Aluminum Driveshaft opinion

So,

Ford Racing - ~305
The Driveshaft Shop - ~385
Axel Exchange - ~425 (this one is branded sr performance, but pics show axel exchange as the manufacturer)

So Im leaning on that driveshaft shop one, but I don't know much about them, a ton of good rvws on that sr performance(axel exchange) but very pricey.


Help me out, any input on these is welcome.

Why do you want it? The reduction in rotational mass is worth about a quarter of a HP IIRC. Unless you are building a race car or need a custom shaft due to a trans swap, save your cash for something else.

Buy the Ford ds. I think it is the J model. It is a nice bolt in. You will not believe the wt difference. It does make the car more responsive for street and on and off throttle. Bad part is, you will get used to it and the improvement seems to go away.

I had a DS Shop one in my 2004 GTO. It was well built and really took the slop out of that car. Their customer service was top notch.

Ford racing on my Mach and had one in my 99 cobra. They used to cost like 200 bucks. Lol

olgreydog7 said:

Why do you want it? The reduction in rotational mass is worth about a quarter of a HP IIRC. Unless you are building a race car or need a custom shaft due to a trans swap, save your cash for something else.

Click to expand...

You saved me from writing THIS^

I thought everyone did it for the same reason.... to help curb the high speed vibration.. rotational mass lol.. im not new.

Same reason im getting the rear dif cover w/ lowering mount from ftbr. Im surprised not one but two people tried to throw sarcasm around this thread... appreciate your input.

FWIW I ran the FRPP in my 01 up until I swapped in the T-56. I bought it off of a local guy. It was the fox body drive shaft. I remember it being a little tight getting it past the pinion yoke, but it still fit. It lived behind a BB/S with a D1 and drag radials.

I think I ended up giving it to a friend with a fox on nitrous and full drag suspension. I'm sure the slicks helped it live a little longer. AFAIK it's still going in that car.

zPipes said:

I thought everyone did it for the same reason.... to help curb the high speed vibration.. rotational mass lol.. im not new.

Same reason im getting the rear dif cover w/ lowering mount from ftbr. Im surprised not one but two people tried to throw sarcasm around this thread... appreciate your input.

Click to expand...

I wasn't being sarcastic, I just know from years of experience that replacing the driveshaft from all the way back to 1982 isn't gonna show a power gain from less rotational mass. Vibration may occur from a steel shaft that's out of balance or worn U-joints.

zPipes said:

I thought everyone did it for the same reason.... to help curb the high speed vibration.. rotational mass lol.. im not new.

Same reason im getting the rear dif cover w/ lowering mount from ftbr. Im surprised not one but two people tried to throw sarcasm around this thread... appreciate your input.

Click to expand...

Brutal Metal said:

I wasn't being sarcastic, I just know from years of experience that replacing the driveshaft from all the way back to 1982 isn't gonna show a power gain from less rotational mass. Vibration may occur from a steel shaft that's out of balance or worn U-joints.

Click to expand...

I wasn't being sarcastic either. If you want me to show you the math to prove it, I will. But if anyone thinks the car is more responsive, that's just your brain trying to justify the cost. Much like countless dyno tests have shown that CAIs don't produce any more power than a drop in filter, people keep buying them. If you are having vibration issues, check your u joints or have your stock on balanced. The difference in weight is huge. I have an AL one because I switched to a T-56, it has a longer tail shaft and I didn't trust anyone local to cut mine down. But the fact is that the diameter of the drive shaft is small enough that the rotational inertia is pretty small. Man, it's your car and your money, do whatever TF you want. I was just trying to save you some money.

Not one person I have talked to said that by switching to aluminum that the car didn't stop shaking so bad. Also nobody has dispute that Bruces' lowering mount on the rear dif also helps reduce vehicle vibration.

Math has dick to do with this, nobody is talking about rotational mass, hp gains or track times. My car shakes like a ****in banshee. Its in good shape overall but there are still some 15 yr old parts that just straight up need to be replaced. Its called maintenance.

Im replacing both front hubs, inner/outer tie rods, getting the alum driveshaft, reinforced rear dif cover with the lowering mount, this is all for the sole purpose of ride integrity. None of this is for gains. My question revolved around which might be the best quality. At this point I will probably make my own decision based on these responses. Most likely it will be either the driveshaft shop or the axel exchange, I will do some more perusing the internet for rvws on quality.

If you get less vibrations after an AL DS install then you prolly had bad ujoints to start with. That being said I have an Ford Al driveshaft. Bought it used for $120....To me its not worth it for $300+

I have the shake in my car too after swapping the gears. I know it's not from worn parts because it wasn't there the day before and has been since the gears were swapped.

I assume the problem is because the driveshaft is now spinning faster and a slight imbalance is now amplified. I don't drive the car often enough and when I do usually not fast enough for it to be a problem, so I've left it. But if I were to fix it just get an AL DS too instead of having my old once balanced. Plus it looks better since it's not rusty!

zPipes said:

Not one person I have talked to said that by switching to aluminum that the car didn't stop shaking so bad. Also nobody has dispute that Bruces' lowering mount on the rear dif also helps reduce vehicle vibration.

Math has dick to do with this, nobody is talking about rotational mass, hp gains or track times. My car shakes like a ****in banshee. Its in good shape overall but there are still some 15 yr old parts that just straight up need to be replaced. Its called maintenance.

Im replacing both front hubs, inner/outer tie rods, getting the alum driveshaft, reinforced rear dif cover with the lowering mount, this is all for the sole purpose of ride integrity. None of this is for gains. My question revolved around which might be the best quality. At this point I will probably make my own decision based on these responses. Most likely it will be either the driveshaft shop or the axel exchange, I will do some more perusing the internet for rvws on quality.

Click to expand...

No, you are just replacing parts and not finding the solution. A balanced steel shaft will not vibrate any more than an AL one. Also, don't get so pissed on forums when people offer advice. No where did you say that it was for vibrations in your OP. In fact, in my response that you said was sarcastic, I specifically asked why you wanted the AL shaft. I don't know you, I don't know your car, and I'm not a mind reader. If you want an AL shaft for no reason besides having an AL shaft, go buy one. But there really isn't a value in getting one unless the cost of u joints and having a shaft balanced has gone WAY up over the years. No one was being a dick. Well, maybe I am now, but at this point you asked for it.

RX1Cobra said:

I have the shake in my car too after swapping the gears. I know it's not from worn parts because it wasn't there the day before and has been since the gears were swapped.

I assume the problem is because the driveshaft is now spinning faster and a slight imbalance is now amplified. I don't drive the car often enough and when I do usually not fast enough for it to be a problem, so I've left it. But if I were to fix it just get an AL DS too instead of having my old once balanced. Plus it looks better since it's not rusty!

Click to expand...

Yes. This is why engineers make the big bucks. Harmonic vibrations only set in at certain RPM. This is what makes balancing shafts difficult, because we often want/need few vibrations across a wide range of RPM. That can be caused by an imbalanced shaft, but it can also be caused by worn u joints that no longer support the shaft properly. If you could magnify a spinning shaft, you'd see it deflect and look similar to a jump rope.

I had a bad vibration at highway speed and traced it down to a worn tail shaft bushing on the transmission. I have the Drive Shaft shop one nice piece and no issues.