Standing mile or 200mph people... What tires do you use or recommend?

Catmonkey

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Anything with a (Y) speed rating for the mile. With 900 hp, you'd probably be in the 160 mph range in the 1/2 mile, so the speed rating could be lower. Last time I looked, the Texas Mile did not allow drag radials, so you would need to look at the rules for the specific track you intend to run to see what is or isn't allowed.
 

deepblue13

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Texas Mile...Hoosier R7 front and rear...no questions asked
c4a697782e406b336d1edc75c982fb4f.jpg
 

Van@RevanRacing

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315/40/19 R7 from Hoosier Tire for rear. When we have had them made we worked with Hoosier Tire West in Fresno, CA. Depending on your set up the other item to look at is a 2.73 rear gear.
 

geoffmt

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whats the difference between the r7 and the a7? I have used the a7 for road course and autocross. great when warmed up
 

Van@RevanRacing

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A7 is a Time Trial tire so it warms up faster than the R7. Texas Mile just started allowing the A7 back in March of this year. I've never seen Hoosier make the A7 in the aforementioned size.
 

geoffmt

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we are running a 285-30-18, first time on a slick for me. looking ahead for the next set and I didn't know the differences between the 2 codes. Thanks
 

Bad Company

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315/40/19 R7 from Hoosier Tire for rear. When we have had them made we worked with Hoosier Tire West in Fresno, CA. Depending on your set up the other item to look at is a 2.73 rear gear.
Van

I understand the logic behind this gear change. I'm not arguing the point. It gives you an advantage of not having to shift to fifth gear, so you only need to make 3 shifts from the start to finish line. You also have less driveline power loses by running in the direct ratio of the transmission. Even a guy running an earlier stock motor with the 6250 RPM limit will net roughly 195 mph at the end of the mile by doing this 2.73 gear change with the 315/40/19 tire.

You clearly stated........depending on your set up. With that comment you are not saying this mod is for everyone.

What I want to clarify is if the car is going to be street driven regularly with an occasional trip to a 1/2 mile or mile race over the course of ownership this mod will create a down side for these people. Because it will make for a miserable time in traffic in urban areas with constant stop and go traffic. The 2.73 rear gear will more than likely require you as a driver to slip the clutch heavily to pull off from a traffic light or stop sign, let alone if you get caught in a traffic jam. This gear change will be hard on clutches. To those tempted to go mile racing keep in mind what you truly want the car to do for the majority of your seat time in the car.
 

blowbye

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I have a couple axles for the car so i can set up a few rear ends. Car does get street driven mostly but only a few thousand a year. What do you recommend as far as suspension setup?

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Bad Company

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I would do a CorteX Racing Watts Link, Torque Arm, LCA and LCA relocation brackets. All pivot points in the rear suspension would utilize spherical bearings, no bushings allowed LOL

The front suspension would be the Maximum Motorsport K-member with stock control arms. At this point you can opt to use the stock bushing on the LCA or use Ford Racing's poly bushing kit.

Struts and shocks would depend on what your original parts are. My car came with the adjustable Bilstein struts and shocks. I retained them and installed Ford Racing springs part number M-5300-L to have a slightly stiffer spring with roughly a 1" drop for reduced aerodynamic drag. If you have a earlier car with stock struts, you'll want to upgrade them. Koni, Eibach, Bilstein and Tokico manufacture good performance struts and dampers for these cars.

Swaybars I'd go with the biggest Eibach kit with and adjustable front and non-adjustable rear. You can tune the car with the Watts Link roll center for understeer/oversteer characteristics
 

blowbye

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268c2b109414286f1dfb939793aaba90.jpg


Looks like i have most of the necessities ill have to make a few changes in the front
17be1d2a065f6cf280e26ee0683860c8.jpg

Rear runs a bmr watts link that has been welded to the axle. I have solid heims everywhere except on the a arms wich are poly... I built it to be a roll race car as that is what is popular around me, id like to branch out to half mile or mile events just looking for what else would be needed before i went. Wheel size play a factor or is just best to keep wheel weight down?

