Recent content by YELOSNK

Had new PS pump replaced. They also replaced the high pressure line from pump to hydroboost as the old one was leaking badly when they put it back on. It seems like it may still be leaking somewhat. To double check: Should the Teflon seal be visible like this? It's also whining at high RPMs...

Finally getting around to replacing the PS pump before my next track day. Should I also replace the lines (esp. high-pressure lines), or if they aren't leaking is it better to not mess with them?

Thanks, that's about what I figured. I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong and figured compression would be a quick health check. If something seems wrong I'd have put in the extra effort for a leakdown test.

Decided to do a compression test for a health check and pretty happy with the results. All were 150-152, with 4x 150, 1x151, 3x152. Doesn't seem too bad for a 22 year old car. Edit: the consistency (which I know is the main thing to look for) seems great, but are the results low overall? All...

Going to try Amsoil Severe Gear 75-110 instead of RP Max Gear 75-90*. I didn't put any friction mod in with the RP, do folks add any with the Severe Gear? I didn't think the amoils had any already in there, but their site does say "Contains friction modifiers for limited-slip applications" My...

thanks. I actually bought a Motive a bit ago but this will be my first time using it, as I need to get fresh fluid in both the Cobra and M5 for track time.

Oof, I have the coolant drained and the stud out but I can not find a way to get it off/over the O-ring for where the coolant comes through the adapter. Anyone done this before and have any tips? I've only seen stuff on the terms, but they seem to have more room to get a small pry bar up there...

Thanks, and good point on the ABS. SS hoses so no clamps. I'll see if I can find an appropriate nut, or maybe just try doing the trick where one has something hold the brake pedal down a bit to stop the flow from the reservoir

Thanks all. So should I try putting (M10×1.0) nuts on the banjo bolts after I remove them from the caliper or just let all the fluid drain? I know I'll have to bleed either way, just not sure if it's better to try and keep most of it in there or let it out.

Continuing my parade of "it's old enough to smoke and taking it on track broke it", I've found my piston dust boots are cracked on the front. Normally I'd just buy some reman Cardones, but I'd be sad (likely) losing the COBRA logo, already own sets of the seals/boots, and the job doesn't look...

Because I do open track with this car I can't donthat without putting in a proper oil cooler. That would be superior, but not sure I want to drop ~$900 on the RoadRace 1 kit.

I'm almost positive its the large oring on the cooler closest to the face, given its leaking coolant from the front. I believe the stud O-rings are on oil and would be leaking towards the middle. Anyways, liquid cooling is a PITA, but I unfortunately need a cooler as I do open tracking. An...

Looks like they are. LMR also has a kit for significantly cheaper. Doesn't come with the hex socket, but I don't need that. Not sure if there's another reason to do Speed Concepts. Still don't get why it doesn't leak until the stud is tightened.

Looks like no dice. Curiously it's like when I tried tightening the filter. Didn't seem to leak when the stud is hand tight but when i get it up to spec it starts to leak coolant, though very slowly. I'm wondering if the outer o-ring was damaged when the cooler rotated in the housing. either...

thanks. I'm hoping it stops leaking now that I've tightened it but will let it sit a while before feeling comfortable. the other thing I don't know is if I've caused a problem by having the cooler itself rotate with the filter when it was first coming out.