Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

[Black Gold 380R]

I know the center console is in and you probably don't want to deal with more wiring, but you could always install a dimmer for the cup holder LED's. Then you could use the white light and keep it at a usable level.

As for the front tires, don't forget about the negative camber gain. A lot of suspensions are set to have the tire go into negative camber as the suspension compresses. Plus you can run a little extra negative camber in the initial alignment.

Thank you Bob! I'm not completely done with the wiring yet. So, adding a dimmer is a possibility. I'm not sure about the camber. I really don't want the front tires to tilt in towards the car too much. A lot of VW guys run that style and I don't like the exaggerated look. I'm still exploring my options and I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

HEY!!! Something's missing LMAO!

With no car to work on I don't know what to do with myself today LOL.

 

[tones_RS3]

HEY!!! Something's missing LMAO!
With no car to work on I don't know what to do with myself today LOL.
View attachment 1712542

LMFAO

Enjoy the quiet downtime. lol

 

[01yellercobra]

Thank you Bob! I'm not completely done with the wiring yet. So, adding a dimmer is a possibility. I'm not sure about the camber. I really don't want the front tires to tilt in towards the car too much. A lot of VW guys run that style and I don't like the exaggerated look. I'm still exploring my options and I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

I'm not saying to go for the stanced look. I'm running -1.5° on my car and unless you're looking at the front of the car directly you can't tell.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I'm not saying to go for the stanced look. I'm running -1.5° on my car and unless you're looking at the front of the car directly you can't tell.

I'll look into it. My brother knows a guy who does alignment work. I'll see what he can do or recommends.

My fabricator knows of a machine shop here in town that might be able to mill off a 1/4 inch off the back of the wheel where it meets the hub/rotor.

I also sent an email to Boyd Coddington wheels to see if they are willing to re-hoop the rims as well.

So, I have some things in the works.

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[Black Gold 380R]

Hello everyone,

As most of you know the car is at the fabricators shop now. Here are some pics as it was being transported.

Uploading:

Downloading:

In the fabrication shop for a custom exhaust, upper and lower radiator tubes and a custom radiator cover.

Looks good from the underside too ...

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Talked to the guy who helped me paint the engine bay. Told him the car is at the fabricator shop and I had plenty of space in the garage.

So I asked him if he could come over and help me change the numbers on the fenders. He said to call him Friday and he might make it over on Saturday to do that.

I'll keep you guys posted, but I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the G.T. 427 sprayed on the fenders this weekend. Sweet!!!

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[Black Gold 380R]

Hello All,

Been getting things ready for Saturday. Got my fenders in position to be worked on. Since they are on stands and give me a very good visual of them I have realized they really are not in good shape.

It seems when you look at them from certain angles you can see sanding marks in the paint. There are some minor scratches at the bottom (under the side stripe and under front section). The area behind the bumper looks dry as they cleared it with the bumper on and since the hood is black you cannot notice this, but when you put the fenders side by side they actually look like different colors. Like one has a different tint to it.

So, I told my painter that I want to repaint them when he comes over on Saturday. However, I'll have him look at them and let me know what he thinks.

Fenders on stands and in a workable position.

If you look at the bottom front of this fender you can see a pretty good scratch.

The inner lip on this fender looks like it has little to no color.

If you look closely at this picture you can see the bottom of the fender (under the side stripe) looks more pinkish and the top of the fender looks more redish. It is not the lighting. It looks like this at all angles. It's almost like the original painter did not want to get down low enough to paint the fenders properly.

You can't see it at this angle, but the bottom stripe on the side stripe is not level. Kinda has a small wave/curve to it under the lettering portion, which fools the eye into making it look level. It's also not as wide as the top stripe. It's supposed to be a 1/2 inch and it is not. Amazing how you can see things clearly when they are up in your face LOL.

Here you can see the rough/dry area they couldn't get to due to the bumper being in place.

