So you want Brembo brakes

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stang99x

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I eliminated dust shields altogether. I later custom fabbed a cooling kit that ends up covering more than the shields that come in the retail kits.

I noticed those posted calipers that aren't stamped come with crossover tubes. That's a benefit over when I got mine as I had to bend my own...which is a giant pain in the ass. Mine didn't come with hardware kits either. Advance provided me a kit for free, the other vendor I had to buy the kit from and it was like $16. At this point the only issue I've ever had was my sorry ass job of bleeding the brakes ate some paint off the caliper.
 

JDos1

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Just FYI the crossover tube can now be purchased separately. Bending lines is very easy if you pack them with sand. No worries about collapsing a wall in and no using a janky tube bender. Just clean them out thoroughly afterwards.
 

stang99x

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Just FYI the crossover tube can now be purchased separately. Bending lines is very easy if you pack them with sand. No worries about collapsing a wall in and no using a janky tube bender. Just clean them out thoroughly afterwards.
I did use sand. It was a length issue. Mine had to be tight as dicks hat band since it was about .5" shorter than I really needed. But when I found that out it was already apart and it's my daily driver.
 

tgranber

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Can someone provide the dimensions of the brake sticker to buy off of Ebay or maybe a link?

This would be for the front Brembo 4 pistons for a 2011 mustang.
 

Evojayfi21

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I just want to make sure before I order these from autozone. So I'll need:
1.Left and right calipers (come with hardware)
2.Brake lines
3.pads/rotors
4.Dust shields
 

Coz

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I've already stated my concern about these knock-offs. If you are just using these for appearance sake on the street then you will probably be ok and whatever you order from AutoZone should suffice.

If you plan on taking your car to a track night or autocross event then I would recommend:

DoT 4 fluid such as Motul RBF600, Wilwood EXP600, etc. with a high dry/ wet boiling point (around 600/400).

Also, get some high carbon rotors such as Centric Premium or Wagner. These also have painted hubs and vanes to reduce rust. You don't need drilled or slotted rotors for the track. If you feel you need something more than plain rotors, get slotted only.

If you are using these for the street only, then drilled or drilled & slotted is fine.

For occassional track use get something like Hawk HPS, Hawk 5.0, or PowerStop Z26 pads.

If you are going heavy into track use then get a set of dedicated track pads - and real Brembo calipers, and stainless brake lines.
 

Evojayfi21

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Thanks for your reply even though that didn't answer my question...
The car will most likely never be tracked as long as I own it. It's a daily with stock brakes that will need to be replaced soon. They don't have to be as good as OEM Brembos but if there anything better than the stock base brakes then I'll be more than happy.
So if anyone could answer my question it would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Coz

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If you're using it just for the street you technically don't need brake lines since the Brembos (fake or otherwise) will accept the original lines. As you indicated, as long as they come with new banjo bolts and crush washers (I believe the Autozone/Cardone ones do) you're ok. If your pads come with a packet of lube, ok. Otherwise get some lube while you're at it.

Don't expect a miraculous difference over the stock calipers, especially if you had decent ceramic pads on them. New higher quality pads provided the biggest immediate benefit when I had the OEM sliding calipers. The benefit Brembos provide over stock calipers is fade resistance after prolonged or frequent braking. Since you won't be tracking it, you probably won't run into those situations.

If you've never flushed your brake fluid and replaced it recently, I would recommend you do this too. Even if it is DOT 3. If you have older fluid, new fluid will give you a firmer pedal.

Ford makes a decent high performace DOT 3 fluid that is inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-PM-1-C-Performance-Vehicle/dp/B000NU39IC

I would still recommend rotors with painted hubs if just for appearance sake.
 

JDos1

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Your listing is correct. I can't attest to whether or not the Autozone calipers come with the pad mounting hardware. Some pad sets come with them also, though some don't.

You don't NEED dust shields. The base shields will work but are a hair small.
You don't NEED new brake lines but while you're that far in the system there's no way I wouldn't spend the $100 and throw a set of Russell braided stainless lines on the car.

I have never flushed the brake system, however at every oil change I will take a turkey baster and suck all the fluid I can out of the reservoir and replace it with new fluid. Did the same thing prior to installing/bleeding my Brembos. It's also advisable to do this every couple of years on a manual car as clutch dust gets past the seal on the slave and contaminates the system, resulting in a dark carbon looking material building up in the bottom of the reservoir.

