No rear sway bar?

96grimreaper

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Do I need a rear sway bar?

In the next week or so I'll be installing BMR SP009 springs, rear lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, adj panhard bar and camber bolts...all from BMR.

For the track I want to run a 15x10 w/275/50/15's (A6 w/3:15's). I've read numerous threads about the stock sway bar hitting the relocation brackets with the sway bar relocation brackets installed. Can I run without a rear sway bar or do I NEED to step up to one of BMR's or Whiteline's sway bars?

Car occasionally sees daily duties, maybe a few days a week and will see the drag strip as often as I can.
 

milas

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I took my FRPP rear sway bar off when I went with 15s and put on a Watts link. Can't feel a difference, other than being much better with the Watts. Mine is a DD too.

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jony51999

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Do I need a rear sway bar?

In the next week or so I'll be installing BMR SP009 springs, rear lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, adj panhard bar and camber bolts...all from BMR.

For the track I want to run a 15x10 w/275/50/15's (A6 w/3:15's). I've read numerous threads about the stock sway bar hitting the relocation brackets with the sway bar relocation brackets installed. Can I run without a rear sway bar or do I NEED to step up to one of BMR's or Whiteline's sway bars?

Car occasionally sees daily duties, maybe a few days a week and will see the drag strip as often as I can.

I can't say on these cars but when I used to run high power fox body cars we always put the biggest sway bar you could out back to keep the rear planted as evenly as possible.

I'd imagine the same thing applies here but maybe others have direct experience with it.


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bunits19714

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yes you need a rear sway bar- the stiffer the better - the s197 is a 3 link -pivot point is in the center hence you need a sway bar or other form or restraint to control body roll- I ditched the sway bar relo brackets and went with a whitline adj rear sway which mounts differently than the factory mounts and clears 10" wheels in the 15" diameter- you really should get a new upper control arm and bushing whether its a steeda, bmr, or another quality manufacture- the upper does more for these cars than the lowers do- bmr also makes a nice adj rear sway bar but it is a bit more than the whitline. if you go to stall the car with out the sway bar on with dr on the car , the car will wade up the driver rear and leave all ganstered. the wh.li. adj rear sway bar is kinda like a mini rear antiroll bar but for the street and strip- I personal really like wl rear sway it is a nice pc and easy to install, I pulled high 1.3's 60 foots with stock shocks and struts on my the old setup and motor. car is stable as it gets even at 165+mph with no front sway bar on.
 

96grimreaper

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yes you need a rear sway bar- the stiffer the better

Thank you, that's what I needed to hear. When finances allow, an upper mount and adj control arm will be installed as well. Currently, with all stock suspension, all I do is spin when launching off idle on the street with Pilot Sports so I'm slowly starting to build a base for a decent street/strip suspension.
 

bunits19714

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you will need a adj upper to adjust pinion angle after installing lowering springs- and the upper controls axle wrap which loads and unloads the suspension- even if you don't buy the aftermarket mount because of available budget you really need to move getting a upper control further up the list- and set your or have set the pinion angle to the proper specs(prevents premature bearing ware, prompts proper suspension geometry.
 

blownby

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second for the whiteline adjustable rear!
clears 15x10 w/o relo's like said as well.


i run on stiff 2 for street right now and full stiff (4) at track and car launches pretty straight! Happy blend for anti roll bar and a street setup where an anti roll bar is no beuno!
 

blownby

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And i did have originally stock sway bar and relo brackets and had to grind the sway bar a little to not hit the brackets.
 

96grimreaper

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BMR adj UCA with bracket is on order and still going back and forth about what I want to do with a sway bar. I'm going to run something, just not sure if I'll go with whiteline or BMR. I don't really want to deal with grinding the factory sway bar or the lca relocation brackets.
 

blownby

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And at the end of the day, either sway bar u get will get ur job done, plus the white line is adjustable and great for street or track and requires not cut or grind and works great!
 

BMR Tech 2

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Do I need a rear sway bar?

In the next week or so I'll be installing BMR SP009 springs, rear lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, adj panhard bar and camber bolts...all from BMR.

For the track I want to run a 15x10 w/275/50/15's (A6 w/3:15's). I've read numerous threads about the stock sway bar hitting the relocation brackets with the sway bar relocation brackets installed. Can I run without a rear sway bar or do I NEED to step up to one of BMR's or Whiteline's sway bars?

Car occasionally sees daily duties, maybe a few days a week and will see the drag strip as often as I can.

The car CAN be run without a Sway bar, however at higher speeds you will experience sway without one installed.

I ALWAYS recommend that everyone have a Sway bar installed in the rear.

On my personal vehicle I experienced issues with the Stock Sway bar coming into contact with our LCA Relocation Brackets, as such I'd recommend our SB023 if you're looking for a solid Rear bar or our SB042 if you're interested in adjust ability.

If you have any further questions feel free to message me!
 

milas

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Will any of these rear sway bars clear a Steeda Watts Link too?

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chris_302

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I've ran my car without a sway bar along with other guys at the track.
Just need to run higher spring rates in the rear. MM and other guys run the same with full coilover setups.
:)
 

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