1000 + wheel ... what maf?

installing a hellion twin 6766 kit. Intake piping is 3" with 3" to 4" couplers for the MAF.

I don't want to go stand alone yet.

What are you guys running?

I use a ba5000 meter in a blow through set up.

Same here.

Thanks guys, I'll be going with the same thing.

Go standalone. Don't waste your time with the MAF and stock computer at that power level.

+1 to stand alone if you can do so. Big stuff 3, Holley efi, etc have good options from $1800-3500. Some local and state legislature won't allow non OEM ecu's so check into what's allowed for registration.

I have a maf setup on mine that went from split (very annoying to get right) to large single. We are still fine tuning it tbh. I believe I have a ba5000 as well now. I'm going to go to the Holley efi or bs3 in a year or so. Far more adjustment and control, more drivability, power, less strain, and more accuracy.

I appreciate the info. I fully plan to go stand alone to take full advantage of the turbos. I'd like to drive and enjoy it with a 6 speed, and 850-1000 wheel for a while.

I've already begun a 5.4 dohc build with Sullivan intake as this motor still has H-beams and was not built with intent to go TT. Going to need a cage and an auto before I can really turn up the power and justify a standalone.

I run the Pmas HPX-E in blow through. I use a full 3.5" pipe and we have made 960 wheel through a th400 on a mustang dyno. Supposedly the mad will never peg and Can read enough air to make 1140 wheel in 3.5"

I will say, I would not recommend the 3" pipe and 4" maf housing. It made mine really hectic to tune. That's why I went with all one size pipe.

Sent from my 2PS64 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Good to know, thanks for the info.

I've discovered I can't run id1700's or 2000's with the stock computer. For any guys who are still on the ford computer, what injectors are you running for the 900-1000 mark? Or what injectors did you run before you went stand alone?

mkb116 said:

Good to know, thanks for the info.

I've discovered I can't run id1700's or 2000's with the stock computer. For any guys who are still on the ford computer, what injectors are you running for the 900-1000 mark? Or what injectors did you run before you went stand alone?

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You can run those injectors? I ran ID 1300's before switching to stand alone. However, you can buy a holley hp stand alone and run holley 160's and be almost at the cost of ID 1700's.

1300's is the max you can go on the stock computer from my understanding.

My tuner said he would never run the Holley 160's, because of the spray pattern.

mkb116 said:

1300's is the max you can go on the stock computer from my understanding.

My tuner said he would never run the Holley 160's, because of the spray pattern.

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Your tuner sounds like a stuck up idiot. You can use ID 2000's I've done it, you scale them just like any other injector.

The Holley 160's have made a shit ton of power on tons of cars. I can name countless members of this forum that make insane power running them.

My suggestion? Run from this guy. He seems more like a "tooner".

Edit: The ID2000 will run on a stock ECU car, however they aren't as easy to tune nor will they behave as well as some of the smaller injectors. For what it is worth.

Lastly, you don't need larger than the 1300's for less 1k or less. And HP ECU and "bad spray pattern" 160's > Stock ECU ID 1300's in terms of safety.

Gotcha, thanks for the info. Good to know.

The only reason I was going to keep it at 900-1000 is because of 1) the injectors and 2) no stand alone yet. As soon as I get those going I'll be well above 1000.

I've already been down the road you are traveling. Let me give you some advice....

By the time you spend the money on the slot maf, big money high impedance injectors and the dyno tune, you're at what it would cost to buy a complete Holley HP EFI system and digital dash. I went down this exact path a couple years back and wish I hadn't. Would have been much more cost effective and safe to just go straight to the Holley like I have now. I was able to ditch the big money ID1300's and run the $500 Holley 160's and used the money difference to fund the Holley 7" dash.

With the Holley or any other standalone and some aptitude, you can tune the car yourself on the street or track. No need to waste time and money going to a dyno and paying a tuner big bucks every time you change something. Also, it's so much safer. You're playing with fire at 1000whp on a stock PCM.

Take all this money you are going to waste on these parts and just get the standalone now. If the Holley interests you, we have group on Facebook specifically for mod motor guys and it's very helpful. It's called Mod Motor w / Holley EFI. Look it up.

EDIT - LINK TO GROUP - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1728023557521559/

Can any of the stand alones be used with the stock gauges?

I think the Haltech can run the factory gauges. But I find this so much more useful that I just wanted to ditch the stock cluster.

Thanks bad cobra, I really appreciate you sharing your experience, I don't have Facebook! Dam!

Any complaints about Holley stand alone?

Man, Holley efi is only 1800$ that's not bad at all! I looked at pro efi which was around 2500 I believe.

Anyone running any other stand alone car to share an opinion?

The Holley is awesome. I will post the pinned post we have in our group. Has lots of great info you need on the Holley. If you decide to buy it, contact me and I will provide a starter tune for you to work from and get the car going.



MOD MOTOR HOLLEY EFI INFO

There are several Holley EFI Dealers in this group. Click the link for a listing. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1728023557521559/permalink/1762740204049894/

There is a starter tune in the Files section in the group. Download it to your Global Files folder and open it in the Holley v4 Software. Modify the tune for the injectors and MAP sensor you are using. Also will need to be modified if you are using LS or Smart Coils. Other than that, it should fire right up.

If you do not use the stater tune provided, make sure you use the ignition and firing order in this post. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1728023557521559?view=permalink&id=1731843980472850&ref=content_filter

For boosted cars, it is recommended you use the NTK wideband sensor(s) vs the Bosch. The NTK sensor is more accurate, can take more abuse, and is worth the additional cost.

To get fuel and oil pressure, you need to get two 100psi pressure transducers. Holley sells theirs for quite a large sum, or you can get these ones and they work just perfect for about $16 per and plug right in. From my understanding, the Holley transducer is actually a Honeywell PX2AN2XX100PSAAX in case you want to buy the Holley direct equivalent. Also confirmed the Honeywell 150psi PX2AN2XX150PAAAX works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271576977896…
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell-px2an2xx100psaax.…

For boost control, Holley recommends TWO solenoids and another pressure transducer for dome pressure. Buying all these parts from Holley is very expensive. You can pick up two MAC solenoids on eBay for significantly cheaper. These have been confirmed to work.
http://www.ebay.com/…/Mac-boost-control-by-ge…/331326285322…

The Holley HP EFI systems that are complete come with a 1bar MAP sensor. You will need a different MAP sensor for a boosted car. The most common options are the 3bar, 3.5bar and 5bar. The Holley 3.5bar is good for most and is threaded so it can screw right into your vacuum block. Any of the 3 choices are fine though.

For inlet air temp or MAT as Holley calls it, you will need an air temp sensor. The plastic screw in Motorcraft one works great and is super cheap on eBay. There is also a metal one (BWD WT3085) that works as well, both linked below.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261777637963
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371802377347…

To wire in additional things like your FAN and other accessories like your shift light, you'll want the Holley J1 A/B harness. https://www.holley.com/…/…/hp_efi/hp_harnesses/parts/558-400

If you purchase the Holley 7" digital dash, you can buy the Holley GPS module and get speed and odometer on the dash. It's a very nice feature. If you have a 99-04 Mustang, Scott Steinman of Steinman Performance makes a very slick mount that gives it a factory look in place of the OEM dash cluster.

Awesome thanks!!

Did you go with the dominator or the regular one?