1985 GT build thread.

suicidekings

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I think LMR has a packaging issue of either not checking or just resending returned parts. I order FRPP plug wires for my 96 and when I got them I pulled 1 out to compare it to a stock wire and found it to be for a 2V and not a 4V, nevermind the fact I ordered blue wires and was sent red. Looks like the engine bay will turn out nice, reshooting it exterior color or different?

Yeah, I let them know that I understand mistakes happen and they normally are quick to get me new parts out asap but the fact of the matter is its getting a little old when every single shipment I received has had a mistake the past 3 orders. The sales manager is going to give me a call today to sort it out.

Love the build dude!

Whats with the "dialing in of the bellhousing''? Never seen that before.

Thanks man! Love the look of your 12 BTW.

Dialing it in is simply putting a feeler gauge on the back side of the crank and measuring it against the hole in the back side of the bellhousing. This is to ensure that the bellhousing is centered properly on the rear of the engine. Mine was down .010" so I had to order offset dowels, they come in sizes of .007", .014", and .021". Using the .007" will bring me to .003" which is in spec, which is .005".

Under normal conditions you probably could get away with being out as far as I was however it puts additional strain on the input shaft and makes shifting at 7K RPM a little more difficult.
 

94Gt5.0

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Yeah, I let them know that I understand mistakes happen and they normally are quick to get me new parts out asap but the fact of the matter is its getting a little old when every single shipment I received has had a mistake the past 3 orders. The sales manager is going to give me a call today to sort it out.



Thanks man! Love the look of your 12 BTW.

Dialing it in is simply putting a feeler gauge on the back side of the crank and measuring it against the hole in the back side of the bellhousing. This is to ensure that the bellhousing is centered properly on the rear of the engine. Mine was down .010" so I had to order offset dowels, they come in sizes of .007", .014", and .021". Using the .007" will bring me to .003" which is in spec, which is .005".

Under normal conditions you probably could get away with being out as far as I was however it puts additional strain on the input shaft and makes shifting at 7K RPM a little more difficult.

Thanks bud! And that's good to know, gonna be putting together a new setup in my 94 soon and Ill be keeping this in mind now!
 

suicidekings

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Thanks bud! And that's good to know, gonna be putting together a new setup in my 94 soon and Ill be keeping this in mind now!

No problem. If you need any assistance feel free to reach out to me.


I began laying down some body filler...... after 20 minutes I quickly realized I am not a body man. Now time to debate how to proceed. I fear if I dont get the hang of it quickly I will end up creating a mess that someone else will need to fix. :nonono:
 

94Gt5.0

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Filler work is nice because if you F up..just sand it back down lol. I shaved my bay a few years back and probably had ~50hrs in it to get it right. Not sure what you're using for filler, but go to a local body shop and pick up "icing", it's a lightweight filler that comes in a white soft tube, super good to work with and sands out nice.
 

suicidekings

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I have been dreading the body work and the holidays kinda slowed things down. My goal is paint before 2016 so I started last night. Its official, I hate sanding.....

D636822A-8D3A-497C-8834-756E89C7E861_zps0x5wrsmh by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
806A1E2B-61DE-406E-80D2-9A288C45A996_zpsmit9s0yk by |SK Photography|, on Flickr


Filler work is nice because if you F up..just sand it back down lol. I shaved my bay a few years back and probably had ~50hrs in it to get it right. Not sure what you're using for filler, but go to a local body shop and pick up "icing", it's a lightweight filler that comes in a white soft tube, super good to work with and sands out nice.

I have the finishing glaze for a lot of the small parts and there is a thicker stuff called "rage ultra" that im using in the areas it will be a bit thicker (closer to 1/8th inch or a bit more). But yeah, its a lot of sand, build up, sand, build up, sand, build up.

I am learning as I go and have my painter come over from time to time to show me tips and things to help me along. I am excited.
 
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suicidekings

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Well, I have become completely discouraged with the body work. Its very difficult to admit defeat however in something I want perfection in I can't take the risk in doing an amateur job on this. So, I had a local shop come out and quote me on finishing the body work, and spraying the entire front clip... I was really impressed because I was showing him areas where pieces would be that would cover up what is showing now so he didn't have to worry about it be a perfect finish. He had noted its easiest to finish it as if everything is visible. The shop knows Foxbodies as well as they have done many of them including the harder to source parts for SVO mustangs. So thats leads me to where I am now, he noted it would be easiest for him to maneuver the car if it had the rear end in.... So now I unwrapped the car and started doing work on the rear end and fuel system.

