Swapping aluminator

Famine · Jul 5, 2017

So im looking to swap an aluminator into my 2013 so i can have more reliability and turn the power up just a hair more. I plan to do the opg and cg at the same time. Ive never taken on anything this extensive; however, ive done everything else on this car including the vmp blower. What stuff should i keep in mind? Any tricks? Any good literature to help do it right? Any extra parts i should order ahead of time so i have less down time? Thanks for any help.

vortecd · Jul 5, 2017

The later ones already have the billet oil pump gears. There is a sticker on it. Search the threads and I'm sure you will find it.

Had my engine out this winter. It was pretty easy. Left the trans in and didn't even have to take the long tubes off. Pulled it from the top and left the hood on. Pulled the fan off but left the radiator in. Biggest issue was tilting the front of the engine to get it out. We used a strap from the engine to the boom to get it tilted. Dropped the k-member also. If you don't have long tubes you may be able to leave the k-member in

Famine · Jul 5, 2017

vortecd said:
The later ones already have the billet oil pump gears. There is a sticker on it. Search the threads and I'm sure you will find it.

Had my engine out this winter. It was pretty easy. Left the trans in and didn't even have to take the long tubes off. Pulled it from the top and left the hood on. Pulled the fan off but left the radiator in. Biggest issue was tilting the front of the engine to get it out. We used a strap from the engine to the boom to get it tilted. Dropped the k-member also. If you don't have long tubes you may be able to leave the k-member in

I wonder if there is a way to tell when ordering the aluminator? I would love to be able to order it with the gears already done. It probably still needs the crank gear swapped though right?

SHIFTYBUSINESS · Jul 6, 2017

Why not have a short block built and then swap your heads and the other various parts over?

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basspro302 · Jul 6, 2017

I thought they stopped making them.

fishpick · Jul 6, 2017

not hijacking here - was actually thinking I might do a built swap (or a 2015+ short block) and what @SHIFTYBUSINESS said - yank the stuff off my current engine and build up the long block.
One thing I'm unclear on - if you buy a built short or a ford 2015+ short - is it "bolt up ready" - or do you need to take things for the milling of the top of the block for the heads?
@vortecd - when you pulled yours - did you use a lift and a transmission jack - or did you do this with jack stands and blocks of wood?

SHIFTYBUSINESS · Jul 6, 2017

Mine was bolt up ready. I told MPR what I was doing and bought my head gaskets, head studs and a few other things through them so I didn't have to research part numbers. Everything went together fine. Not sure on the 2015 up blocks.

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krhonn · Jul 6, 2017

Just run the whole 15 long block M-6006-M50A1

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fishpick · Jul 6, 2017

krhonn said:
Just run the whole 15 long block M-6006-M50A1

Thought about that too - but I would still need to tear into it to do OPG (cheap insurance which is why I'g get a forged rotating anyhow) AND - you need to dink with timing components / phasers / etc so the 11-14 PCM can run the 2015+ engine... so...

krhonn · Jul 6, 2017

Not with the number that I gave. That's a drop and go motor made specifically for the 11-14
Still have to do opg and cs though

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vortecd · Jul 6, 2017

The cheapest way to do it would be a '15 shortblock. I wanted forged pistons also that is why I had mine built

I used jack stands, no lift. Also put a jack stand under the trans with a wooden block

If you find a '15 engine you would just need to change the cams and timing components and intake. I know the gears are thinner on the '15 so the chains probably are too so they don't interchange

Famine · Jul 6, 2017

krhonn said:
Not with the number that I gave. That's a drop and go motor made specifically for the 11-14
Still have to do opg and cs though

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This is the long block I've moved to at this point. I can't find aluminators and as stated earlier, the 15 should be enough. So if you have a 15 long block like the p/n you provided, and the gears are thinner, leading us to believe the chain is different also, what gears for the opg and cs should be used? I haven't seen year specific gears that I recall.

vortecd · Jul 6, 2017

The OPG will be same. If you look on MMR's website for instance they list 2 different part numbers for the crank sprockets

If this works right look at the 2 gears on the second row from LMR's website. In the goggle search it shows both gears side by side 11-14 15-17

https://www.google.com/search?q=tss...nk+sprocket+2015+vs+2014&imgrc=lgCJ-oysrYA_1M:

Famine · Jul 6, 2017

vortecd said:
The OPG will be same. If you look on MMR's website for instance they list 2 different part numbers for the crank sprockets

If this works right look at the 2 gears on the second row from LMR's website. In the goggle search it shows both gears side by side 11-14 15-17

https://www.google.com/search?q=tss...nk+sprocket+2015+vs+2014&imgrc=lgCJ-oysrYA_1M:

Well I'm guessing that if the longblock, despite it saying that it's a gen2 coyote longblock, says that it's for an 11-14, I should just need the 11/14 cs sprocket. I guess I could contact the vendor to make sure.

What is it about the cams, gears, chains, etc that won't work with the ecu?

tones_RS3 · Jul 6, 2017

basspro302 said:
I thought they stopped making them.

I'm pretty sure you are correct.

***OP,....why not just keep your current motor and add a MMR forged bottom end kit? (It's something that I thought about myself.)
You can add a lot of options like the MMR opg, MMR crankshaft gear, ARP bolts, and so on. They have a 1000 kit and a 1500 kit. It starts at 2K, but quickly adds up when adding the goodies.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...ge=product_info&cPath=4_30_31&products_id=356

Famine · Jul 6, 2017

Because someone has to do the work. That is beyond my level.

tones_RS3 said:
I'm pretty sure you are correct.

***OP,....why not just keep your current motor and add a MMR forged bottom end kit? (It's something that I thought about myself.)
You can add a lot of options like the MMR opg, MMR crankshaft gear, ARP bolts, and so on. They have a 1000 kit and a 1500 kit. It starts at 2K, but quickly adds up when adding the goodies.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...ge=product_info&cPath=4_30_31&products_id=356

tones_RS3 · Jul 6, 2017

Famine said:
Because someone has to do the work. That is beyond my level.

Makes sense.
Where are you getting an a brand new Aluminator engine?

SB302 · Jul 6, 2017

krhonn said:
Just run the whole 15 long block M-6006-M50A1

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Exactly...thats what I did.

SB302 · Jul 6, 2017

fishpick said:
Thought about that too - but I would still need to tear into it to do OPG (cheap insurance which is why I'g get a forged rotating anyhow) AND - you need to dink with timing components / phasers / etc so the 11-14 PCM can run the 2015+ engine... so...

Not true....changing the engine harness allows the keeping of tge mentioned components.

Famine · Jul 6, 2017

tones_RS3 said:
Makes sense.
Where are you getting an a brand new Aluminator engine?

I've come to the conclusion that I would go with the 15 longblock, so I'm not worrying about the aluminator. I wish I could change the title. I am still trying to get my ducks in a row in terms of doing that myself as well. I've still never pulled a motor before. I will likely have someone that has done it before swing by and supervise. Most likely whoever I borrow the hoist from.

Swapping aluminator

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