Suspension Tech: Bring It!

BMR Tech 2

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Instead of continually bugging my friends I will ask here.
I have a 2014 stage 3 Roush. I am not going to change the springs or shocks but will be ordering LCAs. My question is, should I get relocation brackets since the Roush springs are only a half inch drop and will I need to change out the Roush uca to an adjustable BMR uca if I do get relocation brackets?

I would pick up the relocation brackets if it were my car. They're not required, but they definitely help!

What is the standard wheelbase? I just bought the on car adjustable LCA and need to figure out what to set them at.

We usually recommend that our customers set their wheelbase to 107.25". I would not go over that, or go under 106.9".
 

14RS3

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What about the uca? Should I go with an adjustable one when I use LCA relocation brackets or measure the pinion angle and go from there? I still have the stock drive shaft. I had planned on a RXT clutch and aluminum drive shaft this past summer but the wife decided to turn our walkin closet into a bathroom, then tear through the bedroom wall and make the spare bedroom a big walkin closet. She makes the money so I can't complain!
 

BMR Tech 2

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What about the uca? Should I go with an adjustable one when I use LCA relocation brackets or measure the pinion angle and go from there? I still have the stock drive shaft. I had planned on a RXT clutch and aluminum drive shaft this past summer but the wife decided to turn our walkin closet into a bathroom, then tear through the bedroom wall and make the spare bedroom a big walkin closet. She makes the money so I can't complain!

I would measure the PA and see where it is. The stock DS has a pretty wide range of operating angle, so you should be fine until the 1-piece goes in. When you do the 1-piece, I'd definitely pick an adjustable UCA/mount up.
 

14RS3

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Thank you for the quick reply! One more question, since I am keeping the Roush springs, which don't have much drop, do I use the top hole of the lca relocation bracket or the middle hole like I have seen recommend many times on here?
 

BMR Tech 2

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Thank you for the quick reply! One more question, since I am keeping the Roush springs, which don't have much drop, do I use the top hole of the lca relocation bracket or the middle hole like I have seen recommend many times on here?

I would start with the top hole and see how that works for you. If you end up going lower, definitely drop to the middle.
 

matt5058

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Hi BMR dude,

I'm interested in doing some suspension mods to my 2014 GT. I'd like to do what I can to eliminate wheel hop and improve the handling. I've done a few autocross events this year and plan to do a lot more next year, and maybe finally take it to the drag strip. I drive the car for road trips, occasionally for work, but I live in the DC area and the roads aren't the most pleasant to drive on as it sits (completely stock suspension at the moment). I don't plan on lowering the car any time soon, so I'm wondering if I can go with a non-adjustable panhard rod and non-adjustable LCA's and will see improvements in handling/launching + reduce wheel hop. Thanks.

Cheers
 

BMR Tech 2

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If you're going to be auto-xing the car, I would recommend doing an adjustable bar with a bearing on one end (PHR013) and a set of our TCA022 if you want to keep fixed lowers. Having bearings on one end is going to be a lot better for you in a handling application.
 

matt5058

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If you're going to be auto-xing the car, I would recommend doing an adjustable bar with a bearing on one end (PHR013) and a set of our TCA022 if you want to keep fixed lowers. Having bearings on one end is going to be a lot better for you in a handling application.

Thanks for your response. Would you mind explaining (in layman's terms) why the TCA022 would be better than the TCA019 or TCA032. I don't have a ton of money to spend on parts unfortunately, one of the perks of living in one of the most expensive areas in the U.S., so if I went with one of the cheaper fixed LCA sets, would I still see improvements as far as reducing wheel hop and improving traction/handling? Thanks.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Thanks for your response. Would you mind explaining (in layman's terms) why the TCA022 would be better than the TCA019 or TCA032. I don't have a ton of money to spend on parts unfortunately, one of the perks of living in one of the most expensive areas in the U.S., so if I went with one of the cheaper fixed LCA sets, would I still see improvements as far as reducing wheel hop and improving traction/handling? Thanks.

The bearing on the TCA022 will take the stresses of road racing/autocrossing better than a poly/poly arm. You can run a poly/poly arm if you'd like, but you will be replacing the bushings more frequently. The quick, extreme, and repeated transitions that you see during autocross can be pretty rough on poly, and will cause it to deform/cold flow over time.
 

matt5058

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The bearing on the TCA022 will take the stresses of road racing/autocrossing better than a poly/poly arm. You can run a poly/poly arm if you'd like, but you will be replacing the bushings more frequently. The quick, extreme, and repeated transitions that you see during autocross can be pretty rough on poly, and will cause it to deform/cold flow over time.

Great, thanks for explaining. Looking forward to picking up these parts in the next couple of months.
 

BMR Tech 2

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I would set the the a-arms up like factory, then allow your alignment shop to make whatever adjustments are necessary. How much is your car lowered? What are you doing with the car?
 

toastedbutter

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Hello BMR! Currently I have a set of Whiteline's double adjustable LCA's that I got from a friend on my 2011 GT (manual). Also it's my daily, the car has factory lowering springs on it.

Going to be upgrading my UCA pretty soon and I want to go with your poly adjustable arm and bracket. I want to replace/upgrade the differential bushing while it's accessible. I read at the beginning of this thread that the Steeda spherical bushing was a popular option, but caused havoc. Was that just an increase in NVH, or actually destroying the poly bushing? If so, I guess I'll go ahead with your bushing set :D Thanks a bunch!
 

BMR Tech 2

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Hello BMR! Currently I have a set of Whiteline's double adjustable LCA's that I got from a friend on my 2011 GT (manual). Also it's my daily, the car has factory lowering springs on it.

Going to be upgrading my UCA pretty soon and I want to go with your poly adjustable arm and bracket. I want to replace/upgrade the differential bushing while it's accessible. I read at the beginning of this thread that the Steeda spherical bushing was a popular option, but caused havoc. Was that just an increase in NVH, or actually destroying the poly bushing? If so, I guess I'll go ahead with your bushing set :D Thanks a bunch!

Bearings will almost always increase NVH. As long as you have poly on one side, it shouldn't be too bad. That being said, if you want to upgrade that bushing and don't want a bunch of extra noise, our poly bushing is the way to go!
 

Igloo

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I have a daily driver that take on back roads often and do a handful of autocross events in. This setup you posted in the main article sounds like it will be good for me, is this still your recommendation?
suspension.JPG
 

BMR Tech 2

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I have a daily driver that take on back roads often and do a handful of autocross events in. This setup you posted in the main article sounds like it will be good for me, is this still your recommendation?
View attachment 76425

That's definitely still a solid setup, but I we've released our handling springs since that post was made, and I would suggest those instead of the P springs. You can check them out here:

http://bmrsuspension.com/index.cfm?page=products&vehicleid=1&maincatid=21&catid=69&productid=1462

And if you have any questions about them, you know where to find us!
 

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