IAT2 weirdness after TVS install. Caused by S-hook?

I see 30* above outside air temp for iat2 when cruising. Not sure what iat1 is I never pay attention to that. I saw an increase in iat2 when I went from a pullied eaton to a gen 1 tvs, I don't recall the exact number any more, think it was a 5* to 10* increase. Your plugs probably need to be gapped tighter, I would go to a regular copper TR6 gapped at .028.

Black02GT said:

Is coolant running back to the tank? Should be able to see motion.

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The coolant in the tank starts burbling and sloshing around. Does that mean that coolant is running back to the tank?

BLOWN9646 said:

Did u jumper the relay?

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Nope. Is assume you mean the relay for the intercooler. Where is it located? And what's the point of jumpering it? What happens if I don't?

If it's sloshing around in the tank that means the system is working properly.
Jumping the system only confirms it's working

Rich'sTRsvt said:

I see 30* above outside air temp for iat2 when cruising. Not sure what iat1 is I never pay attention to that. I saw an increase in iat2 when I went from a pullied eaton to a gen 1 tvs, I don't recall the exact number any more, think it was a 5* to 10* increase. Your plugs probably need to be gapped tighter, I would go to a regular copper TR6 gapped at .028.

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Man, that's weird--one of the big selling points of the TVS is how it's more efficient and runs cooler. Increased IAT2 temps under low-load conditions seem to run contrary to that.

Not to get off too much on a tangent, but I remember that my Cobra idled pretty roughly when I got it and I did a bunch of research to find a plug that would give a smoother idle. I'm pretty sure I went from a copper TR6 to the iridium TR7. I'm a little hesitant to go back.

Just to get air out and helps cool down quicker. Like in between runs at the track

BLOWN9646 said:

Just to get air out and helps cool down quicker. Like in between runs at the track

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I'll jumper the pump and squeeze on the hoses a bit--maybe that'll help motivate whatever air might be in there to come out. Thanks for the pic, too.

Yep hopefully it works. Ive read before people had to pressurize the system to get all air out. Please correct me if im wrong here its been awhile since i read that and havent drained mine completely yet either. Ive only changed the ic pump out on so far

TheFleshRocket said:

Man, that's weird--one of the big selling points of the TVS is how it's more efficient and runs cooler. Increased IAT2 temps under low-load conditions seem to run contrary to that.

Not to get off too much on a tangent, but I remember that my Cobra idled pretty roughly when I got it and I did a bunch of research to find a plug that would give a smoother idle. I'm pretty sure I went from a copper TR6 to the iridium TR7. I'm a little hesitant to go back.

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There were a lot of threads on IAT2's when the TVS first came out and most of what I had read had similar results. It is more efficient in that it makes a lot more power at the same boost levels than the stock eaton. But with it being bigger it heats the air slightly more, very similar to a 2.3 whipple.

I remember all those threads on spark plugs and I think I may have been a part of some of those discussions. The difference I had from TR7ix and TR6 at idle were so small that when I went to the TVS I figured that wot performance was more important to me than a smoother idle. I just figured if you already have a tune that you were having spark plug blow out. Plus I change my plugs out every 2 years and the TR6 are a lot better priced.

When I changed out the heat exchanger I took the top hose coming from the blower to the overflow tank off at the tank. I then put a different hose on the nipple of the overflow tank and then blew into it until the coolant came out of the hose on the blower and that got out all of the air pockets.

With the pump on, I squeezed and pinched on the hoses going into and out of the intercooler, and the one going into the heat exchanger (the one at the bottom of the HE) and after driving today, IAT2 only got as high as 130ish after a couple of short pulls (second and third gear). I think I might have it resolved, but more driving will tell. I'm still in the process of data logging to get my car finished being tuned.

Problem does not appear to be resolved. I got the engine nice and heat-soaked today, and then did a couple of pulls. IAT2 climbed to 150ish with IAT1 around 100F, and took a good 10 minutes of driving to finally drop down to about 120ish, at which point IAT1 was about 70F. So it appears that, once heat soaked, IAT2 sits about 50F over IAT1. That's just too much for me to feel like I haven't still got something amiss. And the previous "IAT2 temp drops slightly when boosting mildly but them climbs back up afterward" symptom has returned, too.

Rich'sTRsvt said:

When I changed out the heat exchanger I took the top hose coming from the blower to the overflow tank off at the tank. I then put a different hose on the nipple of the overflow tank and then blew into it until the coolant came out of the hose on the blower and that got out all of the air pockets.

