Questions for cold air intake

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Not sure if canned is the right word for Lunds tunes. Have been working with them for years and will be finalizing this with more remote sessions.
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If the term " canned " bothers you, how about " file " tune.
.................A tune not developed on your car.
A tune you can order by phone or via the net.
& I understand not everyone can take their car to a shop for a " custom " tune..
But I have seen plates from the United Arab Emirates & California @ my tuners shop in N.J.
.
 

Jam421

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My mods are in my sig. When I worked with Lund on my tune he highly recommended the JLT 148 over my 127. I followed his advice, installed the 148 & my car runs like it's stock...everywhere. I still believe at my 716rwhp level the JLT 127 would've resulted in the same HP & driveability but Lund preferred tuning the signal from the JLT148.
 

LavaSlide

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My mods are in my sig. When I worked with Lund on my tune he highly recommended the JLT 148 over my 127. I followed his advice, installed the 148 & my car runs like it's stock...everywhere. I still believe at my 716rwhp level the JLT 127 would've resulted in the same HP & driveability but Lund preferred tuning the signal from the JLT148.

Out of the one I have and mentioned the PMAS he said the PMAS would have better drivability and idle.
Just curious as to I think the PMAS is only 120mm from what I read. Is anyone in this power range and mods running the PMAS.

As this issue happens it is not consistent but can correct it by doing a quick acceleration or restarting the car. I did just by a new filter for this thing. Cheaper to get some MAF cleaner and try that. Just think if it was dirty would be consistent.


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Catmonkey

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Most of the modded cars here are running a MAF in the 120mm range. On the later cars, it should be good for a bit over 800 at the wheels. The tube size has more to do with air flowing through a bigger tube that slows down the air signal sucked through the tube for the MAF sensor to meter airflow. You change the flow rate through the MAF transfer function. It's just a matter of changing the resolution of the sensor. A 123mm MAF will hit the higher end of the table approaching 850 hp, so a bigger tube is need to extend that range. What you gain up top you lose on the bottom. You're not going to find a throttle body that will outflow the tube, so the tube size is somewhat irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. My mods are in my signature. I'm running a Whipple 123mm MAF meter. My air tube is a used JLT 123mm that I cut to size to work with the MAF.

JLT Whipple MAF.jpg
 

SlowShelby_TX

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My mods are in my sig. When I worked with Lund on my tune he highly recommended the JLT 148 over my 127. I followed his advice, installed the 148 & my car runs like it's stock...everywhere. I still believe at my 716rwhp level the JLT 127 would've resulted in the same HP & driveability but Lund preferred tuning the signal from the JLT148.
I just ordered a tune from them Lund Racing), and he recommended the Steeda 130mm...just wanted to add that in. I have zero experience with either.
 

LavaSlide

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I went on and ordered the PMAS

Now I need to look at selling the JLT.


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Robot_trainer

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For a 20% variance, your tuner loaded the wrong value file. It happens. Further complicating the JLT transfer function is using a filter with and without the screen and using the wrong transfer function for the filter. The MAF tube is a pretty simple device and the tuning companies have known transfer functions for them. That's not to say they can't use some tweaking.
Funny you should mention that. I went down the rabbit hole last June. I decided to replace the 4 year old original S and B screened filter that came with the JLT kit. That filter was disco'd and changed to a shorter, no screen version that flowed more air. When I installed it, I noticed a slight surge at 2000rpm (cruise RPM) steady state. I mentioned this to JLT and they said sometimes the tune is just off enough to cause it. Well I figured second guessing everytime I changed a filter wasnt for me and mentioned this to them. They asked me what mods were on the car (very little-long tube headers, cobrajet throttle body, colder plugs, 170 stat and 3.73s). They sent me a new tune to compensate. I loaded it and it seem to run better. Next day it started throwing bank 2 rich codes. PCM was pulling 25% fuel. I tried loading the Lund tune back in, but got an error (probably my mistake. I never figured the battery would go low after driving the car but I was told the reflash used alot of power and to always have a charger hooked up when re-flashing). Luckily it didnt fry the PCM, but I had a nightmare on my hands. Car would not idle cold and was still seeing -20% trim. I removed the JLT intake, Re-installed the OEM cold air, got a new tune from Lund, disconnected the battery, turned on every switch there was, let it sit 8 hours and then reloaded the tune. That corrected it. Not saying the tunes were at fault because it more than likely it got scrambled, but it was an inconsequential thing that led down this path. To be honest, I didnt notice any performance difference between the JLT and OEM, but thats just around town/highway/passing and I was able to use an aftermarket non oiled Air Raid filter.
 