I found a tremendous difference in heavy braking over the base sliding calipers when I installed 4 pot Brembos. I had Hawk HPS pads on both. I could never activate ABS with base sliding calipers when running Michelin PSAS3's. They simply wouldn't bite hard enough to cause the tires to lose traction. I can do so with a heavy pedal with the Brembo 4pots. The Brembos have legitimately saved me from rear ending someone on more than one occasion. I'm 99% sure I'd have at least tapped them had I not have had the Brembos.
 

stang99x

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Your listing is correct. I can't attest to whether or not the Autozone calipers come with the pad mounting hardware. Some pad sets come with them also, though some don't.

You don't NEED dust shields. The base shields will work but are a hair small.
You don't NEED new brake lines but while you're that far in the system there's no way I wouldn't spend the $100 and throw a set of Russell braided stainless lines on the car.

I have never flushed the brake system, however at every oil change I will take a turkey baster and suck all the fluid I can out of the reservoir and replace it with new fluid. Did the same thing prior to installing/bleeding my Brembos. It's also advisable to do this every couple of years on a manual car as clutch dust gets past the seal on the slave and contaminates the system, resulting in a dark carbon looking material building up in the bottom of the reservoir.

I found a tremendous difference in heavy braking over the base sliding calipers when I installed 4 pot Brembos. I had Hawk HPS pads on both. I could never activate ABS with base sliding calipers when running Michelin PSAS3's. They simply wouldn't bite hard enough to cause the tires to lose traction. I can do so with a heavy pedal with the Brembo 4pots. The Brembos have legitimately saved me from rear ending someone on more than one occasion. I'm 99% sure I'd have at least tapped them had I not have had the Brembos.
I have to agree here, I noticed a large difference in my stock calipers and the Brembo kit. I think I recall saying I nearly whacked my head on the wheel the first time I slammed them.

While I get the reason behind people changing brake fluid, in my 20+ years of working on cars I have never once done it to any of mine. The only time I ever had any new fluid was after bleeding. However, it cannot hurt anything to change it and I can see the benefit of moving up to DOT4 or better.
 

JDos1

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Just for reference, those were real Brembos, or the knockoffs?
Yes real Brembos. AM had the LH caliper on Black Friday clearance for $110. I bought two, resold the spare, and purchased one from Tascaparts for $270ish. I bought the 2012 GT500 specs which came powdercoated (or painted, not sure) black with the white Brembo logo. The AM calipers drop shipped from a Ford dealer, Tasca is a Ford parts dealer.

I have to agree here, I noticed a large difference in my stock calipers and the Brembo kit. I think I recall saying I nearly whacked my head on the wheel the first time I slammed them.
While I get the reason behind people changing brake fluid, in my 20+ years of working on cars I have never once done it to any of mine. The only time I ever had any new fluid was after bleeding. However, it cannot hurt anything to change it and I can see the benefit of moving up to DOT4 or better.

I'd recommend changing as much of the fluid as possible as it will attract moisture over time. I'd especially recommend it if you have a manual trans for the reason noted in my above post. IMHO, if you're just streeting the car and never hitting a track (drag, autox, etc) then DOT3 will serve you fine and you'll likely never reach the boiling point. It definitely won't hurt anything to change it out regardless, any minor help that you can get for the MT82 is beneficial.
 

Replayman

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Great thread, thank you but I believe it needs to be updated. And correct me if I'm wrong...please.
The part #s listed on page 1 no longer are for the smaller Cobra R Brembos.
As I searched for "A1 Cardone part#18-5128", several websites come up with these re-manufactured fomoco brembos available...Cardone, Summit, Amazon, RockAuto, etc.. But they are now for a 2013-2014 GT-500 Mustangs...these are the larger Brembos and require a bracket for installation on my SN95 spindles.
Seems like they no longer re-manufacture the smaller Cobra R Brembos and have now replaced them with the larger GT-500 Brembos but re-used the part #.
 

stang99x

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Great thread, thank you but I believe it needs to be updated. And correct me if I'm wrong...please.
The part #s listed on page 1 no longer are for the smaller Cobra R Brembos.
As I searched for "A1 Cardone part#18-5128", several websites come up with these re-manufactured fomoco brembos available...Cardone, Summit, Amazon, RockAuto, etc.. But they are now for a 2013-2014 GT-500 Mustangs...these are the larger Brembos and require a bracket for installation on my SN95 spindles.
Seems like they no longer re-manufacture the smaller Cobra R Brembos and have now replaced them with the larger GT-500 Brembos but re-used the part #.
This thread was always meant for the S197. The SN95 would not direct accept this conversion to my knowledge. I did one time many years ago convert a 98 Mark VIII to 03 Cobra brakes, however there was a great deal more involved in that swap.
 

JDos1

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The information in this thread is STILL CORRECT for S197's.

Keep in mind this is an S197 subforum, not SN95. Just to clear any potential confusion for anyone reading this thread in the future.
 
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