Recent content by FEARSNO1

Yes alternator was definitely upgraded, and 3 pumps will pull 45-60 amps total at WOT, not to mention everything else running in the car too.

Yeah that’s it and that sucks that it’s discontinued.

I bought my block from FRPP, it was about 11-1200 bucks, already machined and ready to go, I honestly had the crank balanced to my rotating assembly and stuffed them in the block, no machine work was needed at all, just double checked clearances, put about 100 miles on it and then onto the...

Nice if you ever see me out riding, flag me down and we can chat!

Here ya go, this was when it actually let go, injector duty cycle was actually at 146%, voltage at 11.94, boost at 31 and LC-1 is AFR at 13.6! This was with 3-465’s and ID1300’s. The voltage issue just compounded the problem as I was already on the edge of the 1300’s to start with. As the...

No other solution but to have it sleeved, but I didn’t want to spend that kinda cash, after reviewing the logs, my alternator wasn’t putting out enough voltage and actually made the car run lean as the fuel injectors were at 130% duty cycle and AFR was in the mid to high 12’s. So I’m hoping that...

i originally bought my thrumpr tensioner in 2015, it broke in july of 2018, i was able to get it fixed under warranty for free only because they still had the "lifetime warranty" on thier website that they forgot to take down, so Peter honored it...... but now the warranty has changed to only 90...

It was a factory iron block, stock sleeves just upgraded rotating assembly. It was making close to 1300rwhp when it let go, it pushed coolant out the degas tank and then I also had water in the oil when I got back home. I was running 31-32 psi of boost on the KB 4.0, with some nitrous on top of...

if you want to push hard on the motor, hone it as little as possible. on my last built motor, i cracked a cylinder sleeve around 1300hp. so that is a weak point that you will be making weaker. that block was stock bore also.

i agree with the majority and can confirm that my own triple pump 465 setup and ID1300's were maxed out at the 1200 mark. so for your application with the 3.8, the 1700's are overkill, especially since you want to run pump gas, the idle and low throttle input will suffer with the 1700's. 1300's...

I can’t believe they aren’t going to give us the damn HP Numbers! I mean that’s what everyone is looking for!! CMON FORD!!

if the above post doesn't get you the results you want, just take out one of the rear wheel speed sensors, very easy to do, right behind the rotor, 10mm bolt holds it in place. just tie it up with a tie strap and you can burn down tires for days.

Hell Yeah congratulations man! hard work pays off for sure! It's definitely came along way since we were at KOTS together!

i never really got a solution since I started this thread, I just lived with it, and it performed great up until I cracked a sleeve late last year, but that was unrelated, LOL. but like i had said before, if i didn't have a boost/vacuum gauge on my car I would have never known the difference.