2012 GT Oil Pump Gears and what else?

fishpick

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Just thought I'd fish for more opinions here since it's always a lot of fun to help other people spend money!

2012 GT is an automatic summer driver convertible, very very occasional trip with a car club to the track, mash on the throttle at street lights and wave at Corvettes kind of driver. Not gonna be raced - but want to make her as reliable and "safe" as I can for as long as I can.

It's getting a Whipple Stage 3 blower installed by myself in another month or so... the pile of parts is growing between the blower, the BAP, the giant throttle body, the high cap IC pump as well as non standard stuff for a blower install like a Ford performance radiator and fan and a few other odds and ends...

Since she will be making some serious HP with this setup and I am going to tear out everything in the front anyhow for the radiator upgrade - I'm not cheaping out and am doing the oil pump gears as insurance...

So the question is - while I'm in there with the timing cover off are there other things that I should do. It seems like such a slippery slope at this point. Do I then do the crank sprocket with a billet one? What about the chain tensioners - MMR makes a good case for those. Then what about a more better than stock balancer/pulley? Obviously you can replace every damn part for a price on a Coyote...

But from folks that have done similar setups - what do you think I actually need to replace vs what can I feel confident keeping stock for a car that will live the life of use I described? (and nobody better say drop in an Aluminator) :p
 

Riddick

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I think you are on the right path by doing oil pump gears, sprocket, and the balancer. Beefcake racing offers a combo package on all of those items combined for a great price. I am unsure about the chain tensioners but I'd imagine on a stock motor that won't be reving to high I would say they are not needed. Those front driven 2.9s look amazing sitting on top of the coyote. Best of luck with everything.

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Paul.

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I just did exactly what you're describing (Whipple 2.9 Stage 3) and I did both the OPGs and the crank sprocket. I did not do the balancer myself, but it certainly wouldn't be a bad idea if you wish to do it. I also did not do a radiator upgrade, and I live in Phoenix. I did do the two auxiliary fans on the heat exchanger and based on my repeated abuse - the whole system is extremely efficient. I just did 1/2 mile races over the weekend, and the IATs only increased by 3 degrees by the top of the run, and are back to normal by the time I make the turnaround on the taxiway at the airport.

Good luck!

Install%20Complete%204_zpsapxkaedx.jpg
 

Paul.

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Oh, and buy a 20 amp fuse and install it in place of the 15 amp fuse in slot #13 (fuel pump relay) in your fusebox. That's really the only thing that the kit didn't provide that I believe it should.

Paul.
 

fishpick

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Ordered a TSS sprocket and OPG's from Beefcake the other day on a Christmas deal...
@Paul. Where did you get the gaskets for the OPG/sprocket replacement? I know there's a bunch of partials for the timing cover and the valve covers. Just a local dealer? Also - there's a special silicone too for the hardpoints, right?
 

Paul.

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I just emailed Tasca and told them to send me every gasket I needed for the valve covers and timing chain. They sent me an email with everything loaded up - it was about $100ish. Yes, you need a little RTV for the corners. Also, don't forget about a new belt for your A/C since you'll have to cut your old one off. And a few gallons of coolant to refill everything, plus the intercooler reservoir. On mine, the o-ring inside the radiator hose wouldn't seal anymore after it was removed, requiring a new one. A good angle grinder will make grinding the front cover easier too.

My build thread would probably be a good read for you...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/pauls-2011-coyote-build-thread.1101794/

Next up for me is a new clutch (smoked it at the 1/2 mile races last weekend), a CF driveshaft, 3.31 gears (instead of 3.73s), and a new diff.

Paul.
 

fishpick

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@Paul. I have already studied your thread, we have chatted there, and I plan on making one like that to for future folks!
A good angle grinder will make grinding the front cover easier too.
Must be your year required that... 'casue I have no grinding requirement for my install per the instructions from Whipple.
Good call on the A/C belt - not been clear when I read things if it comes off in one piece of if you need to cut it... so - I'll have ab extra and replace it while I'm in there makes sense...
I have an auto - so no worries there... and the car is already at the 3.31's - so I'm thrilled I didn't go to the 3.73's when I was considering it!
 
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fishpick

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@Paul. one more question - if you have to cut off the AC belt - how do you install the new one? Can't you de-tension it and take it off nicely?
 

tgranber

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If you're willing to spend the money then wouldn't it be a good idea to get the MMR phasers and the ford racing timing chain kit too?

I know people say you only need the opg and sprocket but it's a small investment for a basically refreshed motor right?

I only ask because I will be doing that in the future and wanted to know if it's worth it.
 

fishpick

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@tgranber This is where I said it's a slippery slope. These modular motors let you replace everything and then something else...
I talked to beefcake directly (and Whipple too) and unless you are building a dedicated racer (in which case you should be looking at forged internals anyhow) - the OPG and sprocket are the best bang for the buck in terms of insurance against potential failure...

Sure - you can put more in but I drew the line there simply because I'm pretty sure the blower is gonna make me spend some more on suspension, brakes and tires (might as well get more pretty wheels then too, right)

What a friggin money pit... I love it!
 

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