Same on this fender. So, I need to make sure the color is even, the side stripes are right and the clear coat is even. If you look to the right of this picture, in the light reflection, you can see the sanding marks in the paint. That's in the paint, not the clear coat. So, I think I'm just going to completely repaint them. Shouldn't be a big deal to make them right.

 

[01yellercobra]

Are you going to be able to scuff and shoot or will you have to take it down to primer?

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Are you going to be able to scuff and shoot or will you have to take it down to primer?

I will probably be able to scuff and shoot Bob. However, the areas with scratches or imperfections will probably need a little glazing putty to make the area even/level. Then I'll body work it spray some primer in spots and then shoot the whole thing.

That's how I've done it before, but I'll let the painter take the lead on how to get these fenders fixed up. I'll just do the work or whatever he tells me LOL.

 

[geoffmt]

If you have the time to open that can of worms, go for it. You may have not noticed it before, you may not notice it when all back together. If it’s the splinter under the fingernail then fix it if you have time, but keep in mind you will criticize the rest of the paint and the paint match. I LOVE every thing you have done with this car and your perseverance to get it done. But I would consider if this fix can be done without a whole respray. I only mention this as I have done this the hard way(expensive way).
I haven’t spoken up in a while because of health- family stuff but have been watching and loving the progress


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[Black Gold 380R]

If you have the time to open that can of worms, go for it. You may have not noticed it before, you may not notice it when all back together. If it’s the splinter under the fingernail then fix it if you have time, but keep in mind you will criticize the rest of the paint and the paint match. I LOVE every thing you have done with this car and your perseverance to get it done. But I would consider if this fix can be done without a whole respray. I only mention this as I have done this the hard way(expensive way).

I haven’t spoken up in a while because of health- family stuff but have been watching and loving the progress

Hello geoffmt! Glad to hear from you sir and sorry to hear about your health issues. However, thank you for posting up and providing your point of view on this. Greatly appreciated!

I have given a lot of thought to this. Initially I only wanted to fix the side stripes and the inner portion of the fenders (the area in the engine bay where the mounting hardware attaches). The numbers need to be changed and, as mentioned, below the striping was not done properly and the inner portion has overspray from when the engine bay was painted black initially.

This issue does extend to the rest of the rocker panels as well. My complete rocker panel was not fixed or sprayed properly during the last go round. The stripes are not level in certain areas and there are rust spots that were not fixed properly last time and they are coming through my stripes now (I haven't gotten to the point in my build to work on these issues, which is why they haven't been mentioned yet). My painter said we could fix these issues no problem.

Now, in my current situation I have sprayed the engine bay, cowl and the outer side panels (in front of the door, but behind the wheel). I have also sprayed my front valance and my stone guard. I do plan on respraying the front bumper, headlight buckets, bezels and grill support. These all have overspray or minor rock chips from driving the car before.

Therefore, most of my front end has been resprayed already or will be resprayed. I have looked at how my doors currently match the A pillar, outer side panels and cowl and it looks really good to me. This Laser Red does not have a lot of metallic in it, but does have a real nice pearl in it and it really matches most of my old paint very well.

So, although I am planning on repainting the fenders all together, I will wait for the painter to come over on Saturday and see what he says.

Thanks again geoffmt! Hope you feel better soon sir!

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay everyone,

I have good news and bad news.

Good news:

I was just contacted by the National Sales Manager for Boyd Coddington wheels. He told me that they are willing to rehoop my wheels to give me the proper backspacing.

Bad news:

He indicated that once they receive my wheels it will take them 6 to 8 weeks to complete this service.

Right now I cannot remove the wheels to send them to Boyd Coddington because the car is at the fabricators shop and I don't have an extra set of wheels to roll the car around on. So, by the time I get the car back and then send the wheels off to Boyd Coddington I will not get them back until "AFTER" the big Mustang show out in San Diego.