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Bad Company

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268c2b109414286f1dfb939793aaba90.jpg


Looks like i have most of the necessities ill have to make a few changes in the front
17be1d2a065f6cf280e26ee0683860c8.jpg

Rear runs a bmr watts link that has been welded to the axle. I have solid heims everywhere except on the a arms wich are poly... I built it to be a roll race car as that is what is popular around me, id like to branch out to half mile or mile events just looking for what else would be needed before i went. Wheel size play a factor or is just best to keep wheel weight down?

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app
The reason I like the Torque Arm in the rear suspension is the fact the Instant Center is constantly moving with the factory 3 point suspension system. Once you remove the upper control arm and install the TA, the Instant Center never migrates as the body rises or drops on the springs as the car travels over different road surface conditions. The factory 3 point will change the Instant Center of the rear suspension as it travels through its range of motion. This can cause traction issues to occur at the most inopportune time with the worst being snap oversteer. Fortunately with all 1/2 mile and mile events the surface is flat and you'll experience only small changes in this as you go down the course. Having all spherical bearings in the rear suspension allows for it to move with free roll travel without any bushing induced binding, which would be similar to running a slightly stiffer spring.

Your are dictated by the tire to a 19"x 11" wheel. Try to buy the lightest one possible. The weight of the tire/wheel combo is both unsprung weight that influences how the suspension reacts. Plus the more weight in this combo the harder it becomes to accelerate to top speed and once you've achieved top speed this weight becomes stored kinetic energy similar to a flywheel that you must now stop.
 

Bad Company

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I meant to add this too.

I favor the MM K-Member because it raises the roll center of the front suspension for a lowered car. Also the MM K-Member has more rigidness than the stock K-Member. Keep a close eye on the BMR K-Member and front LCAs for deflection from the braking forces you'll be applying to it with the high speed stops you're going to do during these events. If you purchased these parts 4-5 years ago pay particular attention to the LCAs, these were showing signs of cracking when used in road racing due to hard braking. BMR has revised the LCAs since then. This is another reason I like the MM K-Member as it uses the original LCA from Ford, which are extremely robust.
 

Van@RevanRacing

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Van

I understand the logic behind this gear change. I'm not arguing the point. It gives you an advantage of not having to shift to fifth gear, so you only need to make 3 shifts from the start to finish line. You also have less driveline power loses by running in the direct ratio of the transmission. Even a guy running an earlier stock motor with the 6250 RPM limit will net roughly 195 mph at the end of the mile by doing this 2.73 gear change with the 315/40/19 tire.

You clearly stated........depending on your set up. With that comment you are not saying this mod is for everyone.

What I want to clarify is if the car is going to be street driven regularly with an occasional trip to a 1/2 mile or mile race over the course of ownership this mod will create a down side for these people. Because it will make for a miserable time in traffic in urban areas with constant stop and go traffic. The 2.73 rear gear will more than likely require you as a driver to slip the clutch heavily to pull off from a traffic light or stop sign, let alone if you get caught in a traffic jam. This gear change will be hard on clutches. To those tempted to go mile racing keep in mind what you truly want the car to do for the majority of your seat time in the car.

It's not too far off of a 3.31 OEM gear in 07-09 GT500's and 13-14 GT500's. Couple that with a smaller tire in the rear (the Hoosier I mentioned is 29-30" tall) go 26-28" tall rear tire it's not as terrible as it may sound on the street.

I've had drag race and street customers call me and we discuss their set ups and tire sizes. Most have changed to 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Similar to what I have done at that mile eliminating a shift they go back to 3.31 or 3.08 gears (depending on their set up) and they manage to achieve their goals and run out the back in 3rd gear and lower their ET.
 

Van@RevanRacing

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ET or MPH?

MPH increase as well due to the reduced shift and maintaining 3rd gear out the back.

Testing the mile car that I drive we used a 2.55 rear gear and wasn't concerned with the 60' just getting some test data and only shifted from 1st to 2nd and ran out the back at 145 MPH.
 

