Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.

Corbic

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Howdy All!

Well a few weeks ago I began working with Hi-End to acquire a Terminator they had listed. Someone else beat me to the punch! It was a black, SRA converted 2.2 KB 03 Coupe. Exactly to the letter what I wanted. Oh well, right? Well the buyer backed out two weeks later. Rob contacted me and I was sold.

Car arrived Monday. ERMAGAWWWD!

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35K Miles, list of mods.
 

Corbic

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So,

I've driven the car two days now. Once on Monday. Skipped Tuesday because of rain, and again today. I stopped at the gas station after work to fill up. I had put 64 miles on the car since Monday. Leaving, I immediately smelled coolant. I stopped to take a look since I'm hyper paranoid.

[video=youtube;6YyI8mToY1c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YyI8mToY1c[/video]

After just a minute or two.. ..

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Luckily the car was nice. It broke down at a retirement community. It was 90-degrees but the place caught the breeze just right. I was able to sit under a nice gazebo while waiting for the tow truck.

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So, Day 3!

It's already late, so I'll be pulling it apart tomorrow. When I stopped I did leave the key on to drive the interior fans with the heat on. Try and pull all the heat out as fast as possible. The car's stock heat gauge never got "hot" nor past half-way. I did notice while the car was sitting their (key on) the fans where not running. Another curiosity I was going to call Fastlane Motorsports about was the fuel pressure. It seemed to hover around 25psi and never get much past 40psi. I've searched but found nothing conclusive.

A tuner-friend stated a car should be at 40psi idle and +80psi at WOT. Then again he prefaced that as a return style system. He's never messed with Fords nor return-less.


Thoughts and Suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
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JuStAkId

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If they fans stopped working that would cause it to over heat really fast especially in 90* weather. I Would check to see if the fans are working correctly (if possiable check to see when they are adjusted to come on) . From there I would get a 170 t-stat (stock one might be stuck doubtful but I would upgrade anyways) Then from there I would burp the coolant system to make sure there is no air in the system. If its still doing it after that you have something worse going on. As far as fuel pressure base (idle) should be about 39psi then for every psi of boost it should go up one psi. So if you are running 20psi of boost at wot your fuel pressure should be right around 59psi
 

Corbic

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If they fans stopped working that would cause it to over heat really fast especially in 90* weather. I Would check to see if the fans are working correctly (if possiable check to see when they are adjusted to come on) . From there I would get a 170 t-stat (stock one might be stuck doubtful but I would upgrade anyways) Then from there I would burp the coolant system to make sure there is no air in the system. If its still doing it after that you have something worse going on.

I'll do that. Recommendations on a Radiator? I suspect this one is toast since it looks like it was boiling out from the seams. I notice AM/LMR all only sell GT/MACH/99/01 radiators. 03/04 appear to be thicker from the factory... but aftermarket are they all the same?

How accurate is the factory temp gauge? I'm hoping I caught this before anything happened to the valves or headgasket.

As far as fuel pressure base (idle) should be about 39psi then for every psi of boost it should go up one psi. So if you are running 20psi of boost at wot your fuel pressure should be right around 59psi

That is what Jason was saying. He was skeptical if the gauge is accurate or even working correctly. They car ran and drove fine. I already ordered an AEM wide-band yesterday.
 

tones_RS3

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Congrats on the nice Terminator! Looks really clean and mean.
Hopefully you can get it all sorted out quickly and enjoy it. Good luck!
 

RichM1983

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I realize you just got the car and haven't put many miles on it and that something like this is unexpected and causes a big reaction but the motor will be fine. It couldn't have got that hot because you said the gauge never went above the middle. Plus looking at all the coolant that came out your cooling system and made it on the ground the system had plenty of coolant in it when you stopped. It looked to me like the radiator just gave up and coolant was coming out of the crack. Replace it and fill the system the proper way, burp it, and then check to make sure your t-stat is good and that the fans come actually work. Then move on and enjoy the car.
 

Rich'sTRsvt

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If your fuel system is still returnless then the base pressure at idle is 40psi minus vacuum, so if you have an aftermarket gauge it will show somewhere between 25 and 28psi. If your gauge is hooked up to the ecu it accounts for this and will read about 40psi.
 

BlksvtCobra01

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Congrats on the purchase. Looks clean hope it's a simple fix for ya.


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Corbic

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Ordered a Mishimoto from AM. 2 Day was only $25. JEGS only offered Champion or Flex-a-Lite. Two extremes.

Import guys love the Mishimotos, and they have a life time warranty.

Hopefully it's here by Saturday. Get it running for Saturday Night mayhem.
 

2003cobra22

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Ordered a Mishimoto from AM. 2 Day was only $25. JEGS only offered Champion or Flex-a-Lite. Two extremes.

Import guys love the Mishimotos, and they have a life time warranty.

Hopefully it's here by Saturday. Get it running for Saturday Night mayhem.

Nice car just sold my 10th Anni. black coupe miss it:(
If possible get the factory radiator repaired its a better piece due to its 1.5" core the after market radiators have 2" cores that are too thick and don't allow the airflow needed for additional cooling, and the mounting brackets Iv heard can be a pain
 

Corbic

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Nice car just sold my 10th Anni. black coupe miss it:(
If possible get the factory radiator repaired its a better piece due to its 1.5" core the after market radiators have 2" cores that are too thick and don't allow the airflow needed for additional cooling, and the mounting brackets Iv heard can be a pain

I have no idea where to take it for repair.
 

2003cobra22

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As mentioned above pick up the Reische 170 thermostat and flush and burp the system.. draining it then filling with garden hose water and detergent (burp it drive it for a day), then draining it again and flushing the system with garden hose water to get the detergent out, then draining it again a few times and refilling with distilled water to get the hose water out and finally adding your coolant, you'll never get all the hose water out but after a few times refilling it'll be mostly distilled water in there. it can be a time consuming process but its vital to ensuring your engines health.

http://www.reischeperformance.com/refill.html
 
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c6zhombre

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So no precheck on that car before you bought it? Previous buyer backs out? 2.2 kb heat furnace making 21psi on pump gas? Solid axle? Man that's a ton of red flags. I would have definitely demanded an independent check of that car plus a compression test.....then a good datalog and retune if necessary (600 plus on a 2.2 KB is pretty ragged edge)

Good luck I hope it's a simple fix
 

Corbic

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So no precheck on that car before you bought it? Previous buyer backs out? 2.2 kb heat furnace making 21psi on pump gas? Solid axle? Man that's a ton of red flags. I would have definitely demanded an independent check of that car plus a compression test.....then a good datalog and retune if necessary (600 plus on a 2.2 KB is pretty ragged edge)

Good luck I hope it's a simple fix

Considering HI-Ends reputation as well as Fastlane Motorsports, I wasn't too worried.

Previous buyer backed out because the rear fenders are trimmed. He ended up buying the 100% stock car with 9k miles Robert had.


Also,

This thread lead me to believe 590-625 was pretty much the norm for a 2.2 on 91/93. We have and I use 93 here.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?761407-Kenne-Bell-2-2-Dyno-Numbers-List
 
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