Recent content by bryantaylor

low voltage means high resistance, so there is corrosion or a damaged wire somewhere. what year and model?

sending pm

if you had a nitrous backfire, may have damaged the IAT (intake air temp) sensor. have you ran codes or looked at live data? i would view the data for the coolant temp and intake air temp sensors first if it gets better as it warms up. also view maf data too.

interested. i like the idea of the kb blower, but we need intercoolers in the south!

check out the na/svt group on facebook. its a very active group, i know someone on there will be able to point you in the right direction.

sorry, i never got notified of the replies. yep, got your pm i would like to keep it all together, but jnaquin4 doesn't want the windage tray, so if you want just that, we may be able to work something out.

Have to drop K member. I also removed all my EGR and air components. I got an EGR block off plate on ebay for cheap. Removed all secondary air lines. Cut off the tubes for the EGR and air lines going to the headers so you can re-use the screw fittings, then just used a head of a bolt to block...

price drop, $300 shipped to the lower 48

the clutch/coil is a FS10 style, easily found the pigtail on ebay A/C Compressor Wiring Harness Connector Ford FS6 FS10 Nippondenso Coil | eBay

the WOT relay in the BCM is known to go out also.

new, never mounted $350 shipped in the lower 48

have you changed the belt? sounds like it is contaminated. if any oils or coolant gets on the belt, it can ruin it. requires replacement.

sold everything but the heads

that should work also.

yep, that or the same kit from harbor freight will work also. if you don't have a stubby impact to remove the crank bolt, you may need to use the "starter bump" method, just be supper careful.