Recent content by SVT_Troy

I do expect my upcoming revision # 1623, still running my self ported 2.3 TVS to be fun. How fun you ask?Only time will tell. I’m sure I’ll be back to square one sorting out problems…. Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

Joe you are too kind. Joe is right…. Dyno’s don’t mean a bunch to me but I did make 835/775 on the Dyno. I somewhat backed this up with a 9.736 @ 148 6-speed IRS car at 3650lbs race weight. Stock compression ported heads and Ford GT cams that I degree’d based of John Mihovetz’s...

The spacers install between the lower control arm and shock. The show will hit he lower control arm without the spacer. Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

I'm just getting ready to install mine! I'm going to remove the OEM hood latch and bought aerocatch latches. Decided on wrapping it matte black... Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

This is a prototype. The actual piece will incorporate the alternator bracket Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

It wasn’t in a lot of a known part number that I was aware off. I just searched for a longer ARP bolt made from the same material as the known 4Valve bolt. Info is below but I originally talked about it in post #186. It is an ARP M2-1.50 x 60 mm hex flange 8740 Chrome Moly bolt I picked up...

I’m at 3C 6R on the street. That might not be a bad starting point but your cars weight and what you are doing with it will affect your settings. For a softer ride with street cruising you want C set as low as you can without it bottoming out on bumps. If your ride height is set really low...

What balancer are you going with? The IW balancer that accepts metco style lowers requires a different ARP bolt. Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Baseline for what C&R or ride height? Also did you set your ride height with C&R at zero? Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

I paid a shop to time my engine and they hooked me up by swapping the drivers bank exhaust and intake cams. It would buck and pop, barely running and you would want to shut it right off. The plugs would be fouled as well. Running ok but down on power sounds like it could be the cam timing off...

Have you checked to see if the K-member is squared? Doesn’t matter if it is a stock or aftermarket K. Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

I got rid of my AEM for a AFR500V2 with the NTK productions grade sensor which was my tuners recommendation.

The blue one is a better orfice tube than the stock one. It is commonly referred to as the "Ford blue orifice tube"

killer chiller sold!

MMR coolant filler neck, bell housing and wideband sold! Make an offer on anything!