Recent content by Happster

Great! Wish I pulled my motor. Some people like to freeze the chain tensioners open to prevent the slag factor too. I did both and didn't notice a difference, but for what it is worth.. good luck

Ha, no. I wish. Thanks though. Hopefully helpful to first time cam degreeing folks. I spent 60 hours on a 10 hour job through trial and error. Get that dial indicator base stable on the head, don't ever turn counter clockwise and be ready to file the key on the intake cams to get them...

Not sure if heat exchanger is stock...came with a Terminator conversion package online with no details on that. Pulleys and MAF were aftermarket for sure. They stopped the pull at just under 6000. Torque and boost peaked at about 3700 and HP peaked st 5400. AFR steady throughout.

Ported and polished Eaton with some metal removed under the blades, nothing too aggressive. Need a Whipple, but haven't cleared it with the finance committee yet.

Numbers are in. 502 HP at the rear wheels, 585 lbs. of torque, 17.7 lbs. of boost. A little disappointing...thought I'd be deeper into the 500's, but she screws. They suggested I pull the 4 lb. lower pulley and go down to a 2 lber...getting too much boost too quickly according to them. Thoughts?

Yeah, I questioned it even as a hack mechanic, but the lawyer in me saw the lingo requiring that i follow the procedure or the warranty would be void, so I figured not doing so was foolish.

Yes, I did the appropriate cam break in procedure and then changed it and the filter right away. And you're right, brand new oil looked like it was well overdue for a change and smelled like fuel. I was going to wait until 500 miles for the next change, but I think I'll change it again right...

It was the fuel pressure sensor...took the vacuum line off and fuel came out. Lol. Failed in a big way. Vacuum source is the booster port and I also pumped a pint of fuel out of the supercharger plenum. Got a new one and it runs great. Need a booster bypass actuator valve too...that was full...

OK, she's breathing, but struggling. Engine racing pretty bad...up then cuts out, then back up. Given all the air I've added between the larger cams, opening up the supercharger and porting the heads is that expected and will the re-tune take care of that? Not sure I can even drive it to the...

Ok she's dialed in. So here's what I got... 98 GT Convertible with a aluminum 2001 Cobra block, JC Racing dished pistons, forged crank balanced, forged H-beam rods, Cleveland bearings, ARP studs up and down, custom stud girdle, high volume oil pump with the forged drive gear. Was running 99...

Yeah, had I known what I was in for, I'd have pulled the motor in a heartbeat, or at least left the cam rollers out of all but 1 and 6. Such a pain in the arse to get them in and out in the car that I laid as many in as possible before installing the cams. Good workout turning that f'er over...

Got 3 of 4 cams dialed in nicely. Left side CIL 114.25 and ECL 117.5. Whoever said you grind the key .006 for every degree that you need at the crank was spot on. Right ECL spot on at 118 and the intake was also 118 pregrind. Need to advance that 4 degrees by taking off .024 from the key...

Looks like Cloyes sold adjustable secondaries at one point: Cloyes Timing Camshaft Sprockets S790HP9 although no longer. Must be a reason for that. Lol. Shouldn't have to file much, I read .006" per degree at the crank. Will pull readings and get to work with the diamond hand file from...

Was hoping to get lucky, but dialed the left ICL to 114.25* using 4.5* of advance on the adjustable cam sprocket and ECL came in at 123*. :-( Going to have to do the grind-the-key thing, at least on the left, likely on the right too. Got the left ECL at 118.25* with 3* advance on the...

More great info. I'm going right with the specifications even if I have to grind the keys. I went with the most aggressive Cam that is recommended for these engines, with a .475 intake lift, so I don't want to get cute with the clearances.