Engine knock, after clutch replacement

Smokegt

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I bought an terminator and drove it home, about 200 miles, noticed the clutch engaging at the top, so adjusted it which finished it off.
It had a spec stage two, clutch, pressure plate and a spec aluminum flywheel.
Called around and found ford stealership to do the work, and I bought a stage 3 XTD clutch kit, and a FX flywheel off eBay, when I picked my car up, I drove it about 15 miles to lunch, and noticed a tapping sound.
When I got the car back to the dealer, they inform me it sounded like a bottom end knock to them. Had no issues with the car for the 3-400 miles I put on it after buying it, and it wasn't "knocking" when I dropped it off. Seems odd to me for it to start that right after the new clutch. I didn't run the car hard to lunch, so I don't know. Any thoughts?
 

MastaAce03

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Does the knocking stop when the clutch is engaged?


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MastaAce03

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No, I don't think so


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Jump back in your car and make sure. When I had my 07 Shelby, it would knock when the clutch was disengaged and knocking would stop when it was engaged. Common issue with those clutches, may be the same problem with yours. Did you replace the TOB? Best of luck.


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Smokegt

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Jump back in your car and make sure. When I had my 07 Shelby, it would knock when the clutch was disengaged and knocking would stop when it was engaged. Common issue with those clutches, may be the same problem with yours. Did you replace the TOB? Best of luck.


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Yeah it was a whole kit, and thanks for the advice, I think it was knocking either way, but the car is still at the dealership, after I get through arguing with them I will check it. They said it dint start until it gets warm, not sure there right but that would explain why I didn't hear it when I picked it up. What did you do to fix your problem?


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MastaAce03

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It was a common problem with those cars and the stock clutch There was a TSB on it. I just lived with it. I would definitely buckle down on the dealership to fix the problem considering they installed the kit.


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wckdvnm

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Yeah it was a whole kit, and thanks for the advice, I think it was knocking either way, but the car is still at the dealership, after I get through arguing with them I will check it. They said it dint start until it gets warm, not sure there right but that would explain why I didn't hear it when I picked it up. What did you do to fix your problem?


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Is the sound random or constant? Mine made a intermittent tapping till today when I readjusted the clutch cable it was gone.
Trust me a bottom end knock is really noticeable and is constant.
 

MG0h3

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If you brought them the parts you'll be in for a fight for them to go back in there. Did you check the mileage before and after? I'd be amazed if you took that car and someone didn't beat the hell out of it.


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Smokegt

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If you brought them the parts you'll be in for a fight for them to go back in there. Did you check the mileage before and after? I'd be amazed if you took that car and someone didn't beat the hell out of it.


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Yeah, I reset the trip meter when I dropped it off, now that doesn't mean they didn't reset it again, but it had 7.3 miles on it when I picked it up. I'm very unhappy with this dealership. The only reason the car is still there is to see what they will do. I'm not paying them to do anything until I know what's wrong. I should have done the work myself, just didn't feel like laying in the driveway under the car and fighting it alone. More life lessons I guess. I have video of the car running before taking it to them, and pictures of the mileage as well.


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Smokegt

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If you brought them the parts you'll be in for a fight for them to go back in there. Did you check the mileage before and after? I'd be amazed if you took that car and someone didn't beat the hell out of it.


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Yeah I am afraid of that. If I have to I will buy more new parts to fix it.
I have dreamed of owning a sonic blue terminator since they came out, and now have had one for about two months, and have gotten to drive it less than five hundred miles.most of the miles I have driven it was in two days.


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CobraBob

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Sounds like you're in a stalemate with the dealership at this point, as far as what happens next. I would go back to the dealership and take the car out for a longer test drive with a service rep. Let the engine warm up and note when you hear the knocking. Depress the clutch and see if the knocking disappears. Don't assume anything at this time. A test drive just might shed more light on weather this might be a TOB issue. It is very possible that the installer didn't follow protocol and the issue is definitely related to that. Think of what YOU would have done had you performed the complete installation. You can't be assured at this point that the installer did all of those same things, or did them properly and to spec. Just some thoughts.

Is it anything like this?
 

NVRL8TE

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Happened to me once.

I put the slightest about of pressure on the front of my pan to remove the trans (as I've done 10 times before, but harder), and it was just enough to make a ROWDY "engine knock".

Have someone bump the starter while you look/feel the front of the pan for movement....


I swapped my pan real quick, and gone...
 

Roots-type

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I'd be amazed if you took that car and someone didn't beat the hell out of it.


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Exactly why I have a valet tune that won't go over 4k rpm. Not saying that was the case for OP, but something for people to think about getting for these types of situations.
 

98 svt

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I'm happy to hear from that the dealership is working with you at least.
If I brought aftermarket parts for install to a Ford dealership and there were issues, I'd expect the dealer to tell me to pound sand. That's a great dealership you found. They may be giving you a bit of a hard time, but at least they are still working with you.
I'm curious as to the outcome on this. That really sucks man, I'm sorry to hear it even happened.
 

cj428mach

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Exactly why I have a valet tune that won't go over 4k rpm. Not saying that was the case for OP, but something for people to think about getting for these types of situations.

Since I self tune I made a valet tune as well. I took my car to the front end shop for a vibration, I limited the rpm to 3500, pulled massive timing and capped the mph at 90.

I bet the guys were disappointed, lol.
 

Smokegt

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Since I self tune I made a valet tune as well. I took my car to the front end shop for a vibration, I limited the rpm to 3500, pulled massive timing and capped the mph at 90.

I bet the guys were disappointed, lol.

That's a great idea, but it's too late for me, I need a motor now, they dropped he oil pan and said there was metal in the oil, so I told them to put it back together, I will pull it apart myself and rebuild it.


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Smokegt

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Thanks for the great replies, here is an update. The dealer agreed to check on it by pulling the oil pan and this they did. Then said there was metal in the pan and said it would be 900.00 to pull it apart. I told them to put it back together and I will get the car this weekend. I can't believe the motor is bad, and even more I can't believe I thought I was doing the right thing by having a dealership work on my car. I may wind up rebuilding the motor, but this time I will do all of the assembly and only have some one else do the machine work. I will be checking the car over real well when I get it back to make sure it is in fact the engine. I will up date this post when I know more.


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