So, it appears I will miss my self imposed deadline. I may be able to get away with how it is currently set up, but I'm afraid if I drive the car the way it currently sits when I hit a bump the front tires will hit my fenders. This could damage my tires or my newly painted fenders.

Also, the car will not look right with the front wheels sticking out past the fenders and the rear wheels sunk in the QTR panels.

I really need to get these wheels rehooped or buy new wheels with the proper backspacing. Rehooping my current wheels is a less expensive option at this point. I actually like the look of these Boyd Coddington wheels on my car and it is kinda cool that they do not make these anymore so, that will give my car and even more unique look.

 

[01yellercobra]

Okay everyone,

I have good news and bad news.

Good news:

I was just contacted by the National Sales Manager for Boyd Coddington wheels. He told me that they are willing to rehoop my wheels to give me the proper backspacing.

Bad news:

He indicated that once they receive my wheels it will take them 6 to 8 weeks to complete this service.

Right now I cannot remove the wheels to send them to Boyd Coddington because the car is at the fabricators shop and I don't have an extra set of wheels to roll the car around on. So, by the time I get the car back and then send the wheels off to Boyd Coddington I will not get them back until "AFTER" the big Mustang show out in San Diego.

So, it appears I will miss my self imposed deadline. I may be able to get away with how it is currently set up, but I'm afraid if I drive the car the way it currently sits when I hit a bump the front tires will hit my fenders. This could damage my tires or my newly painted fenders.

Also, the car will not look right with the front wheels sticking out past the fenders and the rear wheels sunk in the QTR panels.

I really need to get these wheels rehooped or buy new wheels with the proper backspacing. Rehooping my current wheels is a less expensive option at this point. I actually like the look of these Boyd Coddington wheels on my car and it is kinda cool that they do not make these anymore so, that will give my car and even more unique look.

Orrrrr....you could bump the coilovers up a couple turns for extra clearance. And watch out for big bumps going to the show. I know it's not ideal, but it's a work around until you can get the real fix. Depending on how bad you want to make that deadline.

Like I said before, there's always next year.

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Or you could buy some rollers from the JY, Crown Vic spare tires are often used. Now get it done and get those rims shipped out to get them back, you've worked too long and hard to not meet your goals.

 

[RunninHorse]

You could also search around to see if anyone happens to be selling a used set.

You sure they aren't still made?

This isn't them? (several different fitments) JoesShowroom.com - Boyd Coddington B7080L Smoothie II Polished - Custom Performance Aftermarket Wheels, Replica Rims, Cheap Replacement Mags, New and Used Tires, Hubcaps, Classifieds, Galleries, Events & Models

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Orrrrr....you could bump the coilovers up a couple turns for extra clearance. And watch out for big bumps going to the show. I know it's not ideal, but it's a work around until you can get the real fix. Depending on how bad you want to make that deadline.

Like I said before, there's always next year.

Or you could buy some rollers from the JY, Crown Vic spare tires are often used. Now get it done and get those rims shipped out to get them back, you've worked too long and hard to not meet your goals.

You could also search around to see if anyone happens to be selling a used set.

You sure they aren't still made?

This isn't them? (several different fitments) JoesShowroom.com - Boyd Coddington B7080L Smoothie II Polished - Custom Performance Aftermarket Wheels, Replica Rims, Cheap Replacement Mags, New and Used Tires, Hubcaps, Classifieds, Galleries, Events & Models


View attachment 1713208

Bob, we already talked. I like your idea of keeping the car on the trailer while in San Diego. I think taking it to the show on the trailer, as is, with little to no driving may keep me from causing damage to the car or tires. This might be a viable, temporary, solution that will allow me to make the deadline while still having issues to address. Then I can have the wheels rehooped upon my return.

