Suspension Tech: Bring It!

[king_13]

What's needed to properly lower the car?

I have springs, an adjustable PHB, and will be buying everything I need to put on when I get back from a training event.

I've read about people using 05-10 struts due to being compatible with the GT500 strut mounts, is there a real benefit to going this route?


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[BMR Tech 2]

It's factory on 13-14 GT500's. I went and ordered the adjustable UCA on a recommendation from a shop. Thanks for info and your time


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Happy to help!

What's needed to properly lower the car?

I have springs, an adjustable PHB, and will be buying everything I need to put on when I get back from a training event.

I've read about people using 05-10 struts due to being compatible with the GT500 strut mounts, is there a real benefit to going this route?


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Really all you need is a PHR and springs, but I recommend doing relocation brackets at the same time. If you have the cash, it's not a bad idea to do shocks and struts as well. It saves you from doing the work twice.

05-10 style mounts are stronger than 11-14 mounts and are less prone to failure, IMO. 11-14 seem to give people a ton more trouble than the GT500 or 05-10 style strut mounts.

 

[king_13]

Really all you need is a PHR and springs, but I recommend doing relocation brackets at the same time. If you have the cash, it's not a bad idea to do shocks and struts as well. It saves you from doing the work twice.

05-10 style mounts are stronger than 11-14 mounts and are less prone to failure, IMO. 11-14 seem to give people a ton more trouble than the GT500 or 05-10 style strut mounts.

Awesome, I figured there needed to be a reason.

Relo brackets + LCAs will work? I still have the stock 2 piece DS so the pinion angle should be good correct?

I'm using BMR 1 inch lowering springs by the way.


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[BMR Tech 2]

Awesome, I figured there needed to be a reason.

Relo brackets + LCAs will work? I still have the stock 2 piece DS so the pinion angle should be good correct?

I'm using BMR 1 inch lowering springs by the way.


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LCAs and relos will work, if you've got the cash to knock them out at the same time, I say go for it! Pinion angle will change when you lower the car, but stock DS aren't as sensitive to PA changes as aftermarket driveshafts.

 

[chvyeter]

Looking online there is a upper control arm with spherical ends one is for $319 one is $259. What is the differences other than the price?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

The model year that it applies to. The 11-14 UCA is the more expensive UCA, and is overall a higher quality piece. The UCA has a longer length for more stability, a larger bearing, and improved reinforcement on the axle side. You could drop a nuke on that UCA and still run it.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

I had to run out the door to class yesterday, but I grabbed some pics for you today. UTCA033 vs UTCA020, both are great pieces, but you can definitely see how much more robust the UTCA033 is compared to the UTCA020.

 

[t660]

I've got a question that you might be able to help me with.

A few months ago I installed LCAs on my 2011. Within the past few days my car has started to feel kinda loose in the rear. I can't really explain it well, but slight movement on the highway can cause it to feel like there's a little movement in the rear. Any ideas of what this could be/what I need to upgrade?

Took a look at all the suspension components back there and everything looked okay, but I'm not even sure what I'm looking for.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

I've got a question that you might be able to help me with.

A few months ago I installed LCAs on my 2011. Within the past few days my car has started to feel kinda loose in the rear. I can't really explain it well, but slight movement on the highway can cause it to feel like there's a little movement in the rear. Any ideas of what this could be/what I need to upgrade?

Took a look at all the suspension components back there and everything looked okay, but I'm not even sure what I'm looking for.

I would check the bolts to make sure they are still tight and haven't backed off at all. You may also want to remove the LCAs and inspect the bushings for cold flow or play. With how new those LCAs are, I would be surprised if something was wrong with them, but it's not outside the realm of possibility.

 

[chvyeter]

I need some drag springs

 

[chvyeter]

Any discount codes for BMR parts?

 

[noldevin]

Any discount codes for BMR parts?

That is not tech >_>

 

[chvyeter]

That is not tech >_>

Neither is you correcting me on the page. You could've messaged me instead to correct my ignorance.

 

[noldevin]

Neither is you correcting me on the page. You could've messaged me instead to correct my ignorance.

There's also a discount code in the OP.

 

[Riddick]

I noticed BMR offers several adjustable panhard bars. Which one do you recommend for a street car dropped a little over an inch on Koni STR2's? Car might see the strip a couple times a year but my main objective with this car is to keep it streetable and keep the ride as smooth as possible with little to no NVH.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

I noticed BMR offers several adjustable panhard bars. Which one do you recommend for a street car dropped a little over an inch on Koni STR2's? Car might see the strip a couple times a year but my main objective with this car is to keep it streetable and keep the ride as smooth as possible with little to no NVH.

PHR006 all the things!

I don't like rod-ended bars for anything other than track only cars. They are NOISY! PHR006 is nice and quiet and does exactly what you need it to. Alternatively, the PHR013 is a good choice as well if you want a bearing but don't want clunks. Poly one end and bearing on the other helps to keep the bearing indexed and QUIET!

 

[NacsMXer]

Last year, Kelly made this post about relieving the tension on factory rubber bushings after lowering:

Hey guys, just a friendly reminder (or tip) I wanted to share.

When you guys drop your cars down, please loosen all of the suspension pivot point bolts (WHERE THERE IS RUBBER - Poly/Bearings do not apply) and re-torque them at ride height.

I know, I know....it can be a pain in the ass, but it WILL help your suspension pieces live a longer and better performing life.

In case you do not know, or do not want to figure it out, loosen the following pieces and re-torque when changing the ride-height of your S197.

Front:
FLCA to K-Member bolts

Rear:
RLCA Bolts, Front and Rear Mounts
Panhard Bar Ends, L/R sides
UCA to UCA Mount Bolt
UCA to Diff Bolt


I just finished lowering the front of my 2014 on BMR SP009's, but did not yet loosen and re-torque the FLCA to K-Member bolts that Kelly mentioned. Would this be an absolute necessity to re-torque? Is this referring to the single forward pivot bolt for the front lower control arm on each side? #2 in this Ford Service Manual diagram?

The service manual doesn't mention anything about torquing the 2 rear hydro bushing bolts and nuts with the suspension loaded. Just to tighten them while the vehicle is still supported on a lift. So assume I only need to torque the single front pivot bolt when loaded? Thanks again!

 

[BMR Tech 2]

You would probably be fine to not touch them at all (most people never do), but the right thing to do is to loosen and retorque all the bonded bushings at ride height.

 

[NacsMXer]

You would probably be fine to not touch them at all (most people never do), but the right thing to do is to loosen and retorque all the bonded bushings at ride height.

So you think with the drop of the SP009 springs, the front LCA bushing would still be within a tolerable range if I didn't touch it? And would it just concern that front bolt, #2 in the diagram above?

Thank you again for your reply!

 

[TimMcC]

Looking for a quick baseline setting for new Warrior shocks on my car.

Has TCA019, PHR013, SP068, CAB005 and Viking Warriors.

Best 60' on stock springs, TCA019, PHR013 and stock shocks is 1.58

Just added SP068 and Viking Warriors. Car is on 275 ET Pro and makes 700+. Best 1/8 is 6.64 at 108.

What's a starting point with the Vikings at the track? Also, middle hole for relocation brackets?

Thanks for your time.