upgraded radiator worth it?

choate

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Since I've had my VMP I've noticed the car seems to produce a lot of heat. It doesn't overheat, leak, has brand new coolant 50/50, Afco heat exchanger and a 170* stat. Fans work etc and there are no issues I'm aware of with the current cooling system. To my knowledge the radiator is stock and looks to be in good condition. That said it's what almost 15 years old. I've heard the Cobra radiators are pretty good but I'm wondering if I should upgrade to a 3 row radiator and if that would help keep the car cooler. I have not yet logged temps etc but once it's up to temp the needle just stays right in the middle and never goes any higher even when idle with AC on full. Am I just throwing away money until I start to have problems with mine by getting a new 3 row radiator?
 

R.D.P.

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Should have went with a Whipple instead :)

I'm joking (mostly) - but yeah, use you tuner to log actual temps before spending any cash.
 

hotcobra03

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Log it..

I just did it but had no choise.

The guage will always be straight up till 228ish than it starts to move toward red.

I see 178/182 if under 90 deg in sun

Now with 100 deg I see 188/198

If I just sit and idle 220 with ac on..


I can't answer on stock..when I had gotten my tuner I was having cyl 6 issue with a couple codes and just learing.

I do recall seeing temp gauge move toward hot a couple times but 90% of our driving is on hwy.so car doesn't sit alot
 

wckdvnm

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Since I've had my VMP I've noticed the car seems to produce a lot of heat. It doesn't overheat, leak, has brand new coolant 50/50, Afco heat exchanger and a 170* stat. Fans work etc and there are no issues I'm aware of with the current cooling system. To my knowledge the radiator is stock and looks to be in good condition. That said it's what almost 15 years old. I've heard the Cobra radiators are pretty good but I'm wondering if I should upgrade to a 3 row radiator and if that would help keep the car cooler. I have not yet logged temps etc but once it's up to temp the needle just stays right in the middle and never goes any higher even when idle with AC on full. Am I just throwing away money until I start to have problems with mine by getting a new 3 row radiator?

I've got a place you can get a 3 row for $135 brand new. So far I have two people running it and they work amazing. It's the same company SVE rebrands.
Anyway; my car with that rad, old style riesche 180(don't think they make the 180 anymore) I run 185-192 on the highway in 110 degree heat. At idle stopped with the A/C on I see 210 tops and that's under a cowl hood that doesn't extract heat.
The other car I did the setup for is using a autozone 180 tstat, and that rad and his car wouldn't get over 185 on the highway and when he would make pulls the car would actually get cooler. And that's on a car with a 2.7 upper and 4lb lower with 4.10 gears. Before that rad his car ran at 220 constant with no a/c on.
98134fc2cd9aed1101346e975480611c.jpg
a2f01adb9a70fda3b7eabdf4c8099d61.jpg

But then again I did modify myself a mark 8 blade to use on my car so it could explain why I can't get too hot.
 

choate

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I don't have a 170 stat apparently. I thought it said that in the paperwork but it doesn't. I guess I just dreamed that up. I think I'm going to do that over winter for sure at least but gonna see what the data logs show first and see how hot it's getting.
 

choate

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I've got a place you can get a 3 row for $135 brand new. So far I have two people running it and they work amazing. It's the same company SVE rebrands.
Anyway; my car with that rad, old style riesche 180(don't think they make the 180 anymore) I run 185-192 on the highway in 110 degree heat. At idle stopped with the A/C on I see 210 tops and that's under a cowl hood that doesn't extract heat.
The other car I did the setup for is using a autozone 180 tstat, and that rad and his car wouldn't get over 185 on the highway and when he would make pulls the car would actually get cooler. And that's on a car with a 2.7 upper and 4lb lower with 4.10 gears. Before that rad his car ran at 220 constant with no a/c on.
98134fc2cd9aed1101346e975480611c.jpg
a2f01adb9a70fda3b7eabdf4c8099d61.jpg

But then again I did modify myself a mark 8 blade to use on my car so it could explain why I can't get too hot.

I'll probably hit you up on this when I go to buy. Thank you.
 

GNBRETT

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HEAT is a Killer bro.... I always do wat I can to cool things down. I run methanol but only to cool the intake temp. every little thing helps imo
 

vrt03cobra

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I've got a place you can get a 3 row for $135 brand new. So far I have two people running it and they work amazing. It's the same company SVE rebrands.
Anyway; my car with that rad, old style riesche 180(don't think they make the 180 anymore) I run 185-192 on the highway in 110 degree heat. At idle stopped with the A/C on I see 210 tops and that's under a cowl hood that doesn't extract heat.
The other car I did the setup for is using a autozone 180 tstat, and that rad and his car wouldn't get over 185 on the highway and when he would make pulls the car would actually get cooler. And that's on a car with a 2.7 upper and 4lb lower with 4.10 gears. Before that rad his car ran at 220 constant with no a/c on.
98134fc2cd9aed1101346e975480611c.jpg
a2f01adb9a70fda3b7eabdf4c8099d61.jpg

But then again I did modify myself a mark 8 blade to use on my car so it could explain why I can't get too hot.

Care to PM how to get one of these radiators? :D
 

Bdubbs

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My car runs very cool on the highway, maybe to cool. On a 80℉ day my engine temp is 172-177 cruising at 60 mph. In town driving 182-186 range.

Stock radiator, 170 stat (fans adjusted), stock ic tank, gords heat exchanger, LDC cooling mod, and e85.

The aeroforce gauge is worth every penny. Like mentioned, stock gauge is nearly useless.
 

wckdvnm

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My car runs very cool on the highway, maybe to cool. On a 80℉ day my engine temp is 172-177 cruising at 60 mph. In town driving 182-186 range.

Stock radiator, 170 stat (fans adjusted), stock ic tank, gords heat exchanger, LDC cooling mod, and e85.

The aeroforce gauge is worth every penny. Like mentioned, stock gauge is nearly useless.

It's mostly because you run E85 lol but my car ran cool too till it started getting up to 95+F outside then it would start struggling. With this radiator though it's hard for the car to get hot now. I mean for $135 you can't beat an upgrade like that. I've now had about a month with mine and my other friend I'm using as a "tester" for a little kit I might be putting together as a kind of cooling package have had zero problems. His car actually gets cooler during pulls which is crazy to me.
 

BLOWN9646

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E85 doesn't keep my car any cooler while cruising than on 93..only @ WOT iat2's drop
 

94slowbra1

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i may need to look into this upgraded radiator. i know we dont get as crazy hot as some out there but our humidity here is brutal on cooling systems. ive read mixed reviews on aftermarket radiators but i have to believe on a heavily modified car that it would be a benefit.
i also believe a better fan (mark viii set up) with correct settings, a 170 degree t-stat and a new water pump will help keep everything in check
909venm: i would also like a link or some info on this $135 radiator.
 

Michael Plackis

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i may need to look into this upgraded radiator. i know we dont get as crazy hot as some out there but our humidity here is brutal on cooling systems. ive read mixed reviews on aftermarket radiators but i have to believe on a heavily modified car that it would be a benefit.
i also believe a better fan (mark viii set up) with correct settings, a 170 degree t-stat and a new water pump will help keep everything in check
909venm: i would also like a link or some info on this $135 radiator.

Same here that'd be really useful. Stock GT radiator isn't keepin up with the new engine especially with AC on for the killer chiller


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

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