Any contractors here? Garage Ceiling question.

sleek98

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You have 3 options if they wont budge.

1. Leave the garage off and add it on as an addition later Go ahead and have them put the beam in now so you just have to knock out the wall under it. This will likely cost you 10-15k later on if you have a contractor do it.
2. Have them build it they way they want and then have the roof ripped off after closing and put in new trusses, you can go with a coffer or scissor truss. Likely would be 5-8k to have it done.
3. Have them build it the way you want and pay an engineer to come out and draw up plans to modify the trusses they install to give you the head room you want. This would likely cost 5k+

Looks like you have a hip roof. Scissor and coffer trusses might not be useble except for the middle section so it might not even give you enough room even with the change depending on how deep the garage is.

For an example of how cheap it would be to change now, I built my 40x50 detached garage with the house last year. To go from flat normal trusses 12' ceiling height to coffer trusses (outter 10' of ceiling is 12' high then bumps up to 16' high in the center 20x30 section) cost for the change from the builder was $237. The difference in truss cost to the builder on yours is likely less than 100 bucks, they are just being lazy.

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Coiled03

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No question it's laziness on the builder's part. That's sad as hell they won't work with you at all.
 

lOOKnGO

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All you need is a tray ceiling hip truss.
520801435e6533385d2b48ff24b92ad5.jpg


More info would have served you better for assistance. 10 foot Height is no problem and not change the exterior elevations. You can and have room to go higher inside with minimal exterior changes. Truss up charge should be less then $500


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Black2010

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All you need is a tray ceiling hip truss. View attachment 1504643

More info would have served you better for assistance. 10 foot Height is no problem and not change the exterior elevations. You can and have room to go higher inside with minimal exterior changes. Truss up charge should be less then $500


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This is exactally what I had in mind. Couldn't think of the name. Appreciate everyone's advice and suggestions. I'll take them to the supervisor.
 

Black2010

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Ran out to the neigborhood and found another house with a 3rd bay just like mine will be. This is how it is being framed. Still can't believe they wont just move the roof up a foot or at min have those cross braces just start up higher on the roof-line. I'm guessing this will be stupid easy for an independent contractor to do after the fact.

large.house.jpg.0c2c55aeac2eb42bb6de4ba9dde2c533.jpg
 

tistan

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Ran out to the neigborhood and found another house with a 3rd bay just like mine will be. This is how it is being framed. Still can't believe they wont just move the roof up a foot or at min have those cross braces just start up higher on the roof-line. I'm guessing this will be stupid easy for an independent contractor to do after the fact.

View attachment 1507205
So it is stick framed so trusses don't even matter. I would ask the framer if he would raise it for an extra $500 and supply him with the 10' 2x4 needed. That is ridiculous that the builder won't let you make that change. I could understand him not wanting to change it if he had truss packages that were already engineered and used over and over again.
 

sleek98

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So it is stick framed so trusses don't even matter. I would ask the framer if he would raise it for an extra $500 and supply him with the 10' 2x4 needed. That is ridiculous that the builder won't let you make that change. I could understand him not wanting to change it if he had truss packages that were already engineered and used over and over again.

Paying the sub 500 to raise it wont do him any good unless that 500 covers the change in permit. Around here at least they will fail it unless its exactly like the plans, changes on the fly didnt pass until the engineer signed off.
 

tistan

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Paying the sub 500 to raise it wont do him any good unless that 500 covers the change in permit. Around here at least they will fail it unless its exactly like the plans, changes on the fly didnt pass until the engineer signed off.
How many inspections have you had to pass? I've been through hundreds maybe thousands. No inspector would ever catch a change like that. Inspectors are not trained to read plans and make sure your home is being built right. Inspectors are trained to catch code violations. I've often said you could build a home upside down and get away with it as long as you have your tie downs, roof clips, wall strapping, and nailing patter on plywood correct.
 

