Suspension Tech: Bring It!

BMR Tech 2

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So you think with the drop of the SP009 springs, the front LCA bushing would still be within a tolerable range if I didn't touch it? And would it just concern that front bolt, #2 in the diagram above?

Thank you again for your reply!

Most people don't touch any of the bushings. If it was my car, I would loosen all of them. Whether or not you choose to do that is up to you, but it probably won't matter one way or the other if you don't do anything to the rear bushing.

Looking for a quick baseline setting for new Warrior shocks on my car.

Has TCA019, PHR013, SP068, CAB005 and Viking Warriors.

Best 60' on stock springs, TCA019, PHR013 and stock shocks is 1.58

Just added SP068 and Viking Warriors. Car is on 275 ET Pro and makes 700+. Best 1/8 is 6.64 at 108.

What's a starting point with the Vikings at the track? Also, middle hole for relocation brackets?

Thanks for your time.

I would start around 6-8C and 9-11R and adjust accordingly.

For the LCA brackets, you can run them lower with the Vikings, you'll just have to up your rebound settings a couple clicks.
 
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NacsMXer

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Most people don't touch any of the bushings. If it was my car, I would loosen all of them. Whether or not you choose to do that is up to you, but it probably won't matter one way or the other if you don't do anything to the rear bushing.

Sounds good, thanks for the advice. With the rear hydro bushing I only ask because the Ford service manual says to tighten the 2 bolts/nuts to spec while the vehicle is still supported on a hoist. It mentions to leave only the forward LCA pivot bolt loose until the weight of the vehicle is on the tires, and then torque to spec.
 

TimMcC

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Most people don't touch any of the bushings. If it was my car, I would loosen all of them. Whether or not you choose to do that is up to you, but it probably won't matter one way or the other if you don't do anything to the rear bushing.



I would start around 6-8C and 9-11R and adjust accordingly.

For the LCA brackets, you can run them lower with the Vikings, you'll just have to up your rebound settings a couple clicks.

So you're saying lower hole on relo's? I'm still on the stock upper control arm, is the shaftmaster DS ok with the lca's in the lower position? Thanks a bunch!
 

BMR Tech 2

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So you're saying lower hole on relo's? I'm still on the stock upper control arm, is the shaftmaster DS ok with the lca's in the lower position? Thanks a bunch!

You CAN run in the lowest hole with the Vikings, but it will take more work and more testing to get the shock settings dialed in. Adding more anti-squat should make the car faster, assuming you have everything else set up properly.

You would have to check with Shaftmasters regarding the LCA position/pinion angle. Dropping to the lowest hole shouldn't change the pinion angle very much, but some DS manufacturers have certain operating angle, rear u-joint/CV, and wheel base specifications that they'd like to you to use to avoid damaging the DS. For example, DSS requires a certain length between their pinion flange adapter and the DS to avoid damaging the CV joint.
 

Riddick

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PHR006 all the things!

I don't like rod-ended bars for anything other than track only cars. They are NOISY! PHR006 is nice and quiet and does exactly what you need it to. Alternatively, the PHR013 is a good choice as well if you want a bearing but don't want clunks. Poly one end and bearing on the other helps to keep the bearing indexed and QUIET!

Thanks, im going to see if any vendors are having a Labor Day sale. Im a cheap ass and gotta save that cheddah!
 

TimMcC

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You CAN run in the lowest hole with the Vikings, but it will take more work and more testing to get the shock settings dialed in. Adding more anti-squat should make the car faster, assuming you have everything else set up properly.

You would have to check with Shaftmasters regarding the LCA position/pinion angle. Dropping to the lowest hole shouldn't change the pinion angle very much, but some DS manufacturers have certain operating angle, rear u-joint/CV, and wheel base specifications that they'd like to you to use to avoid damaging the DS. For example, DSS requires a certain length between their pinion flange adapter and the DS to avoid damaging the CV joint.

Thank you. I'm just going to order an adjustable upper and mount to ensure I have the proper DS angle. Shaftmasters specifies -2.
 

chvyeter

new motor almost finished
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Just want to say I love my BMR drag springs I installed. More BMR parts will be coming soon.
 

chvyeter

new motor almost finished
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I haven't found any issue so far but wondering if I should trim some of the bump stops in the rear after installing the BMR drag springs?
 

BMR Tech 2

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Glad to hear you're enjoying your BMR stuff! I do recommend trimming the rear bump stops with our springs. Trimming the top tier should be all it takes.
 

TimMcC

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I would start around 6-8C and 9-11R and adjust accordingly.

For the LCA brackets, you can run them lower with the Vikings, you'll just have to up your rebound settings a couple clicks.

Improved on my 1/8th time from 6.64 at 108 to a PB of 6.44 at 110 mph also knocked .14 off my 60'. Went from 1.58 to 1.44. Need an ARB and some more fine tuning.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Lifting%20a%20wheel_zpswywfki4i.jpg
 

BMR Tech 2

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Improved on my 1/8th time from 6.64 at 108 to a PB of 6.44 at 110 mph also knocked .14 off my 60'. Went from 1.58 to 1.44. Need an ARB and some more fine tuning.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Lifting%20a%20wheel_zpswywfki4i.jpg

Excellent, glad to hear everything is working for you!

Great pic, I hope you gave that Camaro a chance to check out your taillights!
 

chvyeter

new motor almost finished
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For a daily driver that sees some track time what upper and lower control arms do you recommend? Wasn't sure if poly/spherical, just poly or all spherical ends is better?
 

NacsMXer

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Lowered on BMR springs, are adjustable sway bar end links and/or a bump steer kit necessary for a street driven car?

Here is what my tie rod angles look like in relation to the front LCA, they actually look pretty level:

Driver Side
ab3v36.jpg


Passenger Side
2m2dnpj.jpg
 

BMR Tech 2

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I typically don't recommend bump steer kits to people because I don't think they're really necessary with mild drop springs, like ours. It's not likely to make a big difference in how the car performs.

Adjustable end links are also not necessary, but would allow you to adjust the bar so that it's neutral, with no preload.
 

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