical 1.8 60ft, 8.0@89 times.

Then, I did cat deletes, JLT intake, and a Lund tune, and ran a best of 7.96@89mph with a 1.7 60ft. It was crazy hot and humid in July when I ran that though, so I was thinking I'd be faster in better weather.

Fast forward to last night when we had great air and temps. Now I have everything mentioned, plus BMR drag springs, adjustable panhard rod, lower control arms, and relocation brackets. I ran 1.8 60-8.000@92mph, 1.8 60-7.95@90mph, and 1.9 60-7.99@90mph.

I'm happy that my mph has finally increased, but I was hoping to drop more than just half a tenth with everything I've done to the car compared to what it ran bone stock with 18" radials on the stock wheels. The best method I've found is revving up to 4500rpms, then slipping the clutch off the line so it won't spin. I'm really not sure what else to do besides buying some slicks to just dump it off the line.

Any recommendations? I was really hoping to get 7.70s or so, since it seems every other bolt on manual coyote is a few tenths faster

Tires are killing you. I would've went with a 15×10 bias ply. That mph is right in 7.7 7.6 territory. I've done it in 2 different cars with cat deletes and tires. Consistent 7.5 7.6s leaving at 4500.

Not saying it cant be done with the 17s but the bias ply is a little more forgiving

Would these be good for me? It would save me a little money by sticking with 17s

Sn8kebitten said:

Would these be good for me? It would save me a little money by sticking with 17s

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Mph in good air and a 1.70 60 should be 92 ish. What rpm you shifting at?

Jdm351 said:

Mph in good air and a 1.70 60 should be 92 ish. What rpm you shifting at?

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When I cut the 1.7 60ft, that was when I still had all stock suspension, but had the tune and what not. But that was also in July when it was super muggy out, and had a density altitude of 2700, which is the reason I assumed I was only trapping 89mph every pass that day. The DA was probably half that or lower last night, when I ran 90-92mph.

I shift at 7k every shift. Tried experimenting with that last night, shifting around 7200rpms, but that only netted me the 7.99 run I mentioned.

Also looking at these Hoosiers for nearly the same price as those MTs. Any reviews on which one would hook better, or last longer? It's only a 28x10 versus the 28x11.5 MT though. Not sure which would be more beneficial

The Hoosier is a drag slick and will out hook the M/T bias DOT tire every time.

Are you still running the stock traction lock rear? If so you need to think about swapping it before you start running a sticky tire as it wont last long when those tires start hooking.

Get a 2step and run a 15” Bias-ply tire or slick. It will help you with your launches. Deciding between the 2 tires is just preference, both good choices.


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I ran a 7.65 in my 2014 manual with 3.73 gears, off road x, gt500 quad mufflers, mgw race spec shifter, bmr Panhard, springs, Lca, uca, relocation brackets and a lund tune. Oh, and I was on a continental DW 285/35/19 street tire. Driver mod is the problem here I think. I was cutting your 60fts on street tires.