What is the standard wheelbase? I just bought the on car adjustable LCA and need to figure out what to set them at.
Instead of continually bugging my friends I will ask here.
I have a 2014 stage 3 Roush. I am not going to change the springs or shocks but will be ordering LCAs. My question is, should I get relocation brackets since the Roush springs are only a half inch drop and will I need to change out the Roush uca to an adjustable BMR uca if I do get relocation brackets?
What is the standard wheelbase? I just bought the on car adjustable LCA and need to figure out what to set them at.
What about the uca? Should I go with an adjustable one when I use LCA relocation brackets or measure the pinion angle and go from there? I still have the stock drive shaft. I had planned on a RXT clutch and aluminum drive shaft this past summer but the wife decided to turn our walkin closet into a bathroom, then tear through the bedroom wall and make the spare bedroom a big walkin closet. She makes the money so I can't complain!
Thank you for the quick reply! One more question, since I am keeping the Roush springs, which don't have much drop, do I use the top hole of the lca relocation bracket or the middle hole like I have seen recommend many times on here?
If you're going to be auto-xing the car, I would recommend doing an adjustable bar with a bearing on one end (PHR013) and a set of our TCA022 if you want to keep fixed lowers. Having bearings on one end is going to be a lot better for you in a handling application.
Thanks for your response. Would you mind explaining (in layman's terms) why the TCA022 would be better than the TCA019 or TCA032. I don't have a ton of money to spend on parts unfortunately, one of the perks of living in one of the most expensive areas in the U.S., so if I went with one of the cheaper fixed LCA sets, would I still see improvements as far as reducing wheel hop and improving traction/handling? Thanks.
The bearing on the TCA022 will take the stresses of road racing/autocrossing better than a poly/poly arm. You can run a poly/poly arm if you'd like, but you will be replacing the bushings more frequently. The quick, extreme, and repeated transitions that you see during autocross can be pretty rough on poly, and will cause it to deform/cold flow over time.
Hello BMR! Currently I have a set of Whiteline's double adjustable LCA's that I got from a friend on my 2011 GT (manual). Also it's my daily, the car has factory lowering springs on it.
Going to be upgrading my UCA pretty soon and I want to go with your poly adjustable arm and bracket. I want to replace/upgrade the differential bushing while it's accessible. I read at the beginning of this thread that the Steeda spherical bushing was a popular option, but caused havoc. Was that just an increase in NVH, or actually destroying the poly bushing? If so, I guess I'll go ahead with your bushing set Thanks a bunch!
I have a daily driver that take on back roads often and do a handful of autocross events in. This setup you posted in the main article sounds like it will be good for me, is this still your recommendation?
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