Mobil 1 Extended Performance VS Regular 10w-30 Any Real Differences?

[oldmodman]

Mobil 1 Regular Synthetic and the Extended Performance Synthetic. Both are 10w-30

Anyone know if there is any difference other than the labeling?

I have gone to their website and there is no real info, just adspeak.

Could the increased price have something to do with the advertised oil warranty of 15,000 miles?

The available spec sheets on both oils are nearly identical. Differing only in the viscosity and pour point. Any special elements in the more expensive extended version.

I am only using this in my old DD, the 92 Ford Explorer with 95K on it. And I change it every 4K.

 

[black92]

Myself, I used 5W-20 regular synthetic in my Explorer that had 212,000 miles on it and it ran like a champ before I sold it. I do the same with the wife's Milan and will also do the same with my MKS.

 

[SID297]

IIRK M1 EP uses Group V base stock, and the regular uses a Group III/IV blend. It's something like that.

 

[RedRocketMike]

They don't fully disclose the differences. The additive packs are very similar, TBN is higher, but not alot. Base stock is probably a little better. Definitely not a 15k oil. Running 4,000 miles you are changing way too early regardless of what oil you run.

 

[oldmodman]

Running 4,000 miles you are changing way too early regardless of what oil you run.

I kind of agree. But what if that is every 24 months? :dw::lol1:

 

[RedRocketMike]

I kind of agree. But what if that is every 24 months? :dw::lol1:

Two years seems to be about as long as people on the main oil forum will leave it in the crankcase for low mileage applications. In that case you are fine. Fun fact; M1 10w30 is noticeably thinner at operating temp than 5w30 and 0w30 Mobil 1.

 

[SID297]

I kind of agree. But what if that is every 24 months? :dw::lol1:

I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[01cobravortech]

Two years seems to be about as long as people on the main oil forum will leave it in the crankcase for low mileage applications. In that case you are fine. Fun fact; M1 10w30 is noticeably thinner at operating temp than 5w30 and 0w30 Mobil 1.

Its actually pretty impressive you can leave it in there for 2yrs.

Where are you getting your 'fun facts' though? And what does it mean to be 'noticeably thinner' and how are you substantiating claims like that? I see a lot of this kind of language getting thrown around in oil threads in many forums, but I never see anyone make a case to validate those bold claims and assertions.

I'm a facts guy. I like data and I'm willing to hear out the arguments.

 

[Gene K]

Read the Product Data Sheet!

10W30 is almost 10% thinner at 100C (212F) so its going to be thinner when draining hot oil.

That said HTHS is a better indicator of how oil will act in the bearings and effect oil pressure. My guess is 10W30 would have higher oil pressure and higher Dynamic Viscosity after 500 mi when most permanent shearing has taken place. Indicators from the PDS point to it being more shear stable with fewer VII and it barely behind 5W30 in HTHS as it is.

 

[sonic_whine2003]

Just curious where did you read that it's okay to leave oil in for 2 years on cars/trucks that only get driven periodically? From everything i learned from my ASE mechanic grandfather.....even if not driven much oil pulls moisture and i was taught needs replaced after 12 months.

 

[sonic_whine2003]

Also even if the oil is okay for 2years.....How well will a oil filter hold up with out internal break down(usally made of a paper element inside) If you go with a royal purple like oil filter with the synthetic filter internals then maybe. But is it worth the risk..for me its a NO!

 

[SID297]

Just curious where did you read that it's okay to leave oil in for 2 years on cars/trucks that only get driven periodically? From everything i learned from my ASE mechanic grandfather.....even if not driven much oil pulls moisture and i was taught needs replaced after 12 months.

The oil itself does not attract or absorb moisture. The moisture is the byproduct of the combustion process and atmospheric condensation. It can be alleviated by bringing the engine up to full operating temperature occasionally.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

M1 vs. M1EP - EP has a better base oil, which will allow for a longer oil change interval.
2 years in the sump, sure....it's possible. I have a bypass filter system on my Ram Truck (gas burner) and will not consider changing it the first 18 months. I change the oil filter every year, and the bypass filter every other year.

 

[Gene K]

Just curious where did you read that it's okay to leave oil in for 2 years on cars/trucks that only get driven periodically? From everything i learned from my ASE mechanic grandfather.....even if not driven much oil pulls moisture and i was taught needs replaced after 12 months.

Ive seen a UOA on factory fill (Mobil 1) on a Porsche Water Cooled Flat Six (12.0 Qt Capacity) that was 4 years old with 15,000 mi and it was still in excellent shape. In my opinion its a bit of a sliding scale. An oil that will go 15,000 miles in 1 year might go 10,000 miles in 2 years. If it is low mileage because its a short trip commuter the oil needs to be changed sooner than a weekend toy that gets 30 miles minimum every time it gets out.