Grabber, I called my dad to see if he still had his spare set of rims to his 57 T-Bird. He does, but they are 15 inch rims. Not sure they will clear my calipers. Never thought about using the donut spares from newer Ford vehicles. Might be something worth looking into if they are not too expensive. Don't want to spend too much on 4 spares I'll only use temporarily. Then again, I have the spares from my Roush and 2 03 Cobras. Maybe I only need to purchase 1 spare...... Thanks brother!

RunningHorse, I have already contacted that company. They do not have any in stock and have not updated their website. They are the ones who actually referred me to some other rim modification companies. Problem is they are all in Canada, to include that Joe's Showroom company.

I'm assuming they are not made any more as the Boyd Coddington rep I'm dealing with has told me they are no longer in production. Which is why they are wiling to rehoop the wheels instead of selling me a new set.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Your perspective's are really appreciated. As I have said before I really enjoy this part of the thread. Discussion/feedback/ideas.......

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay everyone,

Been doing some research on my wheels situation. To tell you the truth, even if I get my wheels rehooped I'm limited on my options for out back. I can get the front fixed easy and go with a 17x7 or 17x8 set up. However, my current wheels have a stepped up lip to meet the center section and it's only so wide.

I had my rear-end shortened by 1 inch on each side and I massaged my QTR panels to fit a bigger wheel/tire. However, my rehoop options for the rear are 17x8 or 17x9.5. The 17x8 only gives me so much backspacing with the stepped up lip in the center section of the wheel hoop, which will limit the lip/deep dish look I can get. I like the idea of 17x9.5, but I don't think the rear-end can accommodate a 17x9.5 even with the extra inch form the rear-end shortening. I will go to the fabricators shop and verify if the 17x9.5 will fit or not. I'm doubting it since I do not have mini tubs.

So, I've been looking at other wheels that are similar to what I have. I have been looking at other wheel designs, but haven't found anything that fits my liking. It's either to much (meaning high end build type look, not what I'm going for) or just ugly in my opinion. I'm VERY happy with my current design, but need a better fit up front and a more deep dish look in the rear.


This is my current wheel. They are 17x8 with a 4.5 inch backspacing.

I really like the spoke and center section design of my current wheels. I think they give this wheel a unique look.

This is the new billet wheel made by Boyd Coddington called the ultimate 5. The spokes are similar, but the center section is very different and I don't like that look. Not to mention this wheel in a 17x8 costs $850 each. A little more than I'm willing to spend right now.

I was watching Muscle Car TV and they mentioned a company called Schott Wheels. I went to their website and found these wheels. Almost an exact match. This is pictured with a bolt on center cap, but they have a smooth O ring center cap that looks more like my center cap. These wheels have a smooth lip and center area with no step up lip. They also offer this wheel in a 17x9, which may fit my rear-end with the proper backspacing.

I sent them a message inquiring about price. I received an automated response saying a representative will contact me within 24 hours. I will see how much they cost and what their turn around time is. If I can get these for a better price than the Boyd's above I will probably pull the trigger. It will be nice to have a new set of freshly polished wheels and some wider meats out back LOL.

However, if worse comes to worse I can always just have my fronts rehooped and put some spacers on the rear to push them out a little until I'm ready to buy a completely new set of wheels and tires.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I just got off the phone with my painter. He said he will be here tomorrow to help me with the fenders.

SWEET!!! ...

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Well no joy on the wheels.

The Schott representative called me and told me those wheels in 17x8 cost $850 each and they have a 12 week turnaround time from date of order. Man, I really don't want to spend $3,400 plus shipping on wheels.

One good thing is they ask for 50% down and remaining balance paid prior to shipping.

More bad news is he said due to costs of materials their wheels are going up in price by $100 each in a month or so.

I don't know how true that is. Sometimes that's a sales tactic to get you to buy now. Then again, with all this COVID-19 crap I have dealt with delays in other parts, and only a slight increase in prices due to shortages. So, it is a possibility.

Looks like my best option at this point is to just have my front wheels rehooped for now, but after the show in San Diego.

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