Bad Company

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It's not too far off of a 3.31 OEM gear in 07-09 GT500's and 13-14 GT500's. Couple that with a smaller tire in the rear (the Hoosier I mentioned is 29-30" tall) go 26-28" tall rear tire it's not as terrible as it may sound on the street.

I've had drag race and street customers call me and we discuss their set ups and tire sizes. Most have changed to 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Similar to what I have done at that mile eliminating a shift they go back to 3.31 or 3.08 gears (depending on their set up) and they manage to achieve their goals and run out the back in 3rd gear and lower their ET.
I'm not sure how to post this without the post seeming to be argumentative with you Van. Its not meant to be construed in this manner. I want it to be informative for members to understand the gearing differences. I've thought about how to post without coming off as combative or putting you down. This is the only way I can explain it

In the heavy truck world all trucks must pass a engineering review after the new owner specifies the option combination of the new truck he ordered. One of the things that must be reviewed is what is called in the industry is the start-ability or grade-ability factor in percent. What this comes down to is how the truck is being built for versus the driveline components specified(transmission & rear axle ratio) for the working being performed and whether the truck will be able to pull off from a stop in those specified conditions. Example would be a heavy dump truck(80K Lbs) that works off-road(soft soil conditions) versus a tractor trailer that never leaves the asphalt while never going over a gross weight of 50K lbs. What they do is look at what the first gear ratio of the transmission and multiply it by the rear axle ration, along with the torque output of the engine at idle versus the specified working conditions of the truck. They want the new owner to be able to start from a stop in whatever adverse conditions he plans on working the vehicle in without slipping the clutch or shock loading the drivelive by dumping the clutch above engine idle to start moving the truck.

Until 2013 all prior GT500 6 speed transmissions have a 2.96 gear ratio in first gear. The 13/14 MY cars have a 2.66 first gear ratio 6 speed transmission

Now lets do a little math to see the actual torque multiplication of the rear axle and transmission ratio combined in first gear

2.97 first gear x 2.73 rear axle ration = 8.1081 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear x 2.73 rear axle ration = 7.2618 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

Since the 3.31 gear is a fast gear for these cars and is stock in the 13/14 MY cars we will use it next

2.97 first gear x 3.31 rear axle ratio = 9.8307 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear x 3.31 rear axle ratio = 8.8046 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

now lets try a 3.15 rear axle ration

2.97 first gear ratio x 3.15 rear axle ratio = 9.3555 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear ratio x 3.15 rear axle ratio = 8.379 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

how about a 3.08 rear axle ratio

2.97 first gear x 3.08 rear axle ratio = 9.1476 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear x 3.08 rear axle ration = 8.1928 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

These comments are meant for everybody to read and comprehend......not for me to argue a point with Van. Everyone thinking of doing a dedicated mile or 1/2 mile car needs to understand what I'm writing if you plan on doing a gear change for top speed, plus driving the car on the street. You may also want to consider if you live in a hilly area where you need to pull off from a stop on a steep grade while tooling around in the car. The first gear of the transmission has as much factor when you look at the math calculations to starting from a stop as the rear axle ratio it is combined with.

As can be seen by doing a little math there are big differences in whether a car will pull off from a standing start more easily than another with different combinations of transmissions and rear axle ratios. Engine torque is always multiplied by each gear ratio it passes through before being applied to the road surface. You can also see that a car with a 13/14 MY transmission or a 2.66 first gear Magnum XL that these cars will be much harder to start from a static position compared to a car with an earlier transmission on the street with the exact same rear axle ratio. In fact the earlier 2.97 first gear transmission has a higher torque multiple combination with a 3.08 rear axle than the stock 13/14 MY car with a 3.31 gear ratio. The 2.73 gear ratio with a 2.96 first gear ratio will finally drop below the start-ability of a stock 13/14 MY car.

For drive-ability the combination of parts makes the sum of the whole and how a car responds to pulling off in first gear of the transmission. This is something nobody ever thinks about. The other thing is not only is first gear ratio different, but the other ratios are slightly different as you go up through the gear box. I believe there are 3 different 5th gear ratios depending on the MY of the transmission. So my point is for you the reader to consider the sum of the parts to make a decision about modifying the car for a dual purpose application.
 

