Turbo 2v or N/A coyote swap

SheldonRay

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A forged 2V block can be built for less than $4500 if you shop around and/or build it yourself. I personally just picked up a really nice used teksid block for $450. Machine shop work to prep block will probably be around $500. Complete forged and balanced stroker rotating assy $2200. Studs and small parts maybe $500. So $3650 ish for a lightweight forged block that should handle 900hp which is well above what I plan to make and more than a stock coyote can reliably handle. I could probably even drop that cost to $3250 or so if I just built it to take what I plan to make but I don't know how I might change my mind down the road so I might as well overbuild a bit.

Not saying this to sway you, just want you to have as much info as possible so you can decide what's best for you.

Thanks for the insight. That will probably be the route I got but I will be doing a coyote swap eventually in one of my cars. What's the sole purpose for your build? Race car? Weekend car?


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KEVINS

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A lot of cost can be avoided by not buying all the heavy duty parts for higher HP applications. That being said cars never go slower so you might as well plan ahead especially with a turbo car. All it takes is to crank up the wastegate to have more boost and that is always tempting.

ks
 

Sluggie24

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My car is just a fun secondary weekend car. I purchased it this past fall already supercharged with full exhaust headers back. The only reason I'm building the engine is because the power it has now after adding the intercooler is on the threshold of safe for the bottom end. (370 rwhp through auto which is like 420 through a stick)
 

Sluggie24

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Oh and I figured if I'm going to build the bottom end why not add some power so my goal is 450-500 rwhp with ported heads, blower cams and a bit more boost.
 

Sluggie24

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39 lb injectors, focus SVT pump, ken bell BAP and a super safe tune on 93 octane
 

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