How are these logged IAT2's?

Long time no post. Haven't done much to the Cobra just been driving it.

I took a log with Torque today playing around with it and got some data. I'm curious as to what's good and what's crap. I tried to search but couldn't find to much that would conclusively give me an answer for "guidelines" Are these acceptable?

80* ambient temp.
Highway cruise at 75-80mph, 125-130*
Pulled off the highway and did a run from a stop to the top of 3rd gear. Peaked out at 175* then fell back to the 125-130* range.

I have two spal fans I've put off installing. Something I need to get done.

Only mod IC wise is a off-brand double pass bar/plate HE.


Thanks.

That sounds high to me. In similar weather I cruise 110-120. In traffic I hit 130-140. I want to say I'm 130ish after the end of a long pull. The only time I saw extremely high IAT's was when my pump went out. They hit about 160 when on the freeway. I'd make sure the pump is moving fluid like it should. Maybe that heat exchanger can't handle the load.

Sounds very high to me as well. I'm generally in the 110-123 range. I've never seen mine hit above 135 after a pull. I normally don't drive mine in extreme heat.

Same conditions I drove in yesterday. 80 degrees and kind of muggy and I was at 123~125 cruising on the highway after sitting in some stop and go traffic. After a second through third pull it went to 135 then setteled back to 125. 2.3 whipple and I'm spinning it with a stock heat exchanger.

Sell the spral fans, get a 97-98 Lincoln mark 8 fan. 5000cfm on high, 3500cfm on low. Those cars had the better factory fan (any fan) of basically anything. There was no other way to keep the engine cool because the front end had very small openings to let air into the engine bay. They used a ridiculously powerful fan.

I had a spiffy shiny twin-fan Durale unit that couldn't even get to 2500cfm on high even though it was rated 3500 high. Kept over heating slightly. 220-240° etc.

You can get a 97-98 mk8 fan for free or cheap, and have it rewound/refreshed for $50-100 at a viable electric motor repair shop.

After the fan change alone, my coolant temps dropped into the 190° range at all times, and even after 4 back to back 40-120 pulls, it only climbed to 205°.

Another great idea is to get a fully opening 180-190° Thermostat. The stock and replacement style units don't fully open until 219°...

Before any of that, make sure you don't have any blockages or damaged existing hoses and components. If the hoses are over 10 years old, just replace them. They can get deposits over time that hold heat much more so than a clean lined hose.

You don't want to run too cold. 190-210° coolant temps are the sweet spot for complete burn and exhausting of fuels and gasses. Healthy iat's should be 80-110°, maybe 125°-135° after lots of wot pulls. A killer chilly greatly helps keep an sc cooler/more consistent.

Do you know what your coolant temps are like?

125-130 at cruise in 80* weather is high. 175 from a single pull is extremely high.

ITSTOCK said:

125-130 at cruise in 80* weather is high. 175 from a single pull is extremely high.

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Agreed. I would venture to guess your pump is not working well or intermittently going out. Remember these pumps are 14 years old now. Everyone should replace theirs IMO if they havent been done. I upgraded to the Lingenfelter Varimax pump. That thing is awesome. STAY AWAY FROM THE MEZIERE that thing was a POS, pumped weaker than my stock pump.

Thanks guy's for the info. I ended up going to the track and also logged a full run with torque and the temp hit 165. It was around 70* outside. It's still a factory pump. It's pushing pretty good still. I'll get another one ordered to replace it. When I mentioned spal fans I meant they were for the HE, not the radiator. Here's a video of racing my friend's termi-fox. Both cars are almost identical with mods/dyno pulls. The car hit 165* IAT2 according to Torque.

What blower is on the car? Which bypass valve do you have?
Do you have cams?

Nothing Like double eatons singing the song of my people.


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04MystiCobra said:

What blower is on the car? Which bypass valve do you have?
Do you have cams?

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Posi Port with 2.76 upper only. Factory Eaton bypass. Stock cams.
Another thing I need to do is the bigger res tank. I still have the factory one.

OP I am having the same issue with that heat exchanger. Had the car dynoed yesterday with a vmp tvs and was 150 charge temps at idle after a pull with a 3.0 upper only on 93. My cooler is going in the trash. If you notice the pump swap fixes things please let me know.

Nitrous SSC said:

Posi Port with 2.76 upper only. Factory Eaton bypass. Stock cams.
Another thing I need to do is the bigger res tank. I still have the factory one.

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A bigger ic tank did nothing to lower my temps. Mines a street car only. It's more for looks, unless packing it with ice during a track run imo. I sold mine and went back to oem tank.

I was logging IAT2s WOT at 125°-130° so the tune was pulling a little timing. I sprayed the HE heavy a couple of times with bug and tar remover and let it soak well then garden hosed it clear. I took extra time to straighten the bent fins and remove all the tiny rocks and debris between the fins. Afterwards I logged at 110°-112° WOT running the stock IC tank with 50/50 mix. I am contemplating flushing the 50/50 and testing clear water with Amsoil Coolant Boost since I have a bottle on the shelf.

Im running a gen 2 KB 2.2 which is supposedly one of the hottest running blowers and im in New Mexico which is also really hot. When im driving down the road i run between 125-140 depending on how hot it is, generally its above 90* outside. When i stop to get gas or at a stop light my temps will get up into 150-160. My tuner recommended me get the LFP heat exchanger and intercooler reservoir. Ill eventually do it, but i think as long as im constantly looking over at my gauges every 10 seconds, ill be fine.

mfrazier2 said:

Im running a gen 2 KB 2.2 which is supposedly one of the hottest running blowers and im in New Mexico which is also really hot. When im driving down the road i run between 125-140 depending on how hot it is, generally its above 90* outside. When i stop to get gas or at a stop light my temps will get up into 150-160. My tuner recommended me get the LFP heat exchanger and intercooler reservoir. Ill eventually do it, but i think as long as im constantly looking over at my gauges every 10 seconds, ill be fine.

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The aftermarket tank and HE will have little effect on iat2.

tt335ci03cobra said:

You can get a 97-98 mk8 fan for free or cheap, and have it rewound/refreshed for $50-100 at a viable electric motor repair shop.

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to go slightly off track, what kinda places would do this if I was gonna google search for them? The place that does our alternators and such for work didn't know anything about this kind of work.