2011 gtcs

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Funny you should mention that. I went down the rabbit hole last June. I decided to replace the 4 year old original S and B screened filter that came with the JLT kit. That filter was disco'd and changed to a shorter, no screen version that flowed more air. When I installed it, I noticed a slight surge at 2000rpm (cruise RPM) steady state. I mentioned this to JLT and they said sometimes the tune is just off enough to cause it. Well I figured second guessing everytime I changed a filter wasnt for me and mentioned this to them. They asked me what mods were on the car (very little-long tube headers, cobrajet throttle body, colder plugs, 170 stat and 3.73s). They sent me a new tune to compensate. I loaded it and it seem to run better. Next day it started throwing bank 2 rich codes. PCM was pulling 25% fuel. I tried loading the Lund tune back in, but got an error (probably my mistake. I never figured the battery would go low after driving the car but I was told the reflash used alot of power and to always have a charger hooked up when re-flashing). Luckily it didnt fry the PCM, but I had a nightmare on my hands. Car would not idle cold and was still seeing -20% trim. I removed the JLT intake, Re-installed the OEM cold air, got a new tune from Lund, disconnected the battery, turned on every switch there was, let it sit 8 hours and then reloaded the tune. That corrected it. Not saying the tunes were at fault because it more than likely it got scrambled, but it was an inconsequential thing that led down this path. To be honest, I didnt notice any performance difference between the JLT and OEM, but thats just around town/highway/passing and I was able to use an aftermarket non oiled Air Raid filter.
I'm honestly not sure why JLT stopped using the screens, they worked so much better that way.
 

fearthesnake

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Most of the modded cars here are running a MAF in the 120mm range. On the later cars, it should be good for a bit over 800 at the wheels. The tube size has more to do with air flowing through a bigger tube that slows down the air signal sucked through the tube for the MAF sensor to meter airflow. You change the flow rate through the MAF transfer function. It's just a matter of changing the resolution of the sensor. A 123mm MAF will hit the higher end of the table approaching 850 hp, so a bigger tube is need to extend that range. What you gain up top you lose on the bottom. You're not going to find a throttle body that will outflow the tube, so the tube size is somewhat irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. My mods are in my signature. I'm running a Whipple 123mm MAF meter. My air tube is a used JLT 123mm that I cut to size to work with the MAF.

View attachment 1676746
Hmm...I didn't think about cutting the tube to fit to the original airbox, like it so much better than the JLT version.

Also, @Catmonkey - I was noticing your build list in your sig, are you running E-85? I'm going to be converting here in the next month so was curious at your power levels if you run it and how you like it?
 

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One of the drawbacks to a Pmas is you have to use their filters, which may or may not be a problem..
..................I like AFE or FRPP myself..
.
07-07-2014-motor-pics-001.jpg

GSRMC-Sept-2015-show-19-Sept-2015-001.jpg
 
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Catmonkey

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Hmm...I didn't think about cutting the tube to fit to the original airbox, like it so much better than the JLT version.

Also, @Catmonkey - I was noticing your build list in your sig, are you running E-85? I'm going to be converting here in the next month so was curious at your power levels if you run it and how you like it?
No, it's really hard to it find down here. Closest station is 60 miles away. I've got it pullied for around 750 at the moment. Kicking up the boost is just a pulley change away, but 850 isn't inconceivable on pump gas. I'd need to swap out the MAF for more and run with race gas if I wanted to turn up the wick. I'm still running a returnless fuel system for now.
 

Catmonkey

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I would still love to get my hands on a FRPP 140 complete setup.
I have a JDM tube for the 140 I've never used. It's not a good fit for the TVS and was made for a Whipple. I think you can still find the MAF meters.
 

2011 gtcs

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I have a JDM tube for the 140 I've never used. It's not a good fit for the TVS and was made for a Whipple. I think you can still find the MAF meters.
Yeah JDM still sells the MAF housing for $519 and you can buy the filter for $70, so it's still an expensive intake. I'm not sure why JDM stopped making the intake tube itself.
 

1 Alibi 2

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JDM never made that tube, they were made by Watson Racing for them.
JDM contacted Watson & placed a small batch order, one of which was for me.....( early 2014 )
 

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