PCM Flashing with FI

wildman926

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What is the correct method you have to perform to flash a new PCM and swap out the old one with FI at the dealership? Do you even have to take the car to the dealership?
 

wildman926

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I am speaking about if you are having a PCM bad or going bad, and are boosted, what is the correct way to get it swapped out?
 

basspro302

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You will need the dealer to program it with the stock file then you will flash it with your custom tune.
 

Riptide

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If you are using HPTuner and the strategy changed between the two tunes you will need four credits to do it fyi. Two licenses for each.
 

5lho

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I think it's done through the OBD2 port so, yes, you'd need the car at the dealer. What makes you think the PCM is bad?
 

wildman926

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Well, first off, I have a code of P0098. , which is Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High. I have a good sensor, and measure the correct sensor resistance based upon the temperature of the engine. I also read the same resistance at the cowl connector between pings 56 and 36. I don’t see a reference voltage of +5v from either pin. My AFR reads 14 on the dash gauge for about 5 secs, and then goes wide open at 20. I am thinking I have a PCM going south. Someone mentioned it could be a bad ground to pcm. I am not sure where to check for that. Car is a 2013 Mustang GT, VMP Gen2r with upgraded HE.
 

basspro302

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You will have to bring the car to the dealer.

Did you just install the supercharger? Chances are something else is going on, I haven't heard or seen any failures on these ecu's.

For what its worth most of the time using the ohm meter to diagnose wiring issues,component and pcm issues can lead to false conclusions. Im not saying its always wrong but you want to do loaded circuit testing whenever possible.

I havent worked on a tvs car but i think the connector has to be repinned to add the iat2 so there could be an issue there with it being in the wrong spot.


These are a few videos that might help you out in diagnosing the problem.
 

wildman926

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Thanks for the response basspro.

Yes, I installed the TVS per the instructions from VPM (not very good BTW).

Multimeters are absolutely the best used for throubleshooting wiring issues. I have used them for 30 years working on various equipment. As I said in my previous post, I did measure for continuity which shows there is a clear path in the circuit between pins. I also measured the IAT2 sensor resistance when the engine was at room temp, and at operating temp, and the resistance was within spec for both temps according to a Ford Service Manual. I also measured the same resistance at the end of the cowl connector that plugs into the pcm using both pins 56 (5v ref) and 36 (iat2 input). I have checked to ensure I have the correct pins multiple times. The pins are also locked into the cable connector, and I have also ensured that they are seating by squeezing them closed slightly, plugging cable in, remove cable, and then inspect those pins. They are back to being opened up, and a tad shiny on the inside from the contact made.

I have worked with a well known tuner (not VMP, totally useless with this problem) and he verified my troubleshooting, and also believes it is the pcm.

I have a new pcm and the car is scheduled to go to the shop this Friday 8/11.
 

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wildman926

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Forgot to add, yes, I installed the TVS, along with billet OPG and CSG, Kooks super shorty headers, Pypes cat deletes and x pipe, magnaflow cat back with bullet mufflers after x pipe, and full rear suspension. I also upgrade the cooling with a Ford Performance Radiator and SVT fan, along with a Mishimoto Oil cooler. The heat exchanger was also upgraded to the triple pass double fan model. This was all done in my garage with help from my son in law on the headers only.
 

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basspro302

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Well good luck i hope it works out for you.

Just want to say why i said ohm meters can lead you astray sometimes. Say you have a wire that is frayed through and only one strand of copper wire is holding it together will you be able to detect that with an ohm meter? No you will not the current that the multimeter uses to detect resistance is too low. Its comes down to ohms law. Any ways thats why i say loaded circuit testing is the best way ie using voltage drop testing.

Do you have 5 volts with the sensor unplugged?

Is the 5 volt ref shorted to ground?
 

wildman926

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You were on the right path all along. Glad that you're back up and running.

Thank you very much. The bank 1/sensor 1 went out as well. Changed it, no go. I cut off the sensor from the old one, and plugged it in, ohmed out the harness, all checked out. So swapping out pcm took care of it.

It is a blast to drive, and I have not even final tuned it yet. I can tell it needs some tweaking. It still shifts too early just normally driving, lugging it down.

Today, it is getting some new rear tires, and a/c work.
 

wildman926

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Glad you got it sorted out!

Thank you very much. The initial tune that is still on it. I am playing catch up with other things due to fixing issues with the car. I am enjoying the ac now..lol
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