With the rear end out the quad shock brackets were done away with...

639FCD07-97EC-4269-9ECF-7DA6BBB9FC33_zpszfwwpwzx by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
DA38FA51-29EE-45E9-8748-1BF34AEACDA2_zpszr9eyyoy by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Since I purchased a torque arm I removed the upper control arm bushings

60B46C33-0B09-43C4-AFF2-59C8496C8835_zpshz5rolvw by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

I ordered a new rear end girdle with bearing cap set screws, and while this is off I will be replacing the 4.10 gears with a set of 3.55's.

Next up was to remove the fuel tank.

8A1406EF-5A90-4A60-827B-EEA3C9C9A7FF_zps9kfstpga by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

I will be doing a weld in sump and external Aeromotive A1000 pump, 100 micron aeromotive filter pre pump, and 40 micron aeromotive filter after pump. -10AN lines feeding, -8AN lines for the return line.

I want to utilize the factory feed line to act as the return line, this way I can reuse the factory fuel level sending unit etc.

91152A96-8E61-4D0F-BB65-786090F03875_zpsyfmlgwrb by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
3ED18ADC-7CD2-4458-B78E-669F9EF844EC_zpstdh4goh2 by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

I have about a month and a half until the shop can take my car in so I need to just get the rear end back in the car, get the torque arm tack welded in so it will roll, I can worry about position later to get the pinion angle correct. For now there will be some reassembly which is a step in the right direction and I'm pretty optimistic. This probably puts my completion time line to about May or June 2016.... That would put the build just over a year long. Not bad for what started as just a 5 lug swap and suspension upgrades LOL.
 
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Dig Race

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It's looking good. These things always start small... I started a cam swap and somehow ended up with a 331 lol
 

suicidekings

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Couple more updates.

Ordered some fuel system goodies.

B5EEEF62-0833-4400-BC90-937E4FFCB801_zpsvm4ov0q6 by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
A4823327-AD55-47A2-BA66-000858AFC27F_zpsziqnjz1i by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
1143BC62-1344-437B-9D00-653466A14EF8_zpsilvwtwvr by |SK Photography|, on Flickr


Aeromotive pump and filters, lot of AN fittings and 10AN feed line, 8AN return line.
Little disappointed the sump had surface rusting already. Again, another LMR piece....

42B47DAB-597C-45B2-B881-3AA8AF69FAB9_zpswvdppxwf by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Got a new rear end girdle too.
3E1D9F9B-B1F9-4F4F-9605-889F2EE6B658_zpsvtds1wdt by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Rear end ready to be torn into. I figured since it was out I might as well clean it up, and swap out the 4.10's since I will have plenty of power and don't need to compensate with gears. Going to 3.55's.
64389E7B-90BF-471D-9C76-B86D113576F9_zpscpgunnlx by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Everything is out. of the rear.
0DDBDC38-B363-4C72-B70A-1E790E5B42A8_zps974ug5rk by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
0AD64F85-1CC5-4D18-BFA5-9905E8D53EEE_zpssrivvpr3 by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

My pile of parts is becoming overwhelming... this is about 80% of it all....
016D7289-9740-4588-91B9-5175527813AE_zpshbz9h598 by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

I started to paint a few pieces... I like the coating that Maximum motorsports puts on their stuff and there are certain things I cannot powder coat so this is the closest I can get.... VHT wrinkle coat.
84EC1DF6-E59D-4B95-97E0-32625A277D53_zpsi76exxdi by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
2366ACB4-8637-4C0E-B10F-0A09C713759A_zpsofkj0yyg by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Hope you all enjoy!
 
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suicidekings

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I still need to bake the items to cure the paint and tighten the wrinkle but I'm hesitant because it will stink up the house. Been thinking about a free oven from craigslist. The rear end stand is pretty chincy but what can you expect for 50 bucks from JEGS. It makes working on it easy.
 

Dig Race

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I might just spend $50 and get one. Free oven is a good idea, I'm getting ready to get one setup to do some powder coating
 

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