Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay, as mentioned I tried to pound out a low spot identified by my neighbor.


Well, when I did, the thin factory metal ripped.

Time to get out the cutting wheel and cut out the bad/weak metal.

Got the patch panel made and welded in. You can also see the low spot is almost eliminated. Filler will take care of the rest of it.

And this is where I ended this weekend. I took pictures of both sides to try and show you guys I got both panels in pretty straight, so it will take minimal body work to finish it off.

And here are the overall pics...…….

 

[01yellercobra]

That's pretty crazy that the metal ripped when you were trying to smooth it out.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

That's pretty crazy that the metal ripped when you were trying to smooth it out.

Yeah, after I hit it and seen the result all I could do was roll my eyes Bob LOL. However, I did realize it was the old metal and was already weak and thin. So, it did not surprise me when I gave it a closer look.

Now if it would have ripped at my weld or my new engine panel sheet metal I would have been worried thinking my work sucked or something LMAO!

 

[98 svt]

Thays actually pretty common when working with older cars

 

[Black Gold 380R]

That's actually pretty common when working with older cars

Yeah, I'm starting to figure that out. It seems thin metal was used to begin with in certain areas on the car. Then you throw in the rust/rot and this is what you get. Although I was pissed at the amount of rubber undercoating someone threw on this car, I'm beginning to think this car would be much worse off if they hadn't.

 

[98 svt]

Yeah, I'm starting to figure that out. It seems thin metal was used to begin with in certain areas on the car. Then you throw in the rust/rot and this is what you get. Although I was pissed at the amount of rubber undercoating someone threw on this car, I'm beginning to think this car would be much worse off if they hadn't.

That undercoating is often applied before a sale to hide damage.
Used car lots even do it to used F150s etc.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

That undercoating is often applied before a sale to hide damage.
Used car lots even do it to used F150s etc.

Very true. I have noticed that all my newer cars do not have under coating. No reason to undercoat plastic fender wells LOL.

I do remember my Dad telling me about this trick from used car dealers way back in the day.

After getting into this car I do believe it was hit on the passenger side in the door/fender area. My brother fixed some metal in that region during the first iteration of this build and I noticed some damage on the frame rail during this build. So, it is possible the under coating was sprayed on back in the day to cover something up.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Just for fun.

Before:

Current:

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay every one, although it was a 3 day weekend I could not work on the car on Monday as it was the wife's B-day.

However, I did manage some progress on Sat and Sun.

Got the engine panels body worked (mostly) and cleaned up the metal around the frame rails and upper control arm mounts.

I used the green fiberglass filler to initially cover the welded area to make a stronger bond.

After working the fiberglass filler I then added the body filler over that.

I got the panels about 90% completed. I needed to work the panel metal around the upper control arm mounts. So, I left the bottom portion of the engine panel alone as I need to cut and weld in that area.

Here is the top of the apron where the old panel meets the new one. I needed to grind it as smooth as I could. Then I put fiberglass filler and then body worked it so it would look smooth, even and like one piece.

Here is the filler applied after fiberglass filler.

And here is where I ended on Sunday. Still need to finish up the frame rails and bottom of the engine panels. However, I think I'm going to weld in the MTF frame rail supports next weekend since I couldn't do it yesterday.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

As mentioned, I needed to work on the area near the upper control arm mounts. You can see the "tab" sticking out on the frame rail areas. Needed to cut those out and make it even with the engine panels. I think it gives it a cleaner look.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay everyone,

Made some progress this weekend. Not much because I wanted to cookout and watch some football on Sunday...……

However, I was able to mount the MTF frame rail supports and I got some work done on my radiator support.

Yes, I know my welds are not the prettiest, but they will hold. Besides, no one will see this area and it will be covered with bed liner down the road. So, I'm more worried about performance here and not so much aesthetics.

I was able to get the tube mounted very close to the engine panels while leaving some space so there will be no rubbing or vibrating issues.

 

[01yellercobra]

I'm guessing when everything is installed and welded the front is going to be extremely stiff.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

As mentioned above I was able to get some work done on my radiator support.

Here you can see all the factory holes at the top of the support

Got the majority of the holes welded up. The 2 you see are for the horn wiring harness.

Got the original radiator mounting area cut out in order to make room for my larger radiator.

Test fitting the radiator.

I just placed the radiator in to test fit it. I still need to place some rubber footing in the frame rail pocket to keep the radiator from being metal to metal. That will cause the radiator to be raised. Once that happens I'll be able to cut out the notch for the radiator cap and the radiator will be raised enough for the cap to clear the top of the radiator support surface. I will probably have a custom piece made in order to cover the top of the radiator and continue my theme of a clean engine bay.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I'm guessing when everything is installed and welded the front is going to be extremely stiff.

That's what I'm hoping Bob. I'm told my side to side stiffness was increased due to the wider and thicker cross member being welded in. I was also informed that by removing the shock towers I weakened the front to back stiffness at the firewall. Which is why I installed the MTF frame rail supports. We will see.

After I test fitted my radiator, my wife said it is starting to look like "something" again LOL.

 

[01yellercobra]

After I test fitted my radiator, my wife said it is starting to look like "something" again LOL.

She's just trying to make sure you don't cancel the trip to SD again.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

She's just trying to make sure you don't cancel the trip to SD again.

LOL, you're probably right.

She recently went on a trip to Phoenix for her granddaughters birthday. I stayed home due to work. She said on the way back it took all her might to turn the truck east to El Paso because the "Truck" was trying to go west to San Diego. LMAO!!!!!

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I'm hoping when my car is done it will sound similar to this and I'm going to definitely drive it like this LMAO!!!

Going to take care of my car, but it will be driven...…..

Start at 7:55

 

[gimmie11s]

Turn the wire speed down and heat up when youre welding heavier gauge tubing and motor mounts. Those welds are so bad i'd be afraid to hang anything off of them.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Turn the wire speed down and heat up when youre welding heavier gauge tubing and motor mounts. Those welds are so bad i'd be afraid to hang anything off of them.

Thank you for the advice brother. I hear you and will try to do those things and see how it comes out.

I'm not too worried about it because those tubes are meant to increase support for the frame rails, not be the sole support. I don't think I needed to add those tubes, but I did looking for some additional structural support. Also, after I was finished welding everything I took a mini sledge hammers and pounded the hell out of the tubes/welds to see if I could get them to break loose. They felt solid to me. As I admitted, I know the welds look ugly, but they are solid.

Anything that I feel needs structural integrity, like the cross member or motor mounts, I have an expert help me. My motor mounts were welded by the guys at Mustangs to Fear and my cross member was welded by a friend of mine who welds for a living on vehicles at a body shop.

Thanks for posting in my thread gimmie11s...…….

 

[gimmie11s]

10/4.. Ugly isnt always the issue in and of itself, the lack of penetration is what i was more referencing. Just remember to change your welder's settings when you move from sheet metal to the heavier gauge stuff.