Adamn

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You could try to get the framers to frame the 10’ ceiling above the 8’ ceiling and after you get your final inspection tear out the 8’ ceiling and finish the 10’ one
 

tistan

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You could try to get the framers to frame the 10’ ceiling above the 8’ ceiling and after you get your final inspection tear out the 8’ ceiling and finish the 10’ one
Then you are stuck with a 7' garage door, or paying to replace it.
 

lOOKnGO

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Op, that pic shows a small cantilever between the lower wall studs and the upper wall studs. That is why they won't go higher. Typically they attach a rim board at the end of those floor joist, but rim board is a non structural member. It is not allowed to support an additional exterior band. What is alarming is that there is just a single jack supporting what appears to be a single ply 16 inch lvl. That lvl has a flooring load and to partial roof loads. That's not a good sign.
aa35d8e6f9b3201cfda74520351b68fe.jpg



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sleek98

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How many inspections have you had to pass? I've been through hundreds maybe thousands. No inspector would ever catch a change like that. Inspectors are not trained to read plans and make sure your home is being built right. Inspectors are trained to catch code violations. I've often said you could build a home upside down and get away with it as long as you have your tie downs, roof clips, wall strapping, and nailing patter on plywood correct.

Like I said in my town they catch a lot and have no issues failing you. They might just be super detailed since it’s a smaller town.

First house we built failed due to double 2x8 headers when the plans called for double 2x6. Yes they made them rip out the headers to put in a smaller weaker board

Second house the detached garage failed on the second inspection due to it missing 1 brace along the trusses. The first inspection it was failed since the trusses packet was not present for them to see where the bracing was required.
 

ashleyroachclip

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I also do a lot of renovations , on old homes .
By old homes I mean those built at the turn of Last Century , 1900's .
Before codes were a way to gouge money from a contractor /home owner .
None of those houses from that era were engineered, and have withstood fire , flood , etc...
Wood is the most forgiving component in building .
Inspectors here , are usually those that failed to be successful at the same craft .some you win , some you lose .
 

tistan

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Op, that pic shows a small cantilever between the lower wall studs and the upper wall studs. That is why they won't go higher. Typically they attach a rim board at the end of those floor joist, but rim board is a non structural member. It is not allowed to support an additional exterior band. What is alarming is that there is just a single jack supporting what appears to be a single ply 16 inch lvl. That lvl has a flooring load and to partial roof loads. That's not a good sign.View attachment 1507238



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They are going to have to add another jack to make the corner, they just haven't done it yet for whatever reason. As far as the lvl, looking at the tables they don't spec a 1 3/4 lvl for a combined header load use. I've never seen a single header used anywhere so I would be curious to know what the story is behind that.
 

ashleyroachclip

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^^^^^?
Have you been drinking ?
I dont question what you said the first time , just that you said the same thing 3 times in the same post ....oh my .
 

tistan

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^^^^^?
Have you been drinking ?
I dont question what you said the first time , just that you said the same thing 3 times in the same post ....oh my .
No, I somehow screwed up and wrote my response in his quote then when I copied and tried to past it, it wasn't showing up. IDK internets is weird sometimes.
 

coposrv

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How many inspections have you had to pass? I've been through hundreds maybe thousands. No inspector would ever catch a change like that. Inspectors are not trained to read plans and make sure your home is being built right. Inspectors are trained to catch code violations. I've often said you could build a home upside down and get away with it as long as you have your tie downs, roof clips, wall strapping, and nailing patter on plywood correct.

Truth. No one will catch this.


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lOOKnGO

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They are going to have to add another jack to make the corner, they just haven't done it yet for whatever reason. As far as the lvl, looking at the tables they don't spec a 1 3/4 lvl for a combined header load use. I've never seen a single header used anywhere so I would be curious to know what the story is behind that.

You see what I see. However adding just one jack to a single ply header doesn't spread the shear load at the bearing point. It would take 4 jacks to do so. Two lvl's nailed together spread the bearing to 9sq inches. A single header with two jacks is at 4.5sq inchs point load. That is some F'ed up shit.


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