Van@RevanRacing

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I'm not sure how to post this without the post seeming to be argumentative with you Van. Its not meant to be construed in this manner. I want it to be informative for members to understand the gearing differences. I've thought about how to post without coming off as combative or putting you down. This is the only way I can explain it

In the heavy truck world all trucks must pass a engineering review after the new owner specifies the option combination of the new truck he ordered. One of the things that must be reviewed is what is called in the industry is the start-ability or grade-ability factor in percent. What this comes down to is how the truck is being built for versus the driveline components specified(transmission & rear axle ratio) for the working being performed and whether the truck will be able to pull off from a stop in those specified conditions. Example would be a heavy dump truck(80K Lbs) that works off-road(soft soil conditions) versus a tractor trailer that never leaves the asphalt while never going over a gross weight of 50K lbs. What they do is look at what the first gear ratio of the transmission and multiply it by the rear axle ration, along with the torque output of the engine at idle versus the specified working conditions of the truck. They want the new owner to be able to start from a stop in whatever adverse conditions he plans on working the vehicle in without slipping the clutch or shock loading the drivelive by dumping the clutch above engine idle to start moving the truck.

Until 2013 all prior GT500 6 speed transmissions have a 2.96 gear ratio in first gear. The 13/14 MY cars have a 2.66 first gear ratio 6 speed transmission

Now lets do a little math to see the actual torque multiplication of the rear axle and transmission ratio combined in first gear

2.97 first gear x 2.73 rear axle ration = 8.1081 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear x 2.73 rear axle ration = 7.2618 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

Since the 3.31 gear is a fast gear for these cars and is stock in the 13/14 MY cars we will use it next

2.97 first gear x 3.31 rear axle ratio = 9.8307 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear x 3.31 rear axle ratio = 8.8046 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

now lets try a 3.15 rear axle ration

2.97 first gear ratio x 3.15 rear axle ratio = 9.3555 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear ratio x 3.15 rear axle ratio = 8.379 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

how about a 3.08 rear axle ratio

2.97 first gear x 3.08 rear axle ratio = 9.1476 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

2.66 first gear x 3.08 rear axle ration = 8.1928 combined final gear ratio multiplication factor

These comments are meant for everybody to read and comprehend......not for me to argue a point with Van. Everyone thinking of doing a dedicated mile or 1/2 mile car needs to understand what I'm writing if you plan on doing a gear change for top speed, plus driving the car on the street. You may also want to consider if you live in a hilly area where you need to pull off from a stop on a steep grade while tooling around in the car. The first gear of the transmission has as much factor when you look at the math calculations to starting from a stop as the rear axle ratio it is combined with.

As can be seen by doing a little math there are big differences in whether a car will pull off from a standing start more easily than another with different combinations of transmissions and rear axle ratios. Engine torque is always multiplied by each gear ratio it passes through before being applied to the road surface. You can also see that a car with a 13/14 MY transmission or a 2.66 first gear Magnum XL that these cars will be much harder to start from a static position compared to a car with an earlier transmission on the street with the exact same rear axle ratio. In fact the earlier 2.97 first gear transmission has a higher torque multiple combination with a 3.08 rear axle than the stock 13/14 MY car with a 3.31 gear ratio. The 2.73 gear ratio with a 2.96 first gear ratio will finally drop below the start-ability of a stock 13/14 MY car.

For drive-ability the combination of parts makes the sum of the whole and how a car responds to pulling off in first gear of the transmission. This is something nobody ever thinks about. The other thing is not only is first gear ratio different, but the other ratios are slightly different as you go up through the gear box. I believe there are 3 different 5th gear ratios depending on the MY of the transmission. So my point is for you the reader to consider the sum of the parts to make a decision about modifying the car for a dual purpose application.

I have no issue with you Kurt. Never have actually we've just disagreed in the past. That is all. The OP asked about Standing Mile and 200 MPH and I've got years of experience in that form of racing and simply shared some of my findings and results.

Your explanation and information are trustworthy and compelling for those reading the thread and considering their application. Good read.

Hope you are well.

Van
 

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