Clutch Upgrade

Ron11

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I have a 2014 Mustang GT. It doesn't have any radical upgrades, just MSD coils, Airaide inlet tube, 85mm t/body, K&N filter. I don't have any clutch issues, just looking for info on the best way forward when the time comes. I don't drag or track the car, but I do enjoy the occasional haRD DRIVING. I'm looking at a new flywheel, clutch assembly and throwout bearing. I'd prefer staying with a single brand, to avoid parts that don't work together. Also I've read about some people having issues with going with a flywheel that is much lighter than a stock unit, causing a check engine light. I also plan on going with a Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft. Will that cause a check engine light too? Any recommendations? Thanks
 

Reaper14

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I dont know about the check engine light going off for that, but then again I dont know much lol. I did go with an aluminum flywheel & been on the car for about 1k miles & still no problems. Havent tracked it, but did push it at the local airstrip event & so far so good.

Vic
 

ViciousJay

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Go with a dual clutch set up like mcleod. Sell the MSD coils, T/B and inlet tube and go with a JLT or run the stock setup which has proven not to be a need to switch out.

Also call AED for a tune!
 

Chuckieduck

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Exedy all the way here. MACH 600 grooved clutch with Exedy flywheel. Kit comes with new throwout. Flywheel is chromoly. Dual clutch setups are overhyped. I love my setup. Just a little stiffer feel than stock with the assist spring removed previous to new clutch. Ceramic disks take a little getting used to as you can’t slip the clutch quite like you normally wood but the engagement is there. I also installed a new FORD Performance one piece driveshaft at the same time. No issues at all. If you have ever had the dreaded lockout that is completely gone.
 

Ron11

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I dont know about the check engine light going off for that, but then again I dont know much lol. I did go with an aluminum flywheel & been on the car for about 1k miles & still no problems. Havent tracked it, but did push it at the local airstrip event & so far so good.

Vic
I've read that the check light comes on from the lack of weight on the flywheel. I found that it may require a relearn for the crank speed sensor. I'm trying to avoid the aluminum flywheel because I plan on owning this car at least 5-7 years, and don't like to be resurfaced.
 

Ron11

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Exedy all the way here. MACH 600 grooved clutch with Exedy flywheel. Kit comes with new throwout. Flywheel is chromoly. Dual clutch setups are overhyped. I love my setup. Just a little stiffer feel than stock with the assist spring removed previous to new clutch. Ceramic disks take a little getting used to as you can’t slip the clutch quite like you normally wood but the engagement is there. I also installed a new FORD Performance one piece driveshaft at the same time. No issues at all. If you have ever had the dreaded lockout that is completely gone.
I've run a 5.5 inch triple disk setup in my asphalt modified, so very familiar with the ceramic disks. I really like the looks of the Exedy flywheel too.
 

Ron11

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Go with a dual clutch set up like mcleod. Sell the MSD coils, T/B and inlet tube and go with a JLT or run the stock setup which has proven not to be a need to switch out.

Also call AED for a tune!
Not selling the coils or going back to the stock air inlet tube. It does have the stock airbox because it flows great. I'll keep the T/body as well, because I'm going to open up the exhaust soon. Plus I've already gotten a VMP tune for the things I've done + what I plan on doing. I just haven't loaded it yet, until I finish the remainder of those mods.
 

Stang Lover

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Exedy Mach 500 matching flywheel and divorced clutch reservoir (separate the clutch line from the brake reservoir) here. Been in the car for almost 2 years with a lot of 8K shifts and zero issues.
 

Ron11

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Exedy Mach 500 matching flywheel and divorced clutch reservoir (separate the clutch line from the brake reservoir) here. Been in the car for almost 2 years with a lot of 8K shifts and zero issues.
I did the remote reservoir & braided line 4 years ago. I'll never understand the brake/clutch reservoir setup. Other than $$ cost savings it's stupid. I'm strongly leaning toward the Exedy set up. Thanks for your input for the clutch hardware.
 

Chuckieduck

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I think for the money the grooved MACH 600 is a good deal and I love the feel and feedback I get from it. Their flywheel is a snazzy looking piece and is lighter than steel being billet chromoly and more durable than an aluminum flywheel. Either way you go and I’m sure everyone will agree, get the braided clutch line at the same time. For less than $100 your clutch will operate correctly all the time and it’s cheap insurance against the stock plastic line.
 

Ron11

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I'm definitely leaning toward the Mach 6 & the chromoly unit. I already have a Shelby remote clutch reservoir & a braided line. Thanks
 

Reaper14

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I've read that the check light comes on from the lack of weight on the flywheel. I found that it may require a relearn for the crank speed sensor. I'm trying to avoid the aluminum flywheel because I plan on owning this car at least 5-7 years, and don't like to be resurfaced.
I also bought mine with same plan to keep it. I did not have to do a crank re learn when I did mine. Did not know about the whole having to resurface flywheel. About how often do you have to do that?

Vic
 

Ron11

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Vic, Flywheels that need to be resurfaced is usually caused by 1 of 2 things. Either a lot of hard launches for drag racing, or by drivers that tend to slip or ride the clutch. These things cause hot spots. Usually you can see them once the clutch setup is removed. It will look blueish/darkesh in color. Without ever pulling the clutch, you can tell if the flywheel has hot spots. When taking off the clutch will chatter a bit, and will feel jerky. If the flywheel resurfacing isn't done properly by a good machinist it will not cure either of the problems. Worse yet, it will wear the new clutch out more quickly. I would never resurface a factory stock flywheel. They tend to not be made of the best metal. That's because of costs. Now maybe if you have a new Shelby GT500, it might have a good unit. Bottomline is that clutch manufacturers say you should either resurface or replace the flywheel every time you change the clutch. Myself, if it's been my car for the entire time that clutch has been installed, I know how I drive it. If I pulled the clutch, and there are no hot spots showing on the flywheel, and there is no jerking when taking off, I'm not going to resurface or replace it. What I do then is to take some sand paper and lightly rough up the entire face of the flywheel.
 

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