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I'm about to give this a try. Just need to pick up some hose. You wouldn't happen to know the ID of the intercooler hose, or the OD of the nipple?

Fyi, I just went out to log and came back with the following: 6700rpm, outside air at about 85 and humid, iat1 is 120, iat 2 is 144, ECT is 182. It will rapidly decrease as soon as I get out of it but it get pretty warm. I have the s-hook installed and cleaned the shit out of my intercooler when put the TVS on. Afco dual pass he and 25/75 coolant mix with stock pump. Hope this helps

94slowbra1 said:

Fyi, I just went out to log and came back with the following: 6700rpm, outside air at about 85 and humid, iat1 is 120, iat 2 is 144, ECT is 182.

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Man, that IAT1 is high, unless you were sitting still in traffic for a while or your intake pulls air primarily from the engine bay. But.. sounds like your IAT2 is only 25ish degrees above IAT1. Does that stay consistent--like if you get moving on the highway and IAT1 drops to, say, 90F, does IAT2 drop to 115ish?

The run started at around 100 iat 1 if I remember. I can go back and look. Ill also check the delta between the two at other loads.
I run a jlt ram air with the plastic heat shield and it's still hot like that. Not sure what else I can do to lower it?

I partially drained the intercooler fluid (took return hose off reservoir, put into milk jug, ran pump until no more fluid), then reinstalled the hose and slowly filled the system with the pump running. There was some gurgling and some bubbles that came back up into the reservoir from the bottom hose, and then it ran smoothly for several minutes with no more noises.

IAT2 may be a little better, but I'm still seeing IAT2 drop by several degrees if I boost to say 10 PSI for several seconds, and then rebound back up those few degrees after I let out. Like if I'm going 50mph, with IAT2 at 130F, and then drop to 4th, give it enough throttle to generate 10PSI, and accelerate to 75-80mph, it'll drop to 126 or 127 during the pull, but climb back to 130 shortly after I let out and shift back to 6th.

Is that... normal for a TVS with the S-hook installed?

TheFleshRocket said:

IAT2 may be a little better, but I'm still seeing IAT2 drop by several degrees if I boost to say 10 PSI for several seconds, and then rebound back up those few degrees after I let out. Like if I'm going 50mph, with IAT2 at 130F, and then drop to 4th, give it enough throttle to generate 10PSI, and accelerate to 75-80mph, it'll drop to 126 or 127 during the pull, but climb back to 130 shortly after I let out and shift back to 6th.

Is that... normal for a TVS with the S-hook installed?

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That's normal for any car with any blower. When you are on the gas you are passing fresh/cooler air across the intercooler therefore your temps drop. Close the throttle blade and temps go up.

No different than at the end of a 1/4 mile run.....as soon as you let off the gas and get on the brakes the IAT2's shoot way up.

--Joe

This morning, I jumpered the IC pump on and removed the IC reservoir cap. After about 5 minutes, I hooked up my compressor-powered vacuum brake bleeder to the IC reservoir using a radiator pressure tester cap, effectively applying some degree of vacuum to the IC system. I let it sit like that for 10 more minutes. When I checked the IC coolant level, it was down by about an inch, and there was none in the brake bleeder reservoir, so I don't think it sucked up anything. IAT2 appeared to be lower and drop more quickly during some test runs today, so I may have gotten more air out of the system. I'll need to do some testing to be sure.

When i did testing years ago i found out that the ait2 sensor gets heat soaked. If the car was started cold the ait2 didn't vary much (maybe 20 degrees) from the ait1. If i stopped at a store, to get gas, the ait would rise 30 to 40 degrees sitting, drove around some more and the ait2 would only cool down to about 2 degrres from what it was originally. Made another stop and they would rise again by about 30 to 40 degrees. Again it would not cool down and now was 10 degrees higher than what it was originally. made a little simpler, ait1 would be 80 degrees and ait2 would be 100 degrees, make a stop, drive some more and they would only cool down to 105 degrees, make another stop, drive some more and the would only cool down to 110 degrees. My cooling system far out cools more than any car out there except for one other car i did the same mods to.

My intercooling system consists of a meizere pump, added a boost a pump, stock heat exchanger with an added 1980 VW rabit radiator plumbed in a series with the stock heat exchanger.