Exteneded ball joints necessary?

[TBCobra]

So I bought an 04 cobra which will be here in a week or so and I'm going to be lowering it. Probably H&R race springs and mm c/c plates. It's been a while since I've been in the game and I'm wondering if I'll need new ball joints for sure or if it's a case by case thing.

Trying to get my ducks in a row here.

Thanks!

 

[01yellercobra]

I'd check the condition of the ball joints and replace if necessary. If you need them then maybe the X2 would be a good idea. If the current ball joints are good I'd leave them be.

 

[wudy]

Same combo here. H&R race and mm plates and didn't need to replace the ball joints. A heads up when doing the springs if you had forgotten. Watch out for the isos as some and thicker then others and keep the ride height a bit high if used. I removed the top one to get the height I wanted. Post some pics of the new beast..

 

[03 DSG Snake]

No

 

[TBCobra]

Same combo here. H&R race and mm plates and didn't need to replace the ball joints. A heads up when doing the springs if you had forgotten. Watch out for the isos as some and thicker then others and keep the ride height a bit high if used. I removed the top one to get the height I wanted. Post some pics of the new beast..

Thanks for the replies my dudes.

No pictures yet because I don't have the car yet. lol. It's getting shipped the 8th because I'm going out of town for 4th of July and won't be back until the 7th. Already have wheels and a mgw shifter for it. Just need springs/c/c plates and I'm good.

Care has 19,500 on it so ball joints should be good.

I'll be posting pictures once it's here.

Edit: @wudy, I wanted to take the iso's out but I'm worried the car will squeak. I took them out on my 01 cobra and it squeaked pretty bad. And what do you mean watch out?

 

[shurur]

I think....wudy means the oem rubber isos are thinner than aftermarket mm prothane isos.
And the prothanes can raise her up too much for that 4x4 look.

You can fix the squeak by putting 5/8" heater hose on the bottom pigtails and then staying with the oem rubber top iso or non at all.

BUT....There is such a thing as too low as well.
Speedbumps can be a bitch.

 

[forcefed86]

I just installed them on mine, made a noticeable improvement in steering. I am on H&R race with ISO's in.

 

[TBCobra]

I just installed them on mine, made a noticeable improvement in steering. I am on H&R race with ISO's in.

Pictures?

 

[TBCobra]

I think....wudy means the oem rubber isos are thinner than aftermarket mm prothane isos.
And the prothanes can raise her up too much for that 4x4 look.

You can fix the squeak by putting 5/8" heater hose on the bottom pigtails and then staying with the oem rubber top iso or non at all.

BUT....There is such a thing as too low as well.
Speedbumps can be a bitch.

Ahhh, makes sense. I don't need the car to be slammed but I want it pretty low. So if I decided to remove one iso from each spring I should do the top one or does it matter?

 

[wudy]

I think....wudy means the oem rubber isos are thinner than aftermarket mm prothane isos.
And the prothanes can raise her up too much for that 4x4 look.

You can fix the squeak by putting 5/8" heater hose on the bottom pigtails and then staying with the oem rubber top iso or non at all.

BUT....There is such a thing as too low as well.
Speedbumps can be a bitch.

Bingo... Thanks..

 

[shurur]

Ahhh, makes sense. I don't need the car to be slammed but I want it pretty low. So if I decided to remove one iso from each spring I should do the top one or does it matter?

IMO remove top,,and use 5/8" ID heater hose on the pigtail.
I believe that the noise comes from the bare pigtails flexing in the cup.
This is what most folks do who want the car lowered as much as possible.

I think and see that over time the prothanes crush down like the oem rubber isos and have no real or very slight lasting effect on ride height. When people compare them they are comparing crushed isos to new isos. The difference might be 1/10th of an inch after "a time."

Now ..I have H&R race springs with the MM thick prothane isos.
I have the extended ball joints, but did not install the spring spacers and my car would scrape on some speed bumps. My ride height drop is ~1-3/4" without the spacers (and with extended ball joints).

Just two weeks ago, while I replaced the ext ball joints with new ones, I installed the spring spacers this time. The spacers are to compensate what the extended ball joints to the ride height. They give you ~ 1/4" drop without the spacers; so I expect my drop to be ~1-1/2" when I get Kelly running again, with spacers installed.

I can't give any feedback yet, as Kelly is still jacked up and waiting on a hydroboost install, ac system, radiator and hoses, etc, etc..then dash reinstall..

So you will have to see how it goes for you, whatever you choose.

ALSO: I do have the MM 4 point kmember brace, which is the lowest point on my car; so that affects clearing the most for me. Kelly came with only the precats in...

IMO the extended ball joints can wait until you need them. I would just make sure you install the spacers that come with them as well. You will also want to install the tie rod endlink kit at that time as